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How do you reset the 'Brake Service' warning after changing pads and sensor?
My dash last week showed 'Brake Service visit workshop', I had already replaced the rear pads in the summer so I checked the front pads and could see they were worn down and needed to be replaced. Bought some Brembo pads and a new Bosch wear pad sensor and fitted them (so easy by the way !). I could see that the old sensor had been worn to trigger the dash warning so fitted the new sensor. However despite changing for new sensor the dash warning is still there. I know the sensor is good as if I change this for another one that I had the message remains. Also if I do not push the sensor all the way into the plug then I get a second error on the dash stating the 'Wear pad sensor' so I know I have plugged it in correctly.
I have tried the reset by pressing the gas pedal for 10 secs with the key on then switching it off and removing the key but no joy (unless I am doing this wrong?)
Anyone know how to reset the dash message?
P.S whilst I had the wheel off I decided to paint the calipers with new decals and also changed a track rod arm as it was worn.
I don't think there's such a thing. The brake service light comes on because of the sensor, not because you reached a certain number of miles or days of use.
I don't think there's such a thing. The brake service light comes on because of the sensor, not because you reached a certain number of miles or days of use.
Sorry, all my text seemed to be missing I have re-posted.
Did you deactivate SBC when servicing the brakes? If not, you're going to need SDS to reset this. It's not a problem with the wear sensor.
I don't know how to deactivate SBC, it was still working despite the brake wear dash light? I'm puzzled at why you need to deactivate this anyway as all I needed was to change the pads? I didn't do anything different when I changed my rear pads with no issues in the sunset o?
You need a code reader capable of plugging in and clearing the code. I’ve used an iCarsoft i980 for this, works a treat for clearing codes. If you’re anyway near Northwich you’re welcome to pop by
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
MB gets very nervous about working on the pads without deactivating SBC. WIS states the system can bite your fingers or dislodge pistons if you make a mistake.
@A1EK you need to read up on SBC. The R230's brakes use pressure generated by an electric pump and activated by an electronic control module instead pressure from a pedal-activated master cylinder with vacuum boost. SBC will routinely pulse the brakes to check pd thickness so that it can pre-position them closer to the rotors for better emergency response.
it will also pulse them when the wipers are on to help keep the rotors dry in the rain. This presents two issues. One is that SBC can compress the wheel cylinders at any time, even with the ignition switched off, and that presents some risk of damage to you or the brakes if this happens during the service. Two, SBC needs to be re calibrated when new pads or rotors are installed so it can know the distance between them. SDS is used to do this. There is also a manual deactivation method, but I am not certain that it re-calibrates:
After reading the entire deactivation instructions, it would appear that it can be done without the SDS. The instructions clearly state that IF you plan on working on the hydraulic unit, then you need to disable the SBC with the SDS. However, pad, rotor and parking brake replacements can be done without the SDS, by manually disabling the SBS by following the 1 ~ 6 sequence of steps.
Additionally, steps 7 ~ 13 (Activate Application routine for Brake pads), should re-activate the SBC, and start the "self calibration" routine, and if successful, it's indicated by the turn signals flashing 3 times.
I think this kind of makes sense, that they would offer a means to replace brake pads even for "normal" tire and brake shops that are not likely to have an SDS handy, but probably have a printout of these routines, in case someone with a SBC based Merc comes in for brakes.
You need a code reader capable of plugging in and clearing the code. I’ve used an iCarsoft i980 for this, works a treat for clearing codes. If you’re anyway near Northwich you’re welcome to pop by
Thanks Matk, I drive all over the UK so may take you up on the offer ! always good to meet fellow SL people !
This may be a good excuse to buy a iCarsoft device too !
Thanks
After reading the entire deactivation instructions, it would appear that it can be done without the SDS. The instructions clearly state that IF you plan on working on the hydraulic unit, then you need to disable the SBC with the SDS. However, pad, rotor and parking brake replacements can be done without the SDS, by manually disabling the SBS by following the 1 ~ 6 sequence of steps.
Additionally, steps 7 ~ 13 (Activate Application routine for Brake pads), should re-activate the SBC, and start the "self calibration" routine, and if successful, it's indicated by the turn signals flashing 3 times.
I think this kind of makes sense, that they would offer a means to replace brake pads even for "normal" tire and brake shops that are not likely to have an SDS handy, but probably have a printout of these routines, in case someone with a SBC based Merc comes in for brakes.
so now that I have changed the pads, how do I know that the pads are being self calibrated etc? Can I take Matk advice and just clear the brake wear sensor fault?
so now that I have changed the pads, how do I know that the pads are being self calibrated etc? Can I take Matk advice and just clear the brake wear sensor fault?
Well, since you've already installed the pads without going through the procedure, what I would do, is follow the instruction from the beginning, exactly as described (read everything first thoroughly):
Basically, deactivate the SBC, as described in steps 1 ~6, then wait a few minutes (this is where you would have done the pad replacement), then start going through the reactivation steps (steps 7 ~13). If everything is done correctly, then it should reactivate and re-calibrate. You'll know you did it correctly if the turn signal flashes 3 times after you completed step 11.
Well, since you've already installed the pads without going through the procedure, what I would do, is follow the instruction from the beginning, exactly as described (read everything first thoroughly):
Basically, deactivate the SBC, as described in steps 1 ~6, then wait a few minutes (this is where you would have done the pad replacement), then start going through the reactivation steps (steps 7 ~13). If everything is done correctly, then it should reactivate and re-calibrate. You'll know you did it correctly if the turn signal flashes 3 times after you completed step 11.
Thanks Dudeman
I will try that out !
P.S. I have also just bought myself a Christmas present and got the iCarsoft CR V2.0 ! I can use it on the wifes Range Rover and VW too !
I was just about to write you a nasty reply, but I see you corrected your post. I guess you went past the first page of the PDF.
Anyway, I found that those iCarsoft models that cover multiple makes are not very complete. I have the iCarsoft MBII, and it's designed for the Mercedes specific subsystems. Check your model, select Mercedes-Bez, then select your car model and check if you have SBC, ABC subsystem tests. If not, it's not complete. Moreover, it will probably give you generic OBD codes, rather than Mercedes specific DTC codes.
Another thing to consider, is that devices like iCarsoft and such, will not perform some of the Mercedes specific tasks like a ABC rodeo for example or disabling the SBC in your case. They can give you an idea of what's wrong, by virtue of the DTCs, and it can clear the faults, and even give you live data, but it won't enable any of the car's self diagnostics, or perform unique tasks. For that you will need a DAS/SDS.
I was just about to write you a nasty reply, but I see you corrected your post. I guess you went past the first page of the PDF.
Anyway, I found that those iCarsoft models that cover multiple makes are not very complete. I have the iCarsoft MBII, and it's designed for the Mercedes specific subsystems. Check your model, select Mercedes-Bez, then select your car model and check if you have SBC, ABC subsystem tests. If not, it's not complete. Moreover, it will probably give you generic OBD codes, rather than Mercedes specific DTC codes.
Another thing to consider, is that devices like iCarsoft and such, will not perform some of the Mercedes specific tasks like a ABC rodeo for example or disabling the SBC in your case. They can give you an idea of what's wrong, by virtue of the DTCs, and it can clear the faults, and even give you live data, but it won't enable any of the car's self diagnostics, or perform unique tasks. For that you will need a DAS/SDS.
P.s. remember people like me often read these posts on their phones and easy to miss important links etc.
One question, I wonder if I have to test the opposite side wheels as mercedes instructions are always left hand drive, they seem to not bother covering all countries that use right hand drive, which is most of SE ASIA, Australia, Japan etc...
P.s. remember people like me often read these posts on their phones and easy to miss important links etc.
One question, I wonder if I have to test the opposite side wheels as mercedes instructions are always left hand drive, they seem to not bother covering all countries that use right hand drive, which is most of SE ASIA, Australia, Japan etc...
Personally I don't think it matters, and if you do it on the left or right and the light doesn't flash, then all you need to do is restart the reactivation procedure from step 7 and spin the wheel on the other side.
Nothing in the SBC activation/deactivation is LHD/RDH specific, so no worries there. Just heed the instructions about lowering the windows and switching on the ignition without opening the door - that is a key step because opening the door activates a CAN bus wake-yup signal that can start the SBC pump before it system reset.
As for tests that are left./right specific, they do usually indicate "left or "right" side instead of "drive" or "passenger". Left/right is always he same, regardless of which side the steering wheel is mounted. If it does say "driver's side" then it would be specific to whichever side the steering wheel is mounted. For example, the subwoofer and 722.6 TCU is always mounted on the passenger side floorboard, so LHD will be on the right, RHD it will be on the left.
I was just about to write you a nasty reply, but I see you corrected your post. I guess you went past the first page of the PDF.
Anyway, I found that those iCarsoft models that cover multiple makes are not very complete. I have the iCarsoft MBII, and it's designed for the Mercedes specific subsystems. Check your model, select Mercedes-Bez, then select your car model and check if you have SBC, ABC subsystem tests. If not, it's not complete. Moreover, it will probably give you generic OBD codes, rather than Mercedes specific DTC codes.
Another thing to consider, is that devices like iCarsoft and such, will not perform some of the Mercedes specific tasks like a ABC rodeo for example or disabling the SBC in your case. They can give you an idea of what's wrong, by virtue of the DTCs, and it can clear the faults, and even give you live data, but it won't enable any of the car's self diagnostics, or perform unique tasks. For that you will need a DAS/SDS.
Totally agree, I’m not recommending iCarsoft as an alternative to Star but it is available for £80 or so and I’ve found it invaluable as a code resetter and basic diagnostics. For example the yellow plug under my driver seat was intermittently generating a fault. Diagnosed in seconds, rectified and fault cleared in a matter of minutes.
Totally agree, I’m not recommending iCarsoft as an alternative to Star but it is available for £80 or so and I’ve found it invaluable as a code resetter and basic diagnostics. For example the yellow plug under my driver seat was intermittently generating a fault. Diagnosed in seconds, rectified and fault cleared in a matter of minutes.
Nothing in the SBC activation/deactivation is LHD/RDH specific, so no worries there. Just heed the instructions about lowering the windows and switching on the ignition without opening the door - that is a key step because opening the door activates a CAN bus wake-yup signal that can start the SBC pump before it system reset.
As for tests that are left./right specific, they do usually indicate "left or "right" side instead of "drive" or "passenger". Left/right is always he same, regardless of which side the steering wheel is mounted. If it does say "driver's side" then it would be specific to whichever side the steering wheel is mounted. For example, the subwoofer and 722.6 TCU is always mounted on the passenger side floorboard, so LHD will be on the right, RHD it will be on the left.
Okay so I tried to procedure today but no joy. Everything was straight forward but I cannot work out how to rotate the rear wheels?
In summary if you follow the steps from the procedure:
Raise Vehicle so wheels are free (I raised one side front and back on jacks.)
Open drivers window
Turn off all electrics, remove key
close door lock for 30 secs
Unlock for 15 secs (brake pedal must not be pressed from now on)
Lock vehicle wait 15+ secs (then carry out brake pad replacement etc)
Unlock vehicle
Switch on ignition through window to position 2
Switch off ignition, wait 1 - 5 secs then switch back on position 2
Rotate rear wheel.How if the car is in PARK?, you cannot press brake as stated in step 5!!?
Rotate front wheel swiftly and evenly in running direction 1 -2 revolutions (observe 3 flashing lights) No lights flashed for me
Have I missed something here? How do I rotate the rear wheels without pressing the brake and moving the gear shift?
Okay so I tried to procedure today but no joy. Everything was straight forward but I cannot work out how to rotate the rear wheels?
In summary if you follow the steps from the procedure:
Raise Vehicle so wheels are free (I raised one side front and back on jacks.)
Open drivers window
Turn off all electrics, remove key
close door lock for 30 secs
Unlock for 15 secs (brake pedal must not be pressed from now on)
Lock vehicle wait 15+ secs (then carry out brake pad replacement etc)
Unlock vehicle
Switch on ignition through window to position 2
Switch off ignition, wait 1 - 5 secs then switch back on position 2
Rotate rear wheel.How if the car is in PARK?, you cannot press brake as stated in step 5!!?
Rotate front wheel swiftly and evenly in running direction 1 -2 revolutions (observe 3 flashing lights) No lights flashed for me
Have I missed something here? How do I rotate the rear wheels without pressing the brake and moving the gear shift?
thttps://youtu.be/4B3wX5-cYng hanks
I'll take a stab at this.
This procedure is intended to have ALL 4 wheels off the ground (use stands, or crates or something). When you place a car in PARK (P), it doesn't block the wheels, it blocks the transmission, which locks your drive shaft in place. However, because your drive shaft is connected to the rear wheels through a differential, the wheels can still be turned, it's just that when you turn one wheel in one direction, the other wheel turns in the opposite direction. But if one wheel is blocked, the you won't be able to turn the opposite one. Does this make sense?
So, in your case, since one half of the car had the wheels on the ground, you couldn't turn the rear wheel.
How if the car is in PARK?, you cannot press brake as stated in step 5!!?
Step 5 states "(brake pedal must not be pressed from now on)"
This procedure is intended to have ALL 4 wheels off the ground (use stands, or crates or something). When you place a car in PARK (P), it doesn't block the wheels, it blocks the transmission, which locks your drive shaft in place. However, because your drive shaft is connected to the rear wheels through a differential, the wheels can still be turned, it's just that when you turn one wheel in one direction, the other wheel turns in the opposite direction. But if one wheel is blocked, the you won't be able to turn the opposite one. Does this make sense?
So, in your case, since one half of the car had the wheels on the ground, you couldn't turn the rear wheel.
How if the car is in PARK?, you cannot press brake as stated in step 5!!?
Step 5 states "(brake pedal must not be pressed from now on)"
im currently in asda car park in level ground to try again !
So with all the wheels off the ground I can now turn the rear wheels thanks. I did the procedure about 5 times but it didn't change anything unfortunately.
I believe I have followed the procedure correct as when I turn the rear wheel and front wheel they automatically brake after a couple of turns, then release etc, however I did not get the three tail light flashes to indicate it was successful.
The only thing I can tell you is to carefully read the entire procedure, and make sure you follow the timing correctly. If you miss the timing, it won't work. Start from the beginning, and follow all the steps as described. Read the little sections market with an "I" as those are important pieces of information. I'm sure you'll get it right.
Totally agree, I’m not recommending iCarsoft as an alternative to Star but it is available for £80 or so and I’ve found it invaluable as a code resetter and basic diagnostics. For example the yellow plug under my driver seat was intermittently generating a fault. Diagnosed in seconds, rectified and fault cleared in a matter of minutes.
So I got my icarsoft and tried to clear the service warning light, but it didnt work sadly. I ran the test and it advised that all was good and the results came back even on all pads.. Tried to clear any historic faults but no joy.
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