I have a number of diagnostic tools, from a Chinese clone SDS, to an Autel MaxiDAS DS808, to an iCarsoft MB II, to now an iCarsoft MB V3.0. I have to say that the latest iCarsoft MB V3.0 is the best bang for the buck I have come across. It is fast, covers the latest MB models, and performs all of the functions (or at least the ones I need) than the more expensive Autel MaxiDAS DS808 (for nearly $800) does for under $200. It has three features that greatly outperforms the cheaper iCarsoft MB II: auto detects the vehicle by reading the VIN; auto scans all controllers for trouble codes; and actually includes the latest SL models.

Anyone who owns a Mercedes should have one of these in their car. It fits perfectly in the storage box behind the driver's seat along with the owner's manual.




AmazonSmile: iCarsoft MB V3.0 for Mercedes-Benz/Sprinter/Smart Diagnostic Tool with auto VIN/Quick Test/Actuation Test : Automotive

(*Note: The Autel MaxiDAS DS808 supports virtually every make and model available, where the iCarsoft MB V3.0 is for MB cars, including Sprinter and Smart.)

 

Reviews on Amazon appear to be pretty terrible.

 

I saw that and was prepared to return it if I didn't think it was any good. But I was quite pleasantly surprised by what it did for me. It worked perfectly for me on my 2015 SL400. It automatically read the VIN and selected the correct car and automatically scanned all control modules for any DTCs. I will have to try it on my 2014 C350 because I know the slightly less expensive iCarsoft MB II does not support that car specifically.

As I said originally, I already have some professional grade scan tools. I have two SDS clones (C4 & C5), an Autel MaxiDAS DS808 and a DS708, an iCarsoft MB II, and now this tool. Firsthand experience with the MB V3.0 shows it performs as well as the $840 MaxiDAS DS808 tool specifically for the Mercedes. (The Autel MaxiDAS DS808 is the way to go if you have different brands of autos.)

In addition to auto detecting my car, the iCarsoft MB V3.0 is super-fast to scan all of the control modules in the car. Here's the thing, you can return it if it's not what you expect.

 

Thanks! Two questions: 1) Do you know if any of these can trigger a “rodeo” of the R231 ABC system, and 2) Are they back compatible with the R129 series SL500s? I saw a few comments in the reviews for the iCarsoft MB v3 that would suggest that the latter is not the case.

 

You need HHT Tester or HHT-WIN (emulator) hooked up to the 38pin connector.
Nothing comes close for the r129 especially on a car with ABC.

 

I don’t know about the rodeo function. I don’t have my SL500 any more, so I can’t test for it. I know the Autel MaxiDAS DS808 did.

 

Yep great tool. I had one for my Jaguar S Type ( which I sold with the car after 11 years ) And now have one for my 2013 350

 

Yes, I have the Star diagnostic tool, but it's not very convenient to use if you are away from home. The iCarsoft tool fits neatly in the storage compartment behind the driver's seat.

 

For W210 requiring 38pin connector under the hood, which one is better for TCM reset and code clearing?

After [ATF oil change, (conductor + 13pin plug)'s replacemen, cleaning oil leak at both the plug and TCM connector by electronic cleaner spray], this car is now under limp mode and clunk while P to R or D, when D to N, then cannot (mechanically lock) to R, need to switch off the engine (lock released then), to P.

I search eBay/Aliexpress etc., the MB SDS C4 (need HHT-WIN) are all equiped with very old and used laptop or toughbook.
I have a Foxwell NT520 Elite Scanner but cannot search TCM and do the job clearing code.

Therefore, I read e.g. icarsoft V1.0, looks like it support W210 and TCM issue.

Should I go for MB Star SDS C4 (HHT-WIN), iCarsoft V1.0 or V3.0?

Solicit and happy for advice. Thanks.

 

What prompted the ATF/conductor plate change? Were you having those issues (clunking,shifting etc…) before? If not, I can’t help but think you have an issue related to your repair. i.e. something was improperly installed. Bent connectors, fluid level, ATF fluid spec. etc…. Basic mechanics rule of thumb is: if it worked before you Fu£€ed with it, it’s something you Fu£€ed up. Of course you’re kind of flying blind right now without a proper scanner.

I can’t comment on iCarsoft as I don’t use it. I know those systems fall short in several key areas but it’s definitely the easiest path to “plug and play” for the weekend wrencher to ” read” codes if that’s what you’re looking for.

While MB diagnostic systems have gone thru several iterations, HHT, DAS, XENTRY, I can tell you MB Star system is the default factory tool designed to properly diagnose, test, and program various modules on every Mercedes Benz vehicle manufactured in the last 33 years.

The issue with Aliexpress versions is they are only reliable if you have the software properly installed, and good quality hardware (multiplexer & cables). That’s why you see some with older DELL 610’s, IBM thinkpads, or Toughbooks for these systems. DAS/XENTRY &HHT Emulator are designed to officially support only on a few computers. (They arrive preconfigured at dealerships). COM Port interface programing being key for proper reliable communication to the multiplexer. It also depends on the version of XENTRY/DAS you need. You didn’t mention what year, but assume you need HHT Emulator so your needs are more basic as far as software. But your hardware (multipexer and cables) have to be good quality as the 38 pin connection can already be a little finicky. Problem is, it’s a crapshoot to which vendors systems/hardware are reliable on aiexpress. Some use virtual machine which in my experience is unreliable.

I know one of the site sponsors sells complete systems he has tested and seems to have pretty good feedback. I have never used him, but it’s an option. Another option is to buy an HHT in the used market. I see them come up. I also think with quality hardware, you could put together a good reliable system if you are computer savvy. Also remember XENTRY expires, so you have remember to keep rolling back the date. I would do some research if you’re serious about getting a good MB Star system and only then make a purchase. You want a tool you can use now, not have a bunch of issues compounding your current problems.
Since your car isn’t running you may not have that luxury 🙁

Good Luck.

This may help:

 

Hi Cr, thanks for your reply and advice. Let me make it brief but details to the issues.

This is a 2001 facelift W210.062 model running V6 M112 enginer + 722.6 5-speed transmission, and it has been running for 6 years since the last AFT oil change.

One day, my situation is very similar to this thread https://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/i...e-gear.113245/

Display Defective fixed, by replacing the washer fluid level sensor, plug-n-play cheap Bilstein parts, I also bought the coolant level sensor but yet change, b/c no such issue at all.
From time to time since the above, I also come across BAC/ESP/ABS malfunction, 1st have to go for the break light swith replacement (OEM MB product), hope this fixed too, yet verified.

Since the clunk betwen P to R, D, I experienced the limp home mode 6 years ago. Last time was done by my mechanic, he replaced the conductor plate, check the TCM, he also tested by his OEM Dell MB computer.
But he told me, next time, you can DIY b/c you know the issue more than himself.

Since the above "Display Defective, BAC/ESP/ABS error, plus clunking limp home mode", I DIY myself for 1 day w my friend. Jack up, Jacp stand slept under the car for black and dirty job.
Prior to this, I found oil at TCM plug, 13-pin connecting to the conductor plate. So I beleive it's time to do the cleaning and replacement jobs, try walk around to some garage and speak w some mechanics.
I saw a mechanic also fixing the similar issues and told me it still limp home mode after oil change, conductor+plug replacement. Finally, another mechanic helped me by TCM restting w MB OEM tools, I guess is Xentry.

I think moving one step further (assuming no ben, this DIY job is well done), that I should go for computer check and TCM reset. I found MB Star C3, C4,,,, those 38pin connector under the hoold should go for old mode who support HHT-WIN. On the other side, I also see some diagnosis tools particular iCarsoft 1.0, support W210 and TCM. It's not expensive, but if try but no use, totally wasting money.

I ask my self, in the future, that I may drive VW Golf, Toyota, other cars than MB. Should I go for iCarsoft CR-MAX who support all vehicle with advanced function and live update?
Then I am aksing if any expert has experienced this and use some aftermarket tools for TCM reset.

Thanks.

 

You're in the R231 forum, I understand you're asking about diagnostic equipment, but you may get more focused responses in the W210 forum,

So replacing a conductor plate every 6 years isn't normal. The early conductor plates had issues and the plastic cracked. They changed the design and new design should last longer than 6 years. I'm not saying this IS NOT the issue, I'm just saying that would be against the odds. You're flying blind without a HHT or HHT-WIN emulator. BAC/ESP/ABS malfunction is pretty generic warning for those cars and a whole bunch of different issues can trigger that code. I've seen wheel sensors, brake switches, TCM's, wiring, and even alignment trigger that message. You need to get your car properly scanned to see if you can find a clue as to what your issue actually is.

So reading your post, you had ATF fluid ingress in your 13 pin connector and made its way up into the TCM. (they should have replaced that connector the first time when they did the conductor plate) sounds like you may have done that now. But it may indeed have shorted the TCM.

Not sure what you're trying to say here. But yes you want to make sure you get a scanner that works and reads with ALL the systems on that car. What about contacting the mfger of iCarsoft directly?

Well if you're looking for the swiss army knife of diagnostic scanners I can tell you STAR system is NOT it. The problem with those early cars using HHT is that those newer generic scanners only read part of the on board systems of that car. The electronics weren't very sophisticated but very proprietary on those cars, thats half the problem with getting modern generic scanners to talk to all the MB vehicle systems. You could just always resell the star system or sell it with the car when you go to another non MBZ vehicle.

Unfortunately my experience is limited to using HHT/DAS to communicate with those vehicles. Maybe the OP can chime in, or you can ask on the W210 forum. But honestly, you need to get a full scan on that car and throwing parts at it will just suck you down the worm hole further. If possible, I try to change only one part at a time and see what the results are. When you throw 10 parts at a problem, you can easily get lost as to which part was actually at fault and which new part may causing problems.....


Good Luck.

 

Thanks CR, to articulate 2 points further. When I made the AFT oil change, I found oil leak at the 13-pin plug connecting to the conductor plate and TCM.

(1) While replacing the conductor plate, I checked the plate looks good (to response you 6-year conductor is over, probably not). After all, I bought the full set of gasket, plug, conductor plate, 6L OEM MB oil (just use less than 4L only in the end).
(2) You may be right, the TCM may be already short. 6 years ago, I bought the same part number TCM from eBay. 2 days ago, I install the eBay TCM to the car and the situation is the same (Limp Home Mode). While starting the car, turn key(1,2,start engine...I feel it a bit 1/8second lag => donno if the TCM is not electronically connected).

I have contacted iCarsoft via Amazon already, the seller replied me CR-MAX can handle limp mode code and code deletion. The current action is paused, I am waiting for my Mechanic's repsonse - to help me doing the full check with MB Star SDS. Gut feeling - if I spent $ on aftermarket scanner (I have Foxwell NT650 elite with 38pin multiplexer 38-pin connector but cannot help) again, it may be wasting $ again. Thanks again for your advice.

 

I don't pretend to understand half of this particular thread but I have to comment that this thread is exactly why this forum is so valuable. Crconsulting, you have been more than generous with your time and expertise on this forum. Just wanted to give a shoutout to you from all of us who are mechanically challenged but still strive to keep our cars in as good as shape as we can. Thank you!

 

Thats quite kind of you Ruppster. 👍
I always feel bad for anyone whose car has been "bricked" by something that can't be easily diagnosed without specialized tools, sadly very common nowadays.
Unfortunately proper diagnosis of many of these sometimes simple problems over the internet can be quite difficult. There's nothing like being on site and/or knowing cars history. Sometimes even visual clues allow you to find problems easily.


Something to be said about "the good ol' days"

 

This is your best course of action. Frustrating I know, but better than throwing parts at the car....
Make sure they check wheel sensors too. I suggest, if you haven't done so already, posting in the W210 forum. You'll probably get more responses there too.
For sure, hopefully you can use the Foxwell Elite on other vehicles. I'm sure it reads OBDII and is probably a decent scanner for most vehicles.


Good Luck

 

Can the Icarsoft tell you which radar units are not working properly? MB tell me they need to charge me £200-00 to remove the back bumper to determine what is causing the problem. (Blindspot & lane keeping assist inoperative). Three units in there.

Batteries are fine.

 

Yes, it can (but let me check). But I don't think that will cause the problem.

 

Of course, the one time I want there to be an error code for the radar sensors, there’s not. I usually have them all the time. I use several scanners (iCarsoft, Autel, BlueDriver, Carley, and MB Star DAS), but normally iCarsoft first and am told which ones have errors. The errors are usually some external interference. But I’ve had the errors without the other problems you listed.

 

Many times you can tell by visual inspection. The connectors on the back can/will occasionally corrode…
Since you’re in the UK, your car may have more exposure to moisture than most. Cars driven in snow can also have this issue crop up.

Is the warning intermittent? Did you wash your car recently? Or drive in the rain?

I usually (very carefully) add some silicone on the outside of the connectors when I replace the rears. You can occasionally clean the connectors and they will function properly again. Sometimes the sensor “delaminates” and moisture gets inside, in which case they need to be replaced. Since your car is a facelift car it has two outer sensors 000-905-81-04 and a distance sensor Part number 000-905-88-02-27. Looks like they superseded the part number so maybe improved the design or another vendor maybe supplying MB.

One of the reasons I looked for a car without that option ☹️

Good Luck

 

The car lives in a garage is low mileage (19,000) and rarely gets intentionally driven in wet weather. The fault is intermittent and seems to occur when something warms up. On a cold day, it will be fine for about the first 45 minutes and on a warm day, the warning comes up within about 15 minutes .

It seems like a simple job but I don’t have a lift and really don’t feel like lying on the ground ( might not get up again) to get at some of the screws to remove the bumper (besides the fact that I don’t actually know where to start).

At the moment I have disabled it from the dash. I don’t miss it as I do have my mirrors set so that I have no blind spots and have rarely had the lane keeping assist activate. What does surprise me is that the distronic (with self steering) still works.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

Weekend wrenchers. That's a bit harsh old boy.

 

Unfortunately that sounds like a sensor issue. Typically connectors and wiring reacts to moisture. They stop woking in the rain. Sometimes though, its the opposite. They work in the rain! Gotta love electrical problems. Temp related issues are "usually" tracked to sensor/component integrated circuits, capacitors, bad solder, etc...

Yeah, it's bad enough I have to listen to my wife giving me driving advice when I drive, I can't imagine her grabbing the wheel too. I think most people turn that feature off.

Separate function/components. Handles speed holding, distance holding and braking but not steering

 

Haha 😆
Hey, I'm as much of a weekend wrench as the next guy....
Here in the US, if one wants to be harsh, we would say "Shadetree Mechanics"
(and that is NOT me below)😂😂

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shadetree_mechanic

 

Thanks for the feedback.

I’ll take it in and get it done. I don’t like letting little things go unattended. Going to be an expensive month - 2 tyres and radar.

While I’ve rarely had the lane keeping assist activate, when it has, it has not been dramatic or worrying. I’d rather have it than not. Same as blind spot assist - I actually do not have a blind spot with the way my mirrors are set. But, rather have it than not.