SL/R230: SL63 transmission jolts - Looking for opinions
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SL63, SL55, SLK55, SLK350
SL63 transmission jolts - Looking for opinions
Hello,
Hello, I have a 2009 SL63, 722.9, 7G, with the V3 conductor plate. 98k miles, second owner. I know this topic has been discussed and i have searched extensively with no luck finding the answer that applies.
My question is, the car is jolting when initially taking off while in drive and reverse. Not jolting into gear, rather when starting from a stop while in gear. Seems to shift fine the rest of the time. It has never thrown any codes, and I just removed valve body and conductor plate for cleaning (solenoids and magnets, didn't completely disassemble) and performed a transmission flush hoping for a inexpensive fix.. The problem seems to have improved but not eliminated. So question, has anyone experienced and addressed this? Does this sound like the conductor plate or the wet clutch components, or possibly the pedal? Were there still problems with the V3 conductor plates? Any feedback and/or suggestions are welcome as I simply just dont want to throw parts at it. Thanks in advance for the replies.
Hello, I have a 2009 SL63, 722.9, 7G, with the V3 conductor plate. 98k miles, second owner. I know this topic has been discussed and i have searched extensively with no luck finding the answer that applies.
My question is, the car is jolting when initially taking off while in drive and reverse. Not jolting into gear, rather when starting from a stop while in gear. Seems to shift fine the rest of the time. It has never thrown any codes, and I just removed valve body and conductor plate for cleaning (solenoids and magnets, didn't completely disassemble) and performed a transmission flush hoping for a inexpensive fix.. The problem seems to have improved but not eliminated. So question, has anyone experienced and addressed this? Does this sound like the conductor plate or the wet clutch components, or possibly the pedal? Were there still problems with the V3 conductor plates? Any feedback and/or suggestions are welcome as I simply just dont want to throw parts at it. Thanks in advance for the replies.
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Newbie
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SL63, SL55, SLK55, SLK350
Hello,
Hello, I have a 2009 SL63, 722.9, 7G, with the V3 conductor plate. 98k miles, second owner. I know this topic has been discussed and i have searched extensively with no luck finding the answer that applies.
My question is, the car is jolting when initially taking off while in drive and reverse. Not jolting into gear, rather when starting from a stop while in gear. Seems to shift fine the rest of the time. It has never thrown any codes, and I just removed valve body and conductor plate for cleaning (solenoids and magnets, didn't completely disassemble) and performed a transmission flush hoping for a inexpensive fix.. The problem seems to have improved but not eliminated. So question, has anyone experienced and addressed this? Does this sound like the conductor plate or the wet clutch components, or possibly the pedal? Were there still problems with the V3 conductor plates? Any feedback and/or suggestions are welcome as I simply just dont want to throw parts at it. Thanks in advance for the replies.
Hello, I have a 2009 SL63, 722.9, 7G, with the V3 conductor plate. 98k miles, second owner. I know this topic has been discussed and i have searched extensively with no luck finding the answer that applies.
My question is, the car is jolting when initially taking off while in drive and reverse. Not jolting into gear, rather when starting from a stop while in gear. Seems to shift fine the rest of the time. It has never thrown any codes, and I just removed valve body and conductor plate for cleaning (solenoids and magnets, didn't completely disassemble) and performed a transmission flush hoping for a inexpensive fix.. The problem seems to have improved but not eliminated. So question, has anyone experienced and addressed this? Does this sound like the conductor plate or the wet clutch components, or possibly the pedal? Were there still problems with the V3 conductor plates? Any feedback and/or suggestions are welcome as I simply just dont want to throw parts at it. Thanks in advance for the replies.
The jolt when hitting the throttle in reverse last night was enough to kill the engine. Ugh. Leaning towards the wet clutch... :/
Thanks!
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SL63, SL55, SLK55, SLK350
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95 SL600
Yes when the tcc solenoid goes south the lurch is present. It feels like it’s engaging and he torque converter clutch. Fine under higher throttle, but normal driving is problematic, I have run into this 3 times in personal cars, all with the 22.6 and all were tcc solenoids. The 22.9 may be different, but if it’s clutch packs that have gone, they would have been found in the pan, and fluid.
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Yes when the tcc solenoid goes south the lurch is present. It feels like it’s engaging and he torque converter clutch. Fine under higher throttle, but normal driving is problematic, I have run into this 3 times in personal cars, all with the 22.6 and all were tcc solenoids. The 22.9 may be different, but if it’s clutch packs that have gone, they would have been found in the pan, and fluid.
Could the extremely dark fluid before me be caused by the clutch pack going out?
Appreciate your help, again just trying to determine problem w/o throwing parts at it.
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S65
Do you know the service history of the transmission? I see the fluid was changed prior to your purchase, then you did it again. Those 722.9 transmissions don't do well with 90+K miles on the original fluid. I'd do an oil sample and have it analyzed. I'd look at xentry to check the life of the clutches and see how worn they are.
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Do you know the service history of the transmission? I see the fluid was changed prior to your purchase, then you did it again. Those 722.9 transmissions don't do well with 90+K miles on the original fluid. I'd do an oil sample and have it analyzed. I'd look at xentry to check the life of the clutches and see how worn they are.
Thank you!
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S65
Lots of things that could be learned from an oil analysis, even after having it changed. Unless you did a complete flush with over 12L of oil, you will still have old oil mixed with the new. As long as you inform the lab of oil mileage, and the possibility of old oil being mixed up with the fresh oil, lab personnel should be able to give you a good idea of what the clutch wear is like. I recommend Blackstone Labs, but certainly any oil analysis lab should be able to accomplish this task.
As far as Xentry, no, the transmission doesn't need to be disassembled. Xentry looks at how long it takes for the clutches to engage based on oil filling times. Based on those times, someone who knows how to read those values can tell you how the clutches are doing. Any halfwit MB "tech" should be able to give you an idea of clutch wear based on Xentry readings.
As far as Xentry, no, the transmission doesn't need to be disassembled. Xentry looks at how long it takes for the clutches to engage based on oil filling times. Based on those times, someone who knows how to read those values can tell you how the clutches are doing. Any halfwit MB "tech" should be able to give you an idea of clutch wear based on Xentry readings.
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Lots of things that could be learned from an oil analysis, even after having it changed. Unless you did a complete flush with over 12L of oil, you will still have old oil mixed with the new. As long as you inform the lab of oil mileage, and the possibility of old oil being mixed up with the fresh oil, lab personnel should be able to give you a good idea of what the clutch wear is like. I recommend Blackstone Labs, but certainly any oil analysis lab should be able to accomplish this task.
As far as Xentry, no, the transmission doesn't need to be disassembled. Xentry looks at how long it takes for the clutches to engage based on oil filling times. Based on those times, someone who knows how to read those values can tell you how the clutches are doing. Any halfwit MB "tech" should be able to give you an idea of clutch wear based on Xentry readings.
As far as Xentry, no, the transmission doesn't need to be disassembled. Xentry looks at how long it takes for the clutches to engage based on oil filling times. Based on those times, someone who knows how to read those values can tell you how the clutches are doing. Any halfwit MB "tech" should be able to give you an idea of clutch wear based on Xentry readings.
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MB boxes are junk, this is well established.
90k miles on the factory fluid is problematic.
1. replace fluid. If no joy,
2. Relearn adaptations in XENTRY. If no joy,
3. Replace conductor plate. If no joy,
4. Replace the box
“Parts replacement” is a waste of time, money and effort.
90k miles on the factory fluid is problematic.
1. replace fluid. If no joy,
2. Relearn adaptations in XENTRY. If no joy,
3. Replace conductor plate. If no joy,
4. Replace the box
“Parts replacement” is a waste of time, money and effort.
Last edited by chassis; Aug 12, 2025 at 12:19 PM.
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From: NJ
2009 SL63 AMG
Thanks for the insight.... the fluid was changed just before i purchased, i asumme in an effort to remedy the problem. It was done at the dealer and service record said it was extremely dark. When I recently performed a flushed , to nstalled to install the upgraded filter, it was dark but not too bad. Based on a few past forum strings, the wet clutch has been the problem.
There's very limited margin for error and a very narrow temperature window to set the level on a 722.9 transmission.
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Yes, the fluid level is correct, the jolting and juttering existed before the flush, which was the reason for the flush and fluid change. Appreciate the thought though! The torque converter is a strong suspect at this point
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95 SL600
MB boxes are junk, this is well established.
90k miles on the factory fluid is problematic.
1. replace fluid. If no joy,
2. Relearn adaptations in XENTRY. If no joy,
3. Replace conductor plate. If no joy,
4. Replace the box
“Parts replacement” is a waste of time, money and effort.
90k miles on the factory fluid is problematic.
1. replace fluid. If no joy,
2. Relearn adaptations in XENTRY. If no joy,
3. Replace conductor plate. If no joy,
4. Replace the box
“Parts replacement” is a waste of time, money and effort.
Last edited by cdk4219; Aug 13, 2025 at 06:51 PM.
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MB’s of all kinds.
I can honestly say that the 722.6 is one of the strongest transmissions out there. It’s on par with the Mercedes door hinges and possibly the rear differentials, although they tend to be on the weaker side. Not a fan of the 22.9 with its DAS conductor plate nonsense though. The lifetime fluid was the cause of most of the issues.
You are correct. Just ignore the guy spewing nonsense. Every post he makes is lies about how bad MB is and how they make everything awful. I just do not know why he is even here adding no value to be honest.
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: NJ
2009 SL63 AMG
The 722.9 is also pretty stout, especially at stock / near-stock power levels.
There even are some people in the W204 AMG group that have stock transmissions holding up for years after their engines have been supercharged.
Maintenance is indeed key.
There even are some people in the W204 AMG group that have stock transmissions holding up for years after their engines have been supercharged.
Maintenance is indeed key.
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95 SL600
I suppose if Mercedes had been realistic with fluid maintenance with these transmissions they would last longer. I don’t often praise the Mercedes engineers for many of their designs and overly complicated approach, but I have brought many 722.6 transmissions back from extreme glycol contaminations and low fluid levels that were really impressive, given the fact that they ate pumps and survived strawberry milkshakes.
It’s really one of the areas that Mercedes has been pretty good at, although the lack of a proper dipstick would really be a great thing. Checking the fluid levels on my older Chevrolet trucks and others takes seconds, but it’s always a pain to check these engines and transmissions. The 722.9 is next level nonsense, and really requires a lift to do, but these cars weren’t built to last very long, and keeping them running requires lots of fixing.
It’s really one of the areas that Mercedes has been pretty good at, although the lack of a proper dipstick would really be a great thing. Checking the fluid levels on my older Chevrolet trucks and others takes seconds, but it’s always a pain to check these engines and transmissions. The 722.9 is next level nonsense, and really requires a lift to do, but these cars weren’t built to last very long, and keeping them running requires lots of fixing.
