SL-Class (R230) 2003 -- 2012: Discussion on the SL500, SL550, SL600

SL/R230: Side window quick down to clear seals when opening doors

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Old Dec 28, 2020 | 05:38 PM
  #1  
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From: Chandler, AZ
2003 SL500, 2016 ATS, 2016 CTS 2015 Volt
Side window quick down to clear seals when opening doors

Both my side windows no longer lower the glass to clear the seals when opening the doors. This make the windows scrape the seals when opening and keep the window from sealing when closing since they catch on the roof seals. It seams to be a mechanical issue since I can manually push the glass down about 1/2 inch and when the door closes the windows pup up as they should. Has anyone run into this and is this an integral pert of the regulator?
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Old Dec 28, 2020 | 06:02 PM
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2005 SL65 AMG
Try resetting the windows first. Press and hold both window switches until all four windows are down. Then continue pressing the switches down for a few seconds after that.
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 11:30 AM
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'03 SL55 Black, '03 SL500's Aegean, Mars Red, Tazanite, Alabaster, '11 S550 Flint Gray
The windows are normalized in the UP position, at least on the '03. Roll up and hold the switch for 1 second after they are closed. This function is dependent on the rear SAM, but if your fuel gauge is working you at least have power to that module.
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 12:28 PM
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From: Chandler, AZ
2003 SL500, 2016 ATS, 2016 CTS 2015 Volt
I have done the normalization routine and it didn't affect the quick down feature. I'm now convinced it is a mechanical issue. When I activate the door handle I can hear the regulator move as if opening the window but the glass doesn't move down--I can push it down about 1/2 inch so something has come loose. When I close the door, the glass moves back up like it is supposed to. Inevitably I know I will have to pull the door panels off to see what is going on but since both doors now have that problem I suspect I am not alone and wondering if anyone has experienced this before so I can hit the ground prepared for what winds up being broken or loose.
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Old Dec 30, 2020 | 03:36 AM
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2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
Pulling off the door panels takes a few minutes, there’s plenty how-to’s on this forum. It will give you first hand insight in your problem.
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Old Dec 30, 2020 | 10:46 AM
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Your description is the sign of a broken regulator (cable mechanism). I'm 99.9% sure that your window regulator has plastic parts that are broken. I've had to replace 2 already on my SL.
There is a plastic piece over the cable and spring tensioner that breaks as it gets brittle from age and in the heat. AZ is not your friend when it comes to plastics!

Pull the door cards and look in the bottom of the door for white plastic bits. If you find any, you need to replace the regulator.
With the door card off, you need to remove the glass (2 bolts), then remove the regulator mechanism (about 6 bolts including the electric motor).

Adjusting the window to fit correctly with the new regulator is the hardest part, and requires trial and error. The door card has to be temporarily hung to run the electrics.
There are a couple DIY posts on this. Here are the WIS for the process.

Attached Files
File Type: pdf
Remove front door lining.pdf (86.7 KB, 196 views)
File Type: pdf
Adjust front door window.pdf (99.5 KB, 246 views)
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Old Dec 30, 2020 | 04:20 PM
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From: Chandler, AZ
2003 SL500, 2016 ATS, 2016 CTS 2015 Volt
Yes--that makes total sense given the symptoms Thank You !
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Old Jan 1, 2021 | 06:52 AM
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2003 R230
Have this issue with the driver side. Please take photos as you repair and share. Thanks.
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Old Jan 1, 2021 | 11:53 AM
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Check this out...it walks you thru the steps:
Post if you run to problems.

Note that the white plastic parts near the spring on the window motor Mount is what breaks, creating slack in the regulator cable. With slack, the window will not retract the 1/2”.
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Old Jan 4, 2021 | 01:29 PM
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R230
Originally Posted by kbob999
Check this out...it walks you thru the steps: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lJ6zY83vVV0
Post if you run to problems.

Note that the white plastic parts near the spring on the window motor Mount is what breaks, creating slack in the regulator cable. With slack, the window will not retract the 1/2”.
The same thing happened to me last week, I tried the window sync and the fuse pull and the drivers window will not drop when opened. The first time it happened it was very cold and I did not use the car for a couple of days. When I started the car I noticed the battery convenience notice was showing on the dash, it went away after a minute or two. This may indicate that the window motor did not get any power as I opened the door. I think the next thing I should try is to disconnect the battery in order to reset the door controller.
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Old Jan 4, 2021 | 02:11 PM
  #11  
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From: Chandler, AZ
2003 SL500, 2016 ATS, 2016 CTS 2015 Volt
I do have slack in the window regulator so I'm sure that is my problem. I'll order a regulator and pull the door panel off in a few weeks.
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Old Jan 7, 2021 | 08:02 AM
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R230
How did you determine that there was slack in the regulator cable, is it that you can push the window down with no resistance to the drop down position.
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Old Jan 7, 2021 | 09:36 AM
  #13  
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From: Chandler, AZ
2003 SL500, 2016 ATS, 2016 CTS 2015 Volt
Yes--I can move the window up and down about 3/8 to 1/2 inch by hand if it is part way down
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Old Jan 7, 2021 | 10:18 AM
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R230
Thanks, I am going to wait until it gets a little warmer out. My Sl is a 05 with 113k
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