SL-Class (R230) 2003 -- 2012: Discussion on the SL500, SL550, SL600

SL/R230: How to remove the rear R230 struts easily within minutes - instructions

Old May 8, 2023 | 11:29 AM
  #51  
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removal of bolts and arm behind the wheel hub and fighting with pry bars to lower the arm out of the hub, and to put the arm back into the hub and into the rubber bushing which seems impossible to align.
This part can't be overstressed. It's why you definitely don't want to remove the lower control arm bolt at the hub. On the hub there is a pressed in bushing on the side of the hub towards the front of the car, that sicks out 1 -2mm. 1 -2mm might not seem like much, but there is also a metal bushing through the center of the rubber bushing on the lower control arm where it connects to the hub. THAT is the reason why it seems impossible to install the lower control arm onto the hub. Fact of the matter is it should be impossible because the only way the lower control arm can be installed onto the hub is if that metal bushing is NOT protruding out by 1-2mm. So if you are able to install the lower control arm onto the hub then it means that that metal bushing has been previous pressed out, or more likely, it was filed back to allow the control arm to be refitted after someone else fought relentlessly trying to refit the lower control arm at the hub.
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Old Jan 25, 2024 | 07:59 PM
  #52  
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How do I disconnect the ride height sensor arm to lower strut out?

Ive found this entire thread to be super useful! Thanks again to all of the contributors!! I am in the process of installing 4 new struts (Arnott), starting with the driver side rear. I too ran into the exhaust interference issue on my 03 SL500. Followed the posts closely, so not sure what the diff with my vehicle vs the OP.

FWIW, I ended up removing the 2 rear hangers near the rear wheels and the 2 forward most bolts of the rear diagonal supports. I then placed a 1 inch thick piece of plywood between the support and the body mount point and then used a wood clamp to pull the exhaust down snug to the diagonal. This barely gave me enough wiggle room to get that blasted bolt out - but alas, its out!!

Now I feel like the hardest part is done - but Im stuck on a small but important step. How do I disconnect the ride height sensor arm so I can lower the strut out? I tried removing the nuts but everything just spins and I dont see an interior nut to counter that. Im thinking perhaps the arm should just unsnap, but not having any luck with that either and dont want to break it if thats not the case.

Appreciate any help/input! Thanks!!

UPDATE: I ended up just removing the 2 screw that attach the sensor to the chassis and unplugging the electrical connection. Easy peasy …

Last edited by bdeweese; Jan 28, 2024 at 03:03 PM.
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Old Jan 28, 2024 | 03:17 PM
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Ok - So I’ve lowered the rear lower control arm (from the subframe end) and successfully removed the old strut. However, the rear lower control arm end that’s still attached to the hub seems “sloppy”. The rubber bushing appears intact, but doesn’t seem like there should be that much play there? Does it feel “loose” simply because it’s hanging down on this pivot point, or is it indication of a failed bushing? The car only has 45k miles on it - but is also 20 yrs old.

I know the process of removing and reinstalling this connection point has been described as a PITA - but since I’m this deep into it, Im wondering if it’s something I should delve into? I have already removed the caliper and rotor, since I’m also doing a brake job.

Anyone have any advice on this? Thank you!!!

Last edited by bdeweese; Jan 28, 2024 at 03:24 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2024 | 10:39 AM
  #54  
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That is actually a cylindrical ball joint. It should allow some fore/aft movement, but shouldn't have any play.
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Old Jan 30, 2024 | 03:54 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by MikeJ65
That is actually a cylindrical ball joint. It should allow some fore/aft movement, but shouldn't have any play.
Thanks for your feedback. Here’s a video clip of what’s going on. When it’s up in its normal position there’s much less movement. Just not sure if what I’m seeing is normal. The rubber looks good on both sides … (Note - the scraping sound you hear in the clip is just interference from below with the arm as I’m moving it around).

Also, the bolt has already been removed.
Attached Files
File Type: mov
IMG_0864.mov (18.59 MB, 41 views)

Last edited by bdeweese; Jan 30, 2024 at 04:26 PM.
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Old Jan 31, 2024 | 08:07 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by jruerph
At the 11 minute mark he mentions the exhaust being in the way and requiring pushed up with the jack to acquire clearance for bolt removal. Looks like I'm going to have the same issue with my 2005 SL55

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8yNSj3kOj4
So this looks a lot easier than dropping the exhaust. Is it okay to just force it up an inch or so to clear the screw? I’ve just been fighting for a week with pulling the front struts - finally got them off and replaced with Coilovers.

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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 01:10 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Wrighteous
So this looks a lot easier than dropping the exhaust. Is it okay to just force it up an inch or so to clear the screw? I’ve just been fighting for a week with pulling the front struts - finally got them off and replaced with Coilovers.
I ended up removing the 2 rear exhaust hangers near the rear wheels and the 2 forward most bolts of the rear diagonal supports. I then placed a 1 inch thick piece of plywood between the support and the body mount point and then used a wood clamp to pull the exhaust down snug to the diagonal. This barely gave me enough wiggle room to get that blasted bolt out - but alas, its out!!
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