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My trunk soft close stopped working . The trunk latches but will not pull close tight and I have the red warning light on my dash indicating the trunk is not closed.
Is this something that's an easy fix and can anyone tell me what parts I would need ?
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
Originally Posted by Das Geld 2
Until then slam the trunk hard
Not a safe advice. As said above, you might crack the 3rd brake light. Which will then leak water. You’ve got a pneumatic leak in your lock now; you don’t want water ruining electric parts in the same. Besides, water in the trunk is nasty business, with lots of expensive tech residing down there.
Lol not unless you want to start replacing the centre brake light as well.
Car drives fine with soft close not working, just carry on until it’s fixed (although the roof won’t open until it’s fixed either)
Originally Posted by Frederick NL
Not a safe advice. As said above, you might crack the 3rd brake light. Which will then leak water. You’ve got a pneumatic leak in your lock now; you don’t want water ruining electric parts in the same. Besides, water in the trunk is nasty business, with lots of expensive tech residing down there.
Apologies- Read it on another thread! Good to know! I've been slamming it since my pump started leaking this summer. I guess I will stop or let you know the outcome of this
Last edited by Das Geld 2; 09-25-2020 at 09:10 PM.
You can either fix yourself with a gorilla glue tube, a beer and couple hours of work, if not in a hurry, or replace the entire part with a brand new one. When mine wasn't working, the part was $300 at the dealer
I did look at the DIY fix post and I really admire you folks with that kind of patience and I would have loved to fix this for $5 but for $350 the part cost me and took all of 30 minutes to install I took the easy and expensive way out ! I already knew how to drop down the trunk lid liner since I had to replace the leaky brake light last year. Thank you all for the reply's I found the "slamming the trunk lid down" especially helpful (Yes I know better!) While at the dealer I picked up a few of those little grey retaining clips that keep the lid liner in place since you always end up breaking at least one when you pull it down.
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
Right. So now you can glue up those ports and cracks whenever you feel you have the time for it. And pass it on to the next victim of this flawed design. And you will have set up an relay you can proudly name after your good self. Span the nation it shall, as plastic piece after plastic piece shall give up the fight against pressure and time.
EDITED: "Until then slam the trunk hard"- apologies read it on another thread
Nice one for editing It’s a classic case of a rumour starts and then spreads, the facts of the matter are that no amount of slamming will get the boot/trunk lid to do the final close. Anyone needs proof just open the lid and trip the lock mechanism by pushing a screwdriver on the latch. You’ll see that the final “second stage” close that the pump activates, is more of a circular latch motion with an eccentric movement. No amount of vertical external pressure on the lid will engage it.
To anyone out there who is experiencing this same problem (I am) and is considering the replacement route rather than the repair (I am) I just found brand new part (A 230 750 01 85) on line @ mercedespartscenter.com for $258.72.
When I got my SL I didn't know it had a soft close trunk lid. Since it wasn't working I routinely closed it by slamming it shut and yes it did close all the way. When I read about this feature I fixed the latch and now it works perfectly but from what I can see it doesn't pull it down any further than when I closed it manually.
When I got my SL I didn't know it had a soft close trunk lid. Since it wasn't working I routinely closed it by slamming it shut and yes it did close all the way. When I read about this feature I fixed the latch and now it works perfectly but from what I can see it doesn't pull it down any further than when I closed it manually.
If you really want to learn just follow my advice above and trip the catch with a screwdriver, you’ll see the difference very clearly.
Nice one for editing It’s a classic case of a rumour starts and then spreads, the facts of the matter are that no amount of slamming will get the boot/trunk lid to do the final close. Anyone needs proof just open the lid and trip the lock mechanism by pushing a screwdriver on the latch. You’ll see that the final “second stage” close that the pump activates, is more of a circular latch motion with an eccentric movement. No amount of vertical external pressure on the lid will engage it.
Well if I slam it lightly it doesn't full close and there is still a trunk gap..are you talking about that?
When the above happens I need to reopen and reslam
If I use more force I place hands on both sides spread across the surface area and use medium force it closes fully.
It's like 2 stages as you mention. and the roof operates and everything.
With that said, I should fix my trunk if this will damage the brake light. :Y
Yes--if you close it manually it will first latch on the secondary spot which is not fully closed. If you give it a healthy slam it will close all the way down to the same position that the power pull down does.
My trunk soft close stopped working . The trunk latches but will not pull close tight and I have the red warning light on my dash indicating the trunk is not closed.
Is this something that's an easy fix and can anyone tell me what parts I would need ?
2007 550SL
Thank you in advance for any help
Ed
Went ahead and removed the trunk latch unit. Once you have it out, few drops of epoxy will fix it. I decided to fix instead of replace because
1: new unit may have the same problem down the road, especially in the Texas heat. A big blob of Epoxy is almost permanent
2: take the same effort to install new one
09-24-2020, 04:14 PM
