I am about to replace the front brake pads, but when reading the procedure, it mentions to "deactivate the SBC brake system using STAR diagnosis". Well, how about if I do not have the STAR diagnosis???
Will disconnecting the rear battery won't suffice?
Typically, I open the bleed screw and while pushing the pistons back, let the fluid to escape. When the new pads are In I pump the fluid back into the bleed screw to get the pads in contact with the rotors..!
What should I expect if I didn't "deactivate the SBC"..????
Thanks for your wise and always right advice.! Imack
There's a procedure to turn it off without STAR- let me find it
if you don't deactivate, you could potentially chop your fingers off if someone unlocks the car while you're changing the brakes
.For fingers to get trapped, the opening of a door would actually have to operate operate the brakes as well as pressurising the system. Does this happen? Your fingers would also need to be somewhere where you would never need to put them, ie between the disc and the caliper piston.
My friend "the King"..! Have you been searching for the promised info? If you don't find it, what I will do is completely disconnect the brake calipers from the pressure line, then do the change, and then re-pressurize through the bleed hole to reposition the pads! I will say that the problem wouldn't be the fingers, but the pistons coming out of the housing and creating a brake fluid mess!
I am about to replace the front brake pads, but when reading the procedure, it mentions to "deactivate the SBC brake system using STAR diagnosis". Well, how about if I do not have the STAR diagnosis???
Will disconnecting the rear battery won't suffice?
Typically, I open the bleed screw and while pushing the pistons back, let the fluid to escape. When the new pads are In I pump the fluid back into the bleed screw to get the pads in contact with the rotors..!
What should I expect if I didn't "deactivate the SBC"..????
Thanks for your wise and always right advice.! Imack
I just did mine. Lock the doors and put the keys in the house. easiest pad change I've ever done. Less that an hour for all 4 corners.
I would disconnect the big connector on the SBC control module - that's how I did mine.
My assumption is that the system retains enough pressure in the SBC accumulator to potentially operate the brakes while you're working on them, so presumably disconnecting the batteries isn't enough precaution. Don't put your fingers in there anyway...
And don't forget the copper grease on the mating surfaces and pins or she'll squeak!
Crack the bleeder nipples a fraction to open the pistons to get the new pads in. As NHS says - easy job!
Here's homework. The sbc needs to be calibrated after changing rotors/pads and for that there's a chain of actions to be taken. Ask me how I know. It's always a good idea to read WIS, even for the simplest tasks, on these cars.
Here's homework. The sbc needs to be calibrated after changing rotors/pads and for that there's a chain of actions to be done. Ask me how I know. It's always a good idea to read WIS, even for the simplest tasks, on these cars.
The SBC system should be disabled just as a safety precaution, as I interpret it - changing rotors and pads doesn't require any recalibration.
It's generally not a good idea to repeatedly remove and replace electrical connectors: specifically the big one on the SBC unit (as many of us do when doing brakes) but it does give you the opportunity to inspect the connections and de-oxidise them if needed.
Nonetheless the open calipers should be treated as you would live wires when working with high voltages. Just don't stick your fingers in there - ever!
And remember the rotor orientation for the front slotted rotors - the direction of the slot is from front to back (I think!) That's how I did mine when I forgot to check, but fluked it correctly.
I just replaced the brake pads without any regard to the SBC as I have worked on new BMWs and older MB for 40+ years. Well, got quite a surprise when the dash lit up with brake errors.
I can confirm that the procedures listed in post #8 works. If the directions seem a bit confusing, this video might help:
NOTE that all 4 wheels have to be off the ground; in my case the car was still on my hoist. The step to turn off ignition and back on within 5 seconds is critical; I slipped and missed the time frame and the procedure did not work. I had to start again from step 1.
Also note that if you completely forgot to disable the SBC before you started work, you have to start from step 1.
That video surely helps to nail down the de-activation/activation process. Thank you!
I noticed that in the face of that video there are other links and one of them there is one, where they disconnect the SBC plug from the unit..! Perhaps they didn't do the right job..!
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