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As always, thank you for your help in advance, I sincerely appreciate the minds on this forum.
Here's my latest problem: After replacing the rear ABC valve block with a new OEM part and the right rear strut, I'm getting a "royal flush" of 8 fault codes, sequentially C1343 thru 1350. One set of 4 fault codes for each wheel indicating "strut control valve not present" and the other set of 4 for each wheel indicating the "blocking valve not present".
Did I forget to reconnect something?
I have access to a DAS to assist me,
I got the car running well, and the ABC system is almost stable except that I suspect the front accumulator is beginning to fail. I get a too-frequent red "Drive Carefully!" alarm.
All of those faults you show are "Stored". Unless you know differently, they may have occurred during Obama's first term in office. So I recommend running a Quick Test followed by deleting all codes.
Star Diagnosis can test them for you. I'd have to look for the procedure that I posted a couple of years ago.
All of those faults you show are "Stored". Unless you know differently, they may have occurred during Obama's first term in office. So I recommend running a Quick Test followed by deleting all codes.
Star Diagnosis can test them for you. I'd have to look for the procedure that I posted a couple of years ago.
Hi Bob, that screenshot was from my car, not the OP. I got these faults right after reinstalling my valve blocks and my pump failed almost immediately thereafter.
I‘m fairly sure I allowed the fluid level to get too low (not empty), which surprisingly causes some bizarre things to happen in my experience. The pump seems to suck in air even if there is still some fluid in the reservoir...which eventually leads to a total loss of pressure.
Hi Bob, that screenshot was from my car, not the OP.
Well now that you mention it that was a silly mistake. So the OP has most of those faults, and if they are current, then he should double-click on each one and follow the troubleshooting laid out by DAS which includes actuating each ABC control valve from the PC.
My faults were also stored, although they were recent as I cleared faults before I began the aforementioned valve and strut work.
The faults could have tripped during my work, as I had pieces strewn everywhere over the past two weeks...So I cleared faults and will see if they trip again.
Question on diagnosing bad accumulators:
I get a frequent, albeit momentary, red Drive Carefully! warning when traveling above 45 mph.
My ABC fluid was about 1 inch below the cold-check level after topping it up after my work, so I’m worried fluid is filling up in the accumulators. Filled it up and when I checked the fluid level hot, it was about 1.5 inches above the hot-check mark.
If I may impose, does any of the above give you pause? And what is the best DAS test to run to check accumulators?
If I understood all of the facts I might make sense of the reservoir levels.
Testing the accumulators is easy. The following tests the front and rear accumulators; I presume it does not test the return accumulator found on MY2006 and earlier cars.
Within the ABC menu go to Troubleshooting by means of complaints or symptoms > Handling characteristics > Vehicle damping too soft or spongy handling characteristics > Pressure change during pressure release. The instructions then follow.
bobterry99, sivikvtec, Thank you. My apologies for the delay in responding but my job got in the way of my hobby. Quite frustrating.
Ran the test and the results are below. I need a sanity check on how to interpret the DAS system’s output. The readout indicates the test was okay but the actual value displayed (1 bar) is less than the specified reference value of 20-80 bar. Mind you, the engine is off during this test and the actual value is continually declining as a result.
Im assuming its okay but am pointing down the third base line for a check.
The readout indicates the test was okay but the actual value displayed (1 bar) is less than the specified reference value of 20-80 bar.
It's been more than a year since I tested accumulators. I'll guess that pressure you see is a live number and the pressure was higher when the accumulators were evaluated.
Even though the accumulators passed the test, I think one or both of them are underperforming and are the cause of the message. At any rate, replacing the accumulators is optional at this time.
Yea I’ve had the rear valve block out a few times and I’ve learned the easiest way to get it out is to first open then bleed screws at both rear wheels and then use the Mercedes tool
to undo the four hoses at the valve block at the quick connect fittings.
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Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
