I purchased my beloved 2003 SL500 new, it was love at first sight. Since then, I've had the following issues:

Been through 5 batteries that run the electronics.
The ABC hydraulics is leaking on the front passenger side.
Multiple of the 5 computers in the vehicle have gone bad over the years, at one time or another.
The electronics are a nightmare, one time, I pressed the brakes and nothing happened (it was one of the computers that went out.) Had to steer into the middle lane and use the hand break to stop. That was life or death scary.
Currently, the car sits in the garage as the electronics battery is dead, even though it's on a trickle charger.
The key to mechanically open the drivers door doesn't move so the door doesn't open. So I can't start the car.
It's been sitting in my garage for the last three years doing nothing, as every time I get it serviced, it's around $6,000 to fix everything and then it just breaks again.
The vehicle only has 30,000 miles on it and I love it but I hate it too. It's great when it runs, but it's frustrating more than it's not.
Purchased it new and am the original owner and would love to get rid of it but it cost so much to buy that I haven't gotten my moneys worth.
I don't know what to do with this thing. Super frustrated.

Sell as is?
Fix and sell?
Trade on a newer model at the dealership?

Open to ideas on what others have done.
Thanks!

 

Well, unfortunately, yours is not a unique story. I have four '03 SL500's at the moment. One was an insurance claim/auction, the other three were purchased in need of repair from owners that were just done putting money into them. The R230 is not a cheap car to maintain. It is a complex vehicle and very few mechanics, including Mercedes techs, truly understand some of the systems. Anyone who has to rely on professional mechanics to do most or all of the repair and maintenance work on these cars is going to spend a small fortune over the years. I would have to say that my advice to you would be to sell it and buy something that you can enjoy.

On the plus side, low mileage SL's are still worth significant money and I'm sure that yours with 30k miles was well cared for and is excellent physical condition. I think that it is too valuable to sell as is. At a minimum it needs to be running and driving, but it really needs to be pretty well sorted out to get its true value.

 

Back in 2014 and 2015, I was seriously interested in these amazing, but extremely (some would say overly) complex, vehicles. I read many pages of owner maintenance and driving experiences back at that time on this and other forums. At that time, mainly because there was no viable replacement for the trouble-prone and expensive to maintain hydraulic ABC suspension system, I decided to stay out of the R230 club. Early in 2020, a good friend of mine called me to see if I was interested in purchasing a nicely optioned one owner and immaculate 2004 SL600 from him. Because of my previous research, I told him I was only mildly interested in such a complicated super car, even though it was at an attractive price.

So I agreed to a test drive in early 2020; However, I was completely blown away by the ultra smooth twin turbo V12 power and the overall smoothness and sophistication of the car. Everything still worked, despite the electronics complexity and age of the car. The handling and ride was very nice, despite the significant weight of this car. So I quickly re-started my research to see if anything could be done to salvage the car in case the overly complex ABC suspension had a catastrophic (unaffordable to me) failure. Since there were now several different more traditional coilover, shock, and anti-swaybar and affordable replacements for the ABC suspension system, I decided to take a chance on the 2004 SL600. Another big factor (probably the deciding factor) in my purchase of the car was my recent discovery of a local and well-regarded factory trained in Germany mechanic who had over 40 years of Mercedes service experience and still worked on the cars himself. He interviewed me; I interviewed him; he checked out the SL600. Even though he told me he would not change out the ABC suspension for a conventional suspension system if it failed, as it was a critical feature of the car, I went ahead with my purchase. After almost a year of trouble-free and spirited driving through the local mountain roads in my area, I agree with my mechanic on the irreplaceability of the ABC system; only a really serious ABC failure ($$$) would cause me to go to a shocks/coilover/anti-swaybar suspension.

My advice to all prospective R230 owners on a moderate budget: 1. Most important: Do not purchase these cars unless you have a reasonably close and competent independent Mercedes mechanic or have the skills yourself to troubleshoot and do at least some of the required maintenance. 2. Don’t buy one of these cars with a number of unresolved electronics or suspension-related problems. 3. Make sure that your local mechanic is skilled enough and willing to operate one of the STAR or STAR-equivalent electronic diagnostic systems that are now available for less than $600 or so. See elsewhere in this and other Internet forums for comments and experience with these dealer-quality or near dealer-quality diagnostic systems. 4. Regardless of who the original purchaser is/was, the overly complex “brake by wire” stopping system is now warranted by MBUSA for a period of 25 years (BTW, congrats on your successful use of the handbrake in a potentially dangerous situation). 5. Drain and change the oil and filter with a good synthetic oil every 4-5,000 miles. 6. Change the Pentosin hydraulic fluid and filter (use a 3 micron filter) every 5 years. 7. Drain and change the transmission fluid every 5 years (lifetime transmission fluid is a Mercedes myth that will cost you). 8. Flush and change the brake fluid every 5 years or so. 9. My car is an occasional driver; I disconnect the trunk-mounted battery with a small battery disconnect switch, whenever I am not planning to drive it for several days. Otherwise, I would be concerned periodic computer issues, systems battery longevity and a Battery Control Module-induced trunk fire. 10. Don’t purchase one of these cars unless you have a garage or at least a carport. Water leaks (even small ones) are deadly to the complex electronics systems and multiple computers in these cars. 11. Don’t dismiss these cars just because of their complexity; drive one, you will likely be amazed when you drive one.

As to the specific questions from SLS: 1. If the car is located in Texas, you should be able to find a quality independent Mercedes mechanic and fix the issues before you sell it or decide to keep it. If you have an unresolved ABC issue, you will likely take a major hit on the sales price. Give us you general location and someone here should be able to steer you to a quality mechanic with R230/ABC experience. If the car is in HI, you may have a significant problem in finding an experienced independent mechanic. I would sell it as rust, sun and humidity will take its toll on the electronics and interior unless in a nice garage most of the time. If you can’t find an experienced Independent mechanic in your area (TX or HI), you should probably do a one time suspension fix and sell it. Check Arnott for replacement struts with a lifetime warranty. FCP Euro also has a lifetime warranty on suspension parts. 2. On the battery-eating and computer death issues, as noted above, I would install a battery disconnect switch. When stored in my garage, I leave my trunk slightly open, too. I have had no issues, but I drive the car at least once every three weeks or so. I don’t use a smart or trickle charger of any type on the systems battery, unless it is first disconnected from the car while connected to the charger. I agree with MikeJ65’s comments completely, too. Good luck and let us know what you decide to do.

 

The vehicle is in Lubbock, TX. You are right, driving the car is a thrill. Unfortunately, it has sat in the garage not running more than it has been running. I am the original owner, purchased it new.

I already had an independent mechanic replace the computer that controlled the brakes. So I could have taken it to the dealership instead and had it fixed for free? I think I spent $3-$4k on that repair.

When disconnecting the battery (in my case when changing batteries), the AC light always comes on making the AC inoperable. I took it to the dealership and they said it was the compressor and needed a $7,000 repair. I told them, this happens every time the batter goes dead. They wouldn't listen so I purchased the STAR software and computer, reset the light and of course, the AC worked fine. So I would have to hook up the STAR computer, ever time I used the disconnect switch. Thoughts?

The air vents are all sticky, any fixes?

Would love an SL600, what would be the oldest model year to have the least amount of issues? I feel like since my vehicle was the first year of the R230, that it had a lot of bugs.

Thank you for your detailed answers.

 

So what's an ABC repair run? I was going to Rodeo it myself, purchased two .3 micron filters, and enough pentos to fill twice. 1st time to filter and flush with new oil and filter to remove impurities, then drain, and fill with new oil again with 2nd new filter. Unfortunately, it is already leaking so the shards are probably throughout the ABS by now?

 

Do you know where your ABC leak is? The most likely at the front right is the strut. Front struts are pretty simple to change. You have to separate the bottom strut ball joint from the control arm and get the quick disconnect unhooked, but it comes out pretty easy. Normally it is a good time to do suspension work, but at 30k miles you might still be okay. Rebuilt struts are around $500/exchange. A minor strut leak is not going to contaminate your system.

I'm not sure exactly when the SBC agreement went into effect, but I believe that they did offer reimbursement for prior repairs. For $3-4k it wouldn't hurt to make a phone call or two.

I have not seen what you are describing with the A/C happen from low batteries. It will lock out under certain conditions, but should not do so from low voltage. Do you remember what codes were present?

Do you mean that the A/C vents are hard to move or that they are tacky from degrading plastic or something? I have not heard or seen any issues and they don't seem to break like BMW's like to do.

I don't think that your problems stem from first year production. The US didn't get the first cars off of the line and most of the problems you have described are pretty common among all R230's. Early ABC might be less reliable, but the M113/722.6 is the most reliable, lowest maintenance powertrain you can get. The only issue that I think is '03 MY specific is the fuel tank baffle problem. If you want a higher performance version and like the pre facelift style, I would recommend an '07 or '08 SL55 over an SL600. Yeah, you don't get the V12 sound, but if an SL500 has you pulling hair out, the last thing you need is an SL600.

 

First of all, get a Xentry install from BenzNinja. He will help you getting your car into shape, with all that can be done through the computer.
Secondly he can point out what and where you have to do repairs, give you sparepart numbers, enable you to buy second hand parts on Ebay, etc.
The car is not lost, just need some TLC, and once you have car up and running again, you won't want to sell it, for sure.
Many of the problems / repairs you describe, I have already done through the years, and I would say that most ppl. can do them.
Just follow the repair guide in Xentry and you will be done in no time.
Happy wrenching.

 

Thanks, I'll dig up my receipts and see if I can get MB to reimburse me. That would be nice!

I don't remember the codes and I currently can't get into the car. The mechanical key that you pull out of the FOB won't turn in the key hole to open the door. The passenger side doesn't have one.

The AC Vents are tacky. Like the coating has broken down. I think I'll try the Chemical Guys - Polishing Pad Cleaner that was suggested by others in the forum.

Nice to know it might be a $500 strut repair vs. $6,000 ABC repair!

 

Where do I find BenzNinja?

 

Is it too late to Rodeo the vehicle with a drain / fill of Pentosin and the new 3 micron filter. Then drain and fill again with Pentosin and a 2nd micron filter? How do I tell if the shards have already gone through the system?

 

A leaking strut should not contaminate the system. The only failure that will send metal through the system would be an internal pump failure. O-ring wear and debris from failed accumulators or strut piston seal wear can contaminate the fluid, but those are relatively soft particles and will be filtered out before running through the pump. I would watch the Arnott video on replacing the front strut. If this looks like a job you can take on, confirm that the leakage is the strut, replace it, and then do a flush and rodeo.

 

Any recommendations for a lift system to put in my garage? Thanks for the explanation on how things fail on the ABC.

 

https://benzninja.com/

 

MaxJax, bought it 10 years ago from Costco, best $1500 ever spent. saved me a ton.

 

As someone with an R230 SL, run!!! They're money pits...

 

Got to love Costco. The price is now $2,500 on the MaxJax website. Thinking about the $1700 one from Harbor Freight, not nearly as nice.

 

As the original owner of my SL, it is a love hate relationship. It thrills me when it runs, it breaks my heart when it doesn't. It's been this way since 2003.

 

You might look at Northern Tool also, they have a pretty big selection.

 

Haha for sure.

 

The ABC hydraulics is leaking on the front passenger side
I think if it is in front of the wheel you have an oil cooler located there. It does not have to be the oil cooler but it can just as well be a loose hose or coupling.

Schematic of the ABC suspension front. The link to where this picture was taken from is below:
http://mercedes-abc-drive-carefully....y-part-of.html



The key to mechanically open the drivers door doesn't move so the door doesn't open. So I can't start the car.
Have you tried to lubricate the mechanical lock?

Your 2003 Mercedes SL, R230 is not the first year of the SL, R230 since they where launched from the beginning of 2002 in Europe.
I think you could get the SL, R230 as early as in 2001 in Europe
So you car is not the fist year


The air vents are all sticky, any fixes?
I think this is because of the "black paint" used on the switches and air vents get sticky/tacky especially in warm climate and i know some have scraped off the paint using their fingers and some some kind of special soap. This is very common on Ferrari`s but some Mercedes have it as well
Be careful when trying to get the sticky black paint off because the plastic under the paint is plastic colored and on switches with symbols you can wipe away the symbol if you are not careful enough
More info here at the forum link below:
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...3-2004-sl.html

 

You are a Saint! Thanks for taking the time to educate. Much appreciated. Very useful information.

 

I think your problem is it only has 30,000 miles.... stop using it as a garage queen and use it as it was meant to be. But yes, since you’re having all these problems NOW, sell it and get something less complicated and without that problematic ABC suspension

 

My contribution to your question is that if you enjoy working on these magnificent cars that are as complex as the human body and you enjoy learning, then get to work as it can be done. If you don't have the time and energy for this - not everyone does - then follow the advice of beast_e550 above.

We purchased our 2003 SL500 (30,000 m/50,000 k) in 2013 as the second owner. I thought that the vehicle had been properly maintained due to the provenance that came with it. This was not accurate. As a mechanic with decades of experience with Heavy Duty and Automotive equipment, I told my wife (who really really wanted this car) that if I could not maintain and repair it, we could not afford to own it. I did not realize how complex that these vehicles are and the snap decision to purchase it has had consequences, The short story is that I have discovered through experience that the Stealerships do not have our best interests in mind and IMHO, with few exceptions, they are incompetent. So I THEN used the internet and found this forum of owner/users that share their collective knowledge and experience to help us enjoy these fantastic cars. I read the forum extensively and was convinced that I could and wanted to do this. Then I bought the SDS and learned how to use it with help from the users of this forum. The rest is history for me. I have enjoyed the learning process and the set backs that go with it. I have saved a TON of money doing the work myself. There have bee a few times that I have had something that I couldn't figure out and turned to the Stealership, All three times this has been an expensive and unsatisfying experience. With the exception of the first issue we had in 2014 (vacuum leak in the seat hose), they have always failed to resolve the issue that I took the vehicle to them for and they have consistently provided me with insanely expensive and off base potential solutions. The last one was that the hardtop would not retract and the doors would not lock/unlock with the key fob. I told them what I had done with the SDS (I provided printouts by email when I booked the appointment) and that I had a brand new MB PSE pump in the box and that I knew that it was not the issue. It was electrical and it was probably the X30/17 connector behind the passenger seat. I needed it to work ASAP and my schedule did not permit me the time to finish the job (and I needed a wheel alignment due to replacing two struts) therefore I gave the MB Dealer another shot at gaining my confidence. I was massively disappointed when $900.00 later the issue was not resolved and they recommended that I try another PSE pump at $3200.00 as the next step.

I concur with the poster who pointed you to https://benzninja.com/ as he won't let you become discouraged as he competently and cheerfully walks through every step with you. You need to have you own SDS and internet to use him is my understanding.

 

My experience thus far has been to hook up the SDS to the car and reset the AC light, which comes on after every battery change. The AC doesn't cool until this is done. Like you, our local dealership recommended a $7k ac fix (I believe it was to replace the pump if I remember correctly) which I knew wasn't the issue. So I ordered an SDS and after resetting the light, the AC worked fine.

Once I get through taxes, I plan on getting to work on the vehicle and figure out why the front passenger wheel well has something leaking. I've contacted benzninja and plan on working with him to get the vehicle back in running condition.

PS: Are there any links to videos on how to change all of the fluids in the vehicle? I'd like to start fresh.

 

YouTube has numerous videos you can look at mercedes benz abc system - YouTube but the job could not be simpler. There are numerous posts here on how to do it yourself. Just search for ABC flush. The most important detail other than having the correct Pentosin Oil, is do not let the reservoir run dry.