SL/R230: Trunk Lid Will Not Lower and Close Right Side during Roof Opening or Closing
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2004 SL500AMG, 2003 SL500 USA
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Hi guys:
Why won’t my trunk lid close all the way on the right side? When I open the roof, the right side of the trunk lid stays up a few inches. When I close the roof, the roof will not shut all the way latched at the windshield; and the right side of the trunk lid stays up 2-4 inches.
Why won’t my trunk lid close all the way on the right side? When I open the roof, the right side of the trunk lid stays up a few inches. When I close the roof, the roof will not shut all the way latched at the windshield; and the right side of the trunk lid stays up 2-4 inches.
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2004 SL500AMG, 2003 SL500 USA
I pried the right hook over to come down on the roller by the right side trunk cylinder. Now the trunk lid goes down.
I earlier closed the roof when it was out of alignment. The front left black latch post that goes into the hole in the latch on the upper windshield became bent. I straightened the black post, got it to latch, and there were some loud sounds like something broke or banged hard. I now have to insert an allen key into the hand latch manual close hole in the front center of the headliner to completely close the top.
Also the trunk lid will not start on its downward path while operating the vario roof without a push. Then it closes down normally now.
The roof was opening and closing properly a few days ago.
I earlier closed the roof when it was out of alignment. The front left black latch post that goes into the hole in the latch on the upper windshield became bent. I straightened the black post, got it to latch, and there were some loud sounds like something broke or banged hard. I now have to insert an allen key into the hand latch manual close hole in the front center of the headliner to completely close the top.
Also the trunk lid will not start on its downward path while operating the vario roof without a push. Then it closes down normally now.
The roof was opening and closing properly a few days ago.
#6
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Have a look at that upper right trunk cylinder. You can pull the liner back a bit and stick your hand up in there under the cylinder and see if there is oil there. Could be a leak at that cylinder.
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2004 SL500AMG, 2003 SL500 USA
Two years ago I worked on a car with this same issue. Every motion of the roof was flawless, yet for the lid to close it required a little nudge to get it started.
During this time the roll bar was extremely slow to operate. After repeated cycles it gradually improved, and once the roll bar moved normally the issue with the trunk lid disappeared. It would seem air in an hydraulic circuit may have been affecting both somehow.
In regard to leaks, I wouldn't overlook the possibility that a cylinder is worn and allowing oil to pass around its piston seal. Sort of like an engine with extremely low compression. I've seen a post which described removing some hydraulic lines at the valve block to check for cylinders worn this way. I could probably find that post with a bit of effort if you decide you want to check.
During this time the roll bar was extremely slow to operate. After repeated cycles it gradually improved, and once the roll bar moved normally the issue with the trunk lid disappeared. It would seem air in an hydraulic circuit may have been affecting both somehow.
In regard to leaks, I wouldn't overlook the possibility that a cylinder is worn and allowing oil to pass around its piston seal. Sort of like an engine with extremely low compression. I've seen a post which described removing some hydraulic lines at the valve block to check for cylinders worn this way. I could probably find that post with a bit of effort if you decide you want to check.
Now, otherwise the roof/top open and close cycles work completely including the front roof latches closing without using the allen key.
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2004 SL500AMG, 2003 SL500 USA
I kept spraying lubricant into the pivot points for the trunk lid lowering many times; and it has dropped down several times on its own.
I released pressure at the hydraulic pump; lubricated the front latches, and all pivot points in the top and trunk. I cleared whatever DTCs appeared. I tightened bolts.
I had already replaced the (5) rear trunk and roof cylinders with Top Hydraulics rebuilds. I previously replaced the o-ring in the front latch cylinder. I hope it will continue to work properly without touching the remaining roll bar, load assist, or lock pawl cylinders.
I wonder if some pivot point, points, cylinder, latch, etc. was or were sticking causing the top mechanism to distort or mis-align.
I released pressure at the hydraulic pump; lubricated the front latches, and all pivot points in the top and trunk. I cleared whatever DTCs appeared. I tightened bolts.
I had already replaced the (5) rear trunk and roof cylinders with Top Hydraulics rebuilds. I previously replaced the o-ring in the front latch cylinder. I hope it will continue to work properly without touching the remaining roll bar, load assist, or lock pawl cylinders.
I wonder if some pivot point, points, cylinder, latch, etc. was or were sticking causing the top mechanism to distort or mis-align.