SL/R230: Finally got to scan the ABC codes on my dad's 06 500
We had popped the hood a while back and noticed a bunch of fluid on the hoses at the ABC reservoir that some people in the past have suggested was an accumulator that blew and the pressurized contents forced the fluid out of the hose and caused the spray on the engine components right next to it. I know it also needs the rear valve block rebuilt as the rear driver side will sag after a couple of days. I finally hooked up my chinese Star system to it and ran the codes, and a TON of things showed up as failure, but the only ones we're concerned about right now is the suspension. I am still pretty green at using the software and navigating it and doing further tests, but this is what showed up.
I've told him it'd probably be best to get all new accumulators, get the valve blocks rebuilt, flush the system with new fluid and a filter, and let me run the rodeo test through my laptop and we can get his car back on the road. He's wanted to sell it at a huge loss just to get rid of the headache but told him it's not that hard to replace those parts. If he'll keep the car after I fix it, I'll do the work.

I agree with your dad, but I also applaud your drive to fix the car. I would also guess that a new pump will be needed besides other things.
In case you didn't know, you can convert the car to coilovers for very little money. A decent, basic coilover kit can be had for about $1200, and Arnott Suspension will buy your old ABC struts for $200 each (last I knew, this price does change from time to time). Sway bars are optional and can be had for about $1000. Many who have converted to coilovers are happy without swaybars, but IMO they're worth the added expense and labor. There's also a premium quality kit available from VVK that includes sway bars and a new power steering pump to replace your current power steering/ABC tandem pump; this kit is $3900. It's not absolutely necessary to replace your tandem pump; you can just modify the current hose system so that the ABC pressure line is re-routed directly back into the ABC reservoir; very easy to do, just do a google search for "mercedes r230 loopback abc". But if your current pump is leaking, it'll be cheaper to replace it with a power steering-only pump.
Coilovers will not perform like ABC. ABC lets you have a soft, compliant ride when you're cruising, a firmer ride when cornering, and height adjustability that's handy if you have steep driveways, speedbumps, etc. to deal with. An R230 with coilovers will ride and handle like an average sporty GT car with conventional shocks/springs - still good in the corners, but firmer when cruising.
There's a number of different kits available. Strutmasters was the first to offer an R230 coilover conversion kit, but IMO they're currently way behind most other available kits because they have no adjustability at all - ride height, damping, and spring preload are all fixed.
There's some R230 fans who feel that a coilover conversion "ruins the car", but I think that viewpoint's a bit extreme. Sure, it absolutely does change the ride/feel of the car, but in my experience it's just not all that drastic. And it also changes the feel of the car in another way - you no longer have that feeling of "will the ABC system fail today?" every time you drive the car. And once you've spent many $$$ and many frustrated weekends trying to fix a malfunctioning ABC system, that feeling is hard to avoid.
Last edited by brucewane; Aug 24, 2022 at 11:44 AM.
With STAR/XENTRY it will give guided fault tinding on each message so you can try and find the causes of the problems.
I would start the diagnostics with system pressure too low.
You can clear all stored faults.
You can view all sensors and read exactly what the system pressure is, and you can switch on and off all valves.
You should be able to isolate the fault quite easily.


My experience has been that the momentary ABC warning is usually caused by a bad front accumulator. If you have a 30 sec. pressure drop time and the light when you hit bumps, I would start with the front. If you have the same drop time and not light, I would start with the rear. No guarantee, but the best way I know.
With STAR/XENTRY it will give guided fault tinding on each message so you can try and find the causes of the problems.
I would start the diagnostics with system pressure too low.
You can clear all stored faults.
You can view all sensors and read exactly what the system pressure is, and you can switch on and off all valves.
You should be able to isolate the fault quite easily.
I was thinking the same thing, no good things come from any ABC warning light either white or red, momentary or constant.
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