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Hi folks. I’ve been hearing good things about QuickJack and am seriously considering a 5K lb. version. Anyone have experiences with their R230 and other cars? Thanks in advance!
The quality isn’t great, I’ve had to deal with some leaks and it still raises unevenly even after replacing several parts under warranty. Now, the handset periodically doesn’t work.
But it’s good enough, especially considering the price.
I have one and the quality has been great. I use it on my Aston Martin, Jaguar, C7 Corvette, MGB but.....I have not tried it on the SL500. All of the cars that I have used it on, aside from the MGB, require special lifting blocks but again, I do not know about the Mercedes. I have been hoping to hear something from someone that has used it as to if it needs special handling. As far as the Quickjack goes, it works fine and does what it is supposed to do. It is a bit on the heavy side but then again, I am 123 years old.
I am more than thankful for this thread as I am hoping to gain some insight as to how to use the Quickjack with my 2003 Sl500.
Thanks!
Last edited by scotstern; Oct 18, 2020 at 03:55 PM.
I added some rubber pads, rotary brand FJ2427. They fit the quickjack frames perfectly. They are larger than the rubber blocks that come with the quickjack. I put these large pads on first and the stack one of the rubber blocks that came with the quickjack on top.
Thanks for the information. It is most helpful. It seems that finding information concerning the SL500 and Quickjacks is not easy. I would have thought that there would have been some input but if so, it is not easy to find.
If it is used correctly, it would be almost impossible for anything, other than a serious earthquake, to cause the jacks to fail. They are not dependent upon hydraulics to remain up as there are serious steel supports that are locked into place once the car is lifted. The only feasible issue would be if the car was raised with hydraulics and then not locked with the steel bars. In short, totally safe.
Exactly, those steel lockbars will hold up the car if the hydraulics fail. I’ve had my car up on the quickjack for weeks and one of the hydraulic cylinders compressed..but it didn’t matter because the lockbar was supporting the car at that point instead of the hydraulic cylinder.
I still put a few jack stands under the car if I’m going underneath it just to be safe.
I have a set and rate them highly. they lift the car high enough that working on suspension is not awful. You need to carefully place the rubber blocks to ensure the lifts are straight and on the lifting pads which is a bit of a nuisance. I have also lifted the blocks a couple of inches with a wooden spacer. I will likely some time cut a small insert into these wooden spacers with the correct placement for the r230 chassis. A couple of inches more really makes a difference when under the car. They cannot lift weight from completely flat so some clearance is always required whilst the jacks build pressure.
They are very heavy items and still take some setting up but they are much safer IMO than the jack setup I used to use and much easier to lower the car.
I looked at the quick jack but ended up with the Bendpak MD6XP. A bit pricier but a higher lift that allows me better access under the car. I had to buy pads for the jack points and when they are installed the car needs about a 1/2 inch lift to get them to fit under the jack points if that makes sense.
Good to know..did not know about the backup steel support
The steel lock bars are your primaries, not backups. The hydraulics themselves are not designed to support the weight of a vehicle over time.
As you are lifting, the cams on the bottom end of the support bars slide over lock points, each indicating a height you can set the vehicle at.
To secure it, you go slightly past the lock point you want to stop at and then 1) stop lifting 2) hit the button to lower 3) release the button once it locks into place.
Visual for reference:
QuickJacks, while no substitute for a proper lift, are a significant improvement over using a jack and stands...both in convenience and safety.
They are very robust, especially the heavier duty versions. Just RTFM before use.
The quality isn’t great, I’ve had to deal with some leaks and it still raises unevenly even after replacing several parts under warranty. Now, the handset periodically doesn’t work.
But it’s good enough, especially considering the price.
Do you place the Quickjack rubber blocks on bare metal of the car frame? Or is it okay to place the rubber blocks on the rocker panel fairing that wraps over the metal frame?
You should place the rubber blocks at the jack points on the car as those are reinforced specifically for jacking the car. Other points where the Quickjack goes might work, but can pose a risk I would not be willing to take.
I have the Quickjack 5000TL and jack the car at those jack points and it works great!
Do you place the Quickjack rubber blocks on bare metal of the car frame? Or is it okay to place the rubber blocks on the rocker panel fairing that wraps over the metal frame?
There are round black circular pads at the jack points on the sides of the car. You can see them easily if you look under the side skirts. If you don’t see them, they have fallen off and should be replaced.
I like my QuickJack and feel totally safe working under the car, but only when the stack of blocks are properly positioned. When the car is moving upward, it is also moving somewhat horizontally. This affects the blocks / spacers relative to the MB jack points. I purchased round spacers on Ebay and placed each one on a supplied block. I did not like the top spacer pushing up on the chassis covers. I then purchased 4 steel plates on Ebay to be placed on top so it contacts the jack point. Each plate is 1/4 " thick by 2.75" diameter steel so it just covers the round top spacer. This made the stack more robust and does not apply force to the chassis cover. Also, you absolutely must inspect the position of the cam plate that rotates on the end of the locking bar. Both sides must be in the same position to prevent a safety problem that occurs when one lock bar locks and the other side does not. This can happen! It happened to me and to others who posted on YouTube. My car came very close to sliding sideways off the lift. Now I know what to inspect.
In this photo, the full load of the car is not being supported. When it is loaded, the rubber blocks will compress.
Last edited by WurlitzBurg; Aug 29, 2022 at 04:24 PM.
I love mine,
Use them all the time (7000lb version). I like the portability and that I can stow the vertically, out of the way, and out of sight in the corner of my garage when I’m done with them. Like any other lift, careful setup and proper operation is key. Never had an issue, but I never treat lifting 4000lbs casually…
I’ve seen people drop cars on 2 post and even 4 post lifts due to unsafe conditions they created due to complacency.
Stay Safe
B06 AMG Brakes and 471 AMG LSD installed!
Last edited by crconsulting; Aug 31, 2022 at 02:26 AM.
Obviously it will depend on the car, but for that particular lift I use the tallest square pad the comes with the Quickjacks (see last image below)
Remember the R231’s have rectangular lift pads as pictured. I try to use as few blocks as possible to keep the stack as rigid as possible.
Last edited by crconsulting; Aug 31, 2022 at 11:36 AM.
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