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Hi guys,
so besides the usualy items when installing coilovers such as the coilovers and sway bars, and power steering pump, all of which i have, what other parts do i need? I read that the ABC light can be coded out with a STAR tuner? or turned off with the STAR tuner? Then my mechanic also mentioned that I will need a ABC light module that would turn off all the ABC light on the dash so that the car no longer thinks it has ABC suspension. I believe that Strutmaster makes such a module. Does any other manufacturer make this module and is this module needed for the coilover conversion? Have anyone installed this module and can share any experiences of its efficacy?
ABC can be coded to "not present" with a Xentry/STAR system.
If you don't have access to that, you can pull the fuse for the ABC system. You'll still get a white ABC warning in the instrument cluster on startup, but you can just press the reset button to clear it. You have to do this every time the car is started.
Strutmasters sells a module to "fix" the warning light for $499. Seems a bit expensive to me, but I've got my own Xentry system so I coded mine out.
As I recall, I paid about $800 total for my Xentry system from Benz Ninja. Well worth it to have the full capabilities of a MB dealer, including WIS (factory service manual) and EPC (parts catalog).
Last edited by brucewane; Feb 11, 2026 at 03:02 PM.
So if you code yours to "not present", then that's it. Nothing else need to be done every time you start the car? Can you code this and pull the fuse out?
I'm wondering if the Strutmasters is just an upsell or if there's any value in that. If i install the module will it just do nothing if it's already coded out. That's the big picture question.
So if you code yours to "not present", then that's it. Nothing else need to be done every time you start the car? Can you code this and pull the fuse out?
I'm wondering if the Strutmasters is just an upsell or if there's any value in that. If i install the module will it just do nothing if it's already coded out. That's the big picture question.
Correct, no error messages regarding ABC at all after it's set to "not present". I initially just pulled the fuse out before I dug in to Xentry to find where to select present/not present. As I recall it's under "Adaptations".
ABC was optional on the SL350, that's why the selection is available. There's other stuff that's useful to code out - for example, if you ditch the COMMAND infotainment system to install an aftermarket head, you lose the ability to set the clock on top of the dash. But you can go into Xentry and code COMMAND as "not present", then an additional selection appears in the cluster menus where you can set the clock.
In my opinion, if you're swapping to coilovers I would not go with Strutmasters. Not because of the overly expensive module, but because their coilovers are completely non-adjustable. Practically all other coilover choices are adjustable for damping, ride height, and spring preload.
2013 Porsche 911 Carrera 4S, 2004 SL55, 2012 Lexus IS250, 2021 Toyota Highlander
I'd definitely get it coded out. As someone that had one of the TPMS sensors go out and having to click through the menu every time I got in the car to get past the warning, it gets old. Really fast. You'll want to have it coded out. I haven't used my Xentry that many times but in the few times that I've used it, it's paid for itself.
Since not everyone has/had access to the Xentry/Star system, it is reasonable that someone would make a module to fool the ABC computer into "thinking" all was well.
When coded out, no module would be needed.
MB made this possible because in some markets the ABC suspension was an option.
As mentioned above, some people have coded out the TPMS system; again this was an option in some markets but mandatory in the US.
i did not go with strutmasters. I bought the silver newmax with the swift springs. i also ordered the front and rear sway bars. you will need to remove the subframe in order to install these. probably about 20 hours of labor to get all this stuff done is my guestimate from seeing a car that the conversion was done to.
Please keep us posted on progress and costs.
I often see people give up on ABC and say "I'll just slap on some $2000 coilovers". But obviously much more costly and labor intensive than that.
Good luck with you project!
i did not go with strutmasters. I bought the silver newmax with the swift springs. i also ordered the front and rear sway bars. you will need to remove the subframe in order to install these. probably about 20 hours of labor to get all this stuff done is my guestimate from seeing a car that the conversion was done to.
You don't have to completely remove the front or rear subframes for sway bar installation - you can disconnect a few specific things and let it drop a few inches to get enough clearance.
Also should mention that it's a good idea to install fresh engine mounts when installing the front bar - the clearance where the bar sits between the oil pan and the subframe is pretty close, and fully collapsed engine mounts can reduce that to near zero.
Last edited by brucewane; Feb 12, 2026 at 10:52 AM.
I have gradually lowered the front subframe by replacing each factory bolt, one at a time, with a longer bolt which is not fully threaded in. For even more clearance, I then replace those with even longer bolts until 1 have 2-3" of clearance.
Here is a picture of the hardware store bolts I use. They are M12 medium fine thread, so M12x1.25x80mm and M12x1.25x110mm.
When installing a completely dropped subframe I reverse the process so that I can ensure nothing is being pinched in the last few inches.
So far I have only dropped and lowered the front subframe, but I suspect something similar will work with the rear subframe.
Yup, just 4 bolts hold the entire front subframe with engine and suspension to the rest of the car.
1988 BMW M5, 1989 BMW M3, 1979 Mercedes 450 SEL 6.9, 2006 SL55 AMG w/ P30 Performance Pack
Originally Posted by wireless
I'd definitely get it coded out. As someone that had one of the TPMS sensors go out and having to click through the menu every time I got in the car to get past the warning, it gets old. Really fast. You'll want to have it coded out. I haven't used my Xentry that many times but in the few times that I've used it, it's paid for itself.
I coded out the TPMS because the module kept having trouble connecting to the left rear wheel sensor. Even after replacing them with new OEM - one sensor was always not connecting. I coded it out two ways I found in tutorials but every 500 miles or so I get a dash warning saying “TIRE PRESSURE SYSTEM IS INOPERATIVE! Duh? I then an annoying yellow exclamation point blinks until I clear the code in Xentry. One interesting thing I randomly got a warning to correct tire pressure when one tire loss air. So I’m guessing I don’t have the system completely disabled🤷🏽. Is there a 3rd section in Xentry that needs to be disabled? Out of ideas.
499 for a module! Holy cow there isn't enough electronics worth 25 bucks. I got one with the car I bought but it was not installed. Peter Benzninga coded it out. Presidents' day sale if you want a module Huge Discount LOL
I coded out the TPMS because the module kept having trouble connecting to the left rear wheel sensor. Even after replacing them with new OEM - one sensor was always not connecting. I coded it out two ways I found in tutorials but every 500 miles or so I get a dash warning saying “TIRE PRESSURE SYSTEM IS INOPERATIVE! Duh? I then an annoying yellow exclamation point blinks until I clear the code in Xentry. One interesting thing I randomly got a warning to correct tire pressure when one tire loss air. So I’m guessing I don’t have the system completely disabled🤷🏽. Is there a 3rd section in Xentry that needs to be disabled? Out of ideas.
I likely followed the same instructions and was not able to fully code out TPMS either.
Ended up replacing two TPMS sensors to resolve it.
What did help was buying a quality TPMS sensor tool to verify sensors before install.
Considering I've experienced NIB sensors be DOA, these days I don't install a sensor without verifying with this tool first.
Hi guys,
So besides the usual items when installing coilovers such as the coilovers and sway bars, and power steering pump, all of which I have, and advice from a Generator repair facility in Houston, what other parts do I need? I read that the ABC light can be coded out with a STAR tuner or turned off with the STAR tuner. Then my mechanic also mentioned that I will need an ABC light module that would turn off all the ABC light on the dash so that the car no longer thinks it has ABC suspension. I believe that Strutmaster makes such a module. Does any other manufacturer make this module and is this module needed for the coilover conversion? Has anyone installed this module and can share any experiences of its efficacy?
thank you
You will need an ABC delete or bypass module to turn off the ABC light, or you can code out the ABC system using a STAR tuner. Without one of these, the ABC light will stay on and the ECU may react as if the suspension is faulty. Either the module or coding is required for a proper coilover conversion.
Any instructions on how to code out ABC? I fitted Silvers Neomax coil overs and I'm really happy with the result. Don't believe anyone who says you need a swaybar (anti-roll bar). No you don't. I've chucked mine in all sorts of bends at all sorts of speeds and it doesn't feel unsteady whatsoever.
Although I've pulled the fuse for the ABC, I'd love to get rid of the white ABC message on the dash. But I can't find anywhere on Xentry how to do that. Although when I try to access "Instrumentation" it doesn't communicate. I keep getting an error. I also don't have the option to get into the Gateway.
I'd also like to code out the Command radio. I replaced it with a Chinese headhunt especially for the SL and it works a treat. Wireless Apple CarPlay and even the steering wheel buttons work. The only thing I can't do is set the clock! It was a bit of a challenge to get it to work with the existing Bose amp and speakers, but I got there in the end.
2013 Porsche 911 Carrera 4S, 2004 SL55, 2012 Lexus IS250, 2021 Toyota Highlander
There's an adaptation you can do on the module to set it as 'not present' and that will get rid of the light for you. I know there a few videos on it because that's what I used. But the caveat is that you need to use SDS to get rid of it. Your normal Thinkcar or Autel won't cut it.
As far as the clock is concerned, there's an adaptation you can do to allow you to set the clock via the instrument console. You'll need SDS for that as well.
I also have an Apple CarPlay head unit. Since I also added the adapter for the steering wheel buttons, I have been able to check the clock time with the buttons. Its a tricky sequence using the left side menu buttons with the right side + and - buttons, but doable.
I guess with day lights saving time now, I will need to change my time again. I will try to document the exact sequence.
I also have an Apple CarPlay head unit. Since I also added the adapter for the steering wheel buttons, I have been able to check the clock time with the buttons. Its a tricky sequence using the left side menu buttons with the right side + and - buttons, but doable.
I guess with day lights saving time now, I will need to change my time again. I will try to document the exact sequence.
My easy solution to set the clock is to reconnect the battery at midday!
Correct, no error messages regarding ABC at all after it's set to "not present". I initially just pulled the fuse out before I dug in to Xentry to find where to select present/not present. As I recall it's under "Adaptations".
ABC was optional on the SL350, that's why the selection is available. There's other stuff that's useful to code out - for example, if you ditch the COMMAND infotainment system to install an aftermarket head, you lose the ability to set the clock on top of the dash. But you can go into riddle of the day Xentry and code COMMAND as "not present", then an additional selection appears in the cluster menus where you can set the clock.
In my opinion, if you're swapping to coilovers I would not go with Strutmasters. Not because of the overly expensive module, but because their coilovers are completely non-adjustable. Practically all other coilover choices are adjustable for damping, ride height, and spring preload.
You will need the mechanical parts coilovers sway bars and pump bypass or removal plus electronic ABC deletion. The ABC light can sometimes be coded out with STAR Xentry but not always fully depending on the model. If coding does not work you will need an ABC emulator delete module like Strutmasters to remove dash warnings. Other brands exist but are very limited Strutmasters is the main one people use. In most conversions either STAR coding or an emulator module is required to stop the ABC warnings.
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