When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey All,
i bought aftermarket wheels and transferred my tires and TPMS sensors to them from my OEM wheels, guy did balance and confirmed tire pressure is correct on all four.
since then i am having the entire car vibrates when i hit 60 mph and above, i will go back to him to check the balance but what else could be the problem?
can it be the lug nuts? I use the stock ones.
can it be a different offset? The box had the offset details removed.
appreciate any advice.
Since you changed the wheels, it most probably caused by the new wheels. It might be the hub ring. Do you know the diameter of the center bore on the new wheels? Also per aftermarket wheel salesman, you need conical lugs for the aftermarket wheels, not the original lug nuts. Offset changes the location of the wheel/tire. It should not cause vibration. You can ask these questions where you bought the wheels from.
On the Subaru Forester, it happened to me when I changed my tires on the OEM wheels. The replacement was done at a Subaru dealer and I had to go 3 times to correct it. It was still not perfect at high speeds. I don't know what was the reason as they balance the tires each time. Road force balancing might be a solution: https://the-wheel-doctor.com/road-force-balancing/ https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...balancing.html
Originally Posted by Barak
Hey All,
i bought aftermarket wheels and transferred my tires and TPMS sensors to them from my OEM wheels, guy did balance and confirmed tire pressure is correct on all four.
since then i am having the entire car vibrates when i hit 60 mph and above, i will go back to him to check the balance but what else could be the problem?
can it be the lug nuts? I use the stock ones.
can it be a different offset? The box had the offset details removed.
appreciate any advice.
One thing I learned. The Stock lug nuts are ball shaped , The after market wheels are machined for cone shape lug nuts. The wheels do not get tight enough with the normal torque requirement. I almost replaced the differential with the knocking and vibration.
Since you changed the wheels, it most probably caused by the new wheels. It might be the hub ring. Do you know the diameter of the center bore on the new wheels? Also per aftermarket wheel salesman, you need conical lugs for the aftermarket wheels, not the original lug nuts. Offset changes the location of the wheel/tire. It should not cause vibration. You can ask these questions where you bought the wheels from.
On the Subaru Forester, it happened to me when I changed my tires on the OEM wheels. The replacement was done at a Subaru dealer and I had to go 3 times to correct it. It was still not perfect at high speeds. I don't know what was the reason as they balance the tires each time. Road force balancing might be a solution: https://the-wheel-doctor.com/road-force-balancing/ https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...balancing.html
thanks. I ordered conical lug nuts and hub rings but have no clue how to measure the diameter of the wheel hub, i googled and found the car hub is 66.4mm.
One other thing happened to me. The stock lug nuts were not long enough 2 turns of the lug wrench and they got tight. Very dangerous situation possible. Original Owner too cheap to buy proper ones and the Shop mounting them plain stupid..
One other thing happened to me. The stock lug nuts were not long enough 2 turns of the lug wrench and they got tight. Very dangerous situation possible. Original Owner too cheap to buy proper ones and the Shop mounting them plain stupid..
thanks, i ordered longer lug nuts, 27mm, cone, hopefully it will solve the problem with the hub ring.
Most aftermarket wheels have conical lug seats, but there are some with ball lug seats so don't automatically assume this is your problem - pull off a lug bolt and have a look.
Whoever supplied your wheels should be able to tell you the center bore size. To fit your car properly, you need 66.56mm (66.6mm is OK too).
Also, you want to confirm how long your lug bolts need to be - obviously you don't want them too short, but if you use bolts that are too long in the rear they can hit the emergency brake mechanism. 27mm is likely OK, just be sure to give a rear wheel a spin by hand while you've got it up in the air to make sure it spins freely, or take a rear wheel all the way off and measure how deep the lug bolts will be going into the rear hub.
Most aftermarket wheels have conical lug seats, but there are some with ball lug seats so don't automatically assume this is your problem - pull off a lug bolt and have a look.
Whoever supplied your wheels should be able to tell you the center bore size. To fit your car properly, you need 66.56mm (66.6mm is OK too).
Also, you want to confirm how long your lug bolts need to be - obviously you don't want them too short, but if you use bolts that are too long in the rear they can hit the emergency brake mechanism. 27mm is likely OK, just be sure to give a rear wheel a spin by hand while you've got it up in the air to make sure it spins freely, or take a rear wheel all the way off and measure how deep the lug bolts will be going into the rear hub.
Thanks for the detailed explanation brucewane, i tried to feel if it is conical or ball shape seat but couldn’t tell.
did check my new wheels centre bore size is 74.1mm and the shank size for my new lug nuts is 28mm while stock is 26mm.
Thanks for the detailed explanation brucewane, i tried to feel if it is conical or ball shape seat but couldn’t tell.
did check my new wheels centre bore size is 74.1mm and the shank size for my new lug nuts is 28mm while stock is 26mm.
I think you just solved your problem. If the centre bore size is off by @8mm is very likely the wheel is not centered; therefore, you need some adapter (hub rings mentioned by Carl B above)
relying on the conical lug nuts only to center the wheel is asking a bit too much. All the lugs must be adjusted carefully to avoid an off center wheel ( plenty of room given 8mm play).
Thanks for the detailed explanation brucewane, i tried to feel if it is conical or ball shape seat but couldn’t tell.
did check my new wheels centre bore size is 74.1mm and the shank size for my new lug nuts is 28mm while stock is 26mm.
I think you just solved your problem. If the centre bore size is off by @8mm is very likely the wheel is not centered; therefore, you need some adapter (hub rings mentioned by Carl B above)
relying on the conical lug nuts only to center the wheel is asking a bit too much. All the lugs must be adjusted carefully to avoid an off center wheel ( plenty of room given 8mm play).
thanks, i wish the online store i bought the wheels from would have told me about bore size differences and center rings… oh well, at least i’m learning here
thanks, i wish the online store i bought the wheels from would have told me about bore size differences and center rings… oh well, at least i’m learning here
I've played with different wheel alot ! and not had any issues with vibrations. The comments in regards to cone or curved I reserve my comments on, but do not think they would give that much of a difference to cause vibration however it is important that you use the correct wheel bolts. It was mentioned the bore size on the wheel was 66.4mm? this is not right, the Mercedes bore size on the SL is 66.6mm not 66.4:
– Center Bore: 66.6 mm
– PCD: 5x112
– Thread Size: M14 x 1.5
I would start ensuring you have the correct spigots (inserts) on your after market wheels and that they are 66.6 ID (inside diam) to meet the OD (outside diam) of the cars hub.
Next ensure that your wheels have been properly balanced both front and back?
Check the tyre condition, are the they worn and second hand? are they directional?
Now check the fitment on the car, pay attention to the front car hub, there is a lip that sticks out and not found on the rear, this can prevent the front wheels sitting flush on the brake disc (rotor in US). Make sure they are snug against the back plate and torqued correctly.
If possible spin the wheel on the car and check it for buckles by looking from the back or front of car.
In regards to wheel bolts (lug nuts in the US) make sure you get at least 4 turns, for the rears do not go too deep as it will catch the parking brake and wreck them !
Attached are a couple of photos one from my SL and the an Audi that I had, the wheels on it used to be on a Mercedes CLK I had, I converted them, by fitting spigots to fit Audi with no vibrations. After market wheels with spacers. My old Mercedes CLK staggered wheel converted to Audi hubs with spigots
All,
appreciate all your tips, guidance and above all the explanations!!
i have installed the hub ring and new lug nuts and test drove it, NO vibrations any more!!
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
