SL-Class (R230) 2003 -- 2012: Discussion on the SL500, SL550, SL600

SL/R230: Trunk Lid Will Not Lower and Close Right Side during Roof Opening or Closing

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Old Sep 9, 2020 | 11:57 AM
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Question Trunk Lid Will Not Lower and Close Right Side during Roof Opening or Closing

Hi guys:
Why won’t my trunk lid close all the way on the right side? When I open the roof, the right side of the trunk lid stays up a few inches. When I close the roof, the roof will not shut all the way latched at the windshield; and the right side of the trunk lid stays up 2-4 inches.
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Old Sep 9, 2020 | 02:34 PM
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It's the leading edge of the trunk lid that stays raised about 4 inches.
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Old Sep 9, 2020 | 04:44 PM
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2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
Two faults with probably one cause. Perhaps lack of hydraulic pressure. Is the oil level in the pump okay?
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Old Sep 9, 2020 | 05:54 PM
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I topped off the oil. It was at the bottom diamond. What 2 faults?
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Old Sep 9, 2020 | 06:22 PM
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I pried the right hook over to come down on the roller by the right side trunk cylinder. Now the trunk lid goes down.

I earlier closed the roof when it was out of alignment. The front left black latch post that goes into the hole in the latch on the upper windshield became bent. I straightened the black post, got it to latch, and there were some loud sounds like something broke or banged hard. I now have to insert an allen key into the hand latch manual close hole in the front center of the headliner to completely close the top.

Also the trunk lid will not start on its downward path while operating the vario roof without a push. Then it closes down normally now.
The roof was opening and closing properly a few days ago.
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Old Sep 10, 2020 | 04:11 AM
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Have a look at that upper right trunk cylinder. You can pull the liner back a bit and stick your hand up in there under the cylinder and see if there is oil there. Could be a leak at that cylinder.
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Old Sep 10, 2020 | 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by aegea
I topped off the oil. It was at the bottom diamond. What 2 faults?
Sorry, I just referred to [1] your trunk lid and and [2] roof not closing properly.
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Old Sep 10, 2020 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by S_F_Taylor
I've seen a post which described removing some hydraulic lines at the valve block to check for cylinders worn this way. I could probably find that post with a bit of effort if you decide you want to check.
I seem to recall that post was by bobterry
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Old Sep 10, 2020 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by S_F_Taylor
Two years ago I worked on a car with this same issue. Every motion of the roof was flawless, yet for the lid to close it required a little nudge to get it started.

During this time the roll bar was extremely slow to operate. After repeated cycles it gradually improved, and once the roll bar moved normally the issue with the trunk lid disappeared. It would seem air in an hydraulic circuit may have been affecting both somehow.

In regard to leaks, I wouldn't overlook the possibility that a cylinder is worn and allowing oil to pass around its piston seal. Sort of like an engine with extremely low compression. I've seen a post which described removing some hydraulic lines at the valve block to check for cylinders worn this way. I could probably find that post with a bit of effort if you decide you want to check.
It is down to the trunk lid not dropping down without a push by hand on the roof closing cycle. I have a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) that says the roll bar limit switch is not communicating or its cable is broken. The roll bar moves slowly; but goes up and down.
Now, otherwise the roof/top open and close cycles work completely including the front roof latches closing without using the allen key.
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Old Sep 10, 2020 | 09:37 PM
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I kept spraying lubricant into the pivot points for the trunk lid lowering many times; and it has dropped down several times on its own.

I released pressure at the hydraulic pump; lubricated the front latches, and all pivot points in the top and trunk. I cleared whatever DTCs appeared. I tightened bolts.

I had already replaced the (5) rear trunk and roof cylinders with Top Hydraulics rebuilds. I previously replaced the o-ring in the front latch cylinder. I hope it will continue to work properly without touching the remaining roll bar, load assist, or lock pawl cylinders.
I wonder if some pivot point, points, cylinder, latch, etc. was or were sticking causing the top mechanism to distort or mis-align.
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