SL-Class (R230) 2003 -- 2012: Discussion on the SL500, SL550, SL600

SL/R230: Vario Roof Slow to Come Down - SL500

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Old Jan 5, 2021 | 08:01 PM
  #1  
Derek R's Avatar
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Vario Roof Slow to Come Down - SL500

Currently own an ‘03 SL 500 with 80k miles. Have an issue with the trunk coming up slowly ~1 minute. Everything else on the roof works properly and quickly. Checked the hydraulic pump in the trunk and it is full and I see no leaks anywhere. I’m having an issue where at times I pull back on convertible switch multiple times in order for the trunk to open. Any ideas what this could be?
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Old Jan 5, 2021 | 09:30 PM
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R230 2005 SL500, 1952 MGTD, 1973 MGB, 1998 ML320, 2002 X5
Originally Posted by Derek R
Currently own an ‘03 SL 500 with 80k miles. Have an issue with the trunk coming up slowly ~1 minute. Everything else on the roof works properly and quickly. Checked the hydraulic pump in the trunk and it is full and I see no leaks anywhere. I’m having an issue where at times I pull back on convertible switch multiple times in order for the trunk to open. Any ideas what this could be?
Based on what you described (...everything else works properly and quickly), I assume the pump is putting out enough pressure otherwise it will be slow during the whole deployment.

I will concentrate on the trunk opening. When handle was pulled initially, the leading edge of the trunk should unlock (almost right away) and comes up. Did yours do that? When you said 1 min, was it during the transition or was it during the initial unlock (Both lock cylinders have to be unlocked first)? If the opening time is mostly at the initial unlock, I would say your cylinders may have a internal or external leak. Also spend sometime to Lub all the hinge joints, It will reduce the friction.

My guess is your switch is still good. May be cleaning the contacts will help. You said something about pulling the switch multi time. My gut feeling is your switch is working but the locking cylinders are having a hard time to release it. Try to pull the handle once and hold it, don't do multi time and observe the trunk opening. Let me know what you find out.

When checking cylinders, best thing to do is look at the shaft where it came out from the cylinder housing. That's where the leak actually is.

Last edited by ml320x5; Jan 5, 2021 at 09:36 PM.
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Old Jan 5, 2021 | 09:36 PM
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Derek R's Avatar
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Originally Posted by ml320x5
Based on what you described (...everything else works properly and quickly), I assume the pump is putting out enough pressure otherwise it will be slow during the whole deployment.

I will concentrate on the trunk opening. When handle was pulled initially, the leading edge of the trunk should unlock (almost right away) and comes up. Did yours do that? When you said 1 min, was it during the transition or was it during the initial unlock (Both lock cylinders have to be unlocked first)? If the opening time is mostly at the initial unlock, I would say your cylinders may have a internal or external leak. Also spend sometime to Lub all the hinge joints, It will reduce the friction.

My guess is your switch is still good. May be cleaning the contacts will help. You said something about pulling the switch multi time. My gut feeling is your switch is working but the locking cylinders are having a hard time to release it. Try to pull the handle once and hold it, don't do multi time and observe the trunk opening. Let me know what you find out.
The trunk immediately unlocks after pulling the switch. ~1 minute from the time the trunk unlocks. It is only slow for the trunk to actually travel back until it gets to the point where it can fall vertically. The issue I run into when pulling the switch back is that when it reaches a certain amount of time just holding it while the trunk is slowly coming up, it will just stop moving, but when I pull it back again it will start going up slowly again.
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Old Jan 5, 2021 | 09:48 PM
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R230 2005 SL500, 1952 MGTD, 1973 MGB, 1998 ML320, 2002 X5
While you pulling the switch, can you hear the pump constantly running? Notice the tune of the motor, it may tells you something. So during the transition of the trunk is your main concern, correct?

My guess is either your lift cylinders(s) is leaking internal or external or something is binding. The lifting cylinders are hiding at the back. It's kind of hard to see. Again look at the shaft area for leakage. It doesn't take much leakage to slow it down.

The intermittent only happened during the trunk movement, everywhere else doesn't require multi touch?

Edit:Sorry I mixed up with R129 Tonneau cover lift cylinders. R230 should only have one lift cylinder!!!


Last edited by ml320x5; Jan 5, 2021 at 11:04 PM.
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Old Jan 6, 2021 | 03:14 AM
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The lift cilinder sits on the left. It could be leaking internally. To the right, there's a gas spring that is supposed to assist in lifting the lid. When that spring dies, the burden on the hydrayulic cilinder increases seriously. It is always a good idea.to replace the gas spring, easily done and they come cheap enough. Stabilus lift-o-mat SG303007 in Europe (Mercedes part no A2307500136). Here's one, and there's plenty other sellers of course.
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Old Jan 6, 2021 | 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Frederick NL
The lift cilinder sits on the left. It could be leaking internally. To the right, there's a gas spring that is supposed to assist in lifting the lid. When that spring dies, the burden on the hydrayulic cilinder increases seriously. It is always a good idea.to replace the gas spring, easily done and they come cheap enough. Stabilus lift-o-mat SG303007 in Europe (Mercedes part no A2307500136). Here's one, and there's plenty other sellers of course.

is the gas spring you mentioned behind any covering in the trunk?
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Old Jan 6, 2021 | 07:01 AM
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Yes. That would be the hard plastic rear trunk liner. The strut can be seen on the large picture, to the left, in this document.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
gas strut trunk lid.pdf (426.5 KB, 247 views)

Last edited by Frederick NL; Jan 6, 2021 at 07:34 AM.
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Old Jan 6, 2021 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Frederick NL
Yes. That would be the hard plastic rear trunk liner. The strut can be seen on the large picture, to the left, in this document.
Thanks, is it better to change that part with the trunk in the service position, strut extended or just open the trunk in normal position? I would think extended as it is under less tension.
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Old Jan 6, 2021 | 01:17 PM
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Change it while in the service position with the strut extended. Replacing that strut is a little known but very common and easy fix for the rear decklid lift portion of the process. For around $50, it will likely relieve a lot of lift pressure on the system.
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Old Jan 6, 2021 | 01:33 PM
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I replaced the strut in my 2005 car two years ago and it didn’t change things noticeably. Perhaps the strut had been replaced before, just wanted to make sure (while I was replacing the totally lame strut in the armrest).
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