SL/R231: Looking at 2013 SL550's, a few questions..








The biggie will be the ride comfort and convince of ABC at the cost of added systems/complexity. Or the simplicity, reliability, and tune-ability of coil over’s.
Make sure you get one with as late a production date as possible.
There is a cold start, timing chain tensioner issue with early m278’s
FROM TSB:
1) Up to engine number 278 9xx 30 073273 install check valves and chain tensioners
2) From engine number 278 9xx 30 073274 up to engine number 278 9xx 30 103675 (February 2013) install check valves only (optimized tensioners installed in this production range)
There’s also a possible valve guide issue with M278 after the engine number
278 9xx 30 128000
Also the cam sensors can leak into the engine wiring harness. Make sure you have them inspected.
https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...ion-wires.html
Other issues are, the shifter in these cars are shift by wire. They are susceptible to fluid/dirt contamination.
The seats have a lot of electromechanical systems that can wear. The R231’s need batteries pretty regularly and don’t react well to low voltage conditions.
Those are some quick thoughts on things to look for. I’m sure others will chime in with their experiences.
Good Luck!
Last edited by crconsulting; Mar 9, 2022 at 09:37 PM.




They’re designed with somewhat different engineering goals, but since you have a E550 now, you will probably like the SL550. You’ll have to decide options that are important to you.
The biggie will be the ride comfort and convince of ABC at the cost of added systems/complexity. Or the simplicity, reliability, and tune-ability of coil over’s.
These cars are pretty good. I’m sure others will chime in. Besides the carfax/condition basics, things I would look for in a 2013 is:
Make sure you get one with as late a production date as possible.
There is a cold start, timing chain tensioner issue with early m278’s
FROM TSB:
1) Up to engine number 278 9xx 30 073273 install check valves and chain tensioners
2) From engine number 278 9xx 30 073274 up to engine number 278 9xx 30 103675 (February 2013) install check valves only (optimized tensioners installed in this production range)
There’s also a possible valve guide issue with M278 after the engine number
278 9xx 30 128000
Also the cam sensors can leak into the engine wiring harness. Make sure you have them inspected.
https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...ion-wires.html
Other issues are, the shifter in these cars are shift by wire. They are susceptible to fluid/dirt contamination.
The seats have a lot of electromechanical systems that can wear. The R231’s need batteries pretty regularly and don’t react well to low voltage conditions.
Those are some quick thoughts on things to look for. I’m sure others will chime in with their experiences.
Good Luck!
I have a few weeks to make my decision between the 63 and the 550, so lets see if I just say screw it and go with the 63 for the extra $100-150 per month in payment. I know I will be more than happy with the 550, but I have been itching for another AMG as I loved my CLS55 AMG.
Overall, nothing too severe it seems which is great news. I can't thank you enough for taking this time to respond, very helpful and appreciated.
Last edited by griza; Mar 10, 2022 at 12:27 AM.
For the price difference, you can get a very nicely equipped car.




Issues? Steering column adjust up-down just froze and the driver's seat massage etc. seems to've recently given up.
Last edited by Bitbytr; Mar 11, 2022 at 09:59 AM.





Mostly minor annoyances I would say, but theres always the "bad luck" factor in buying used.




Is it stuck in the up or down position?
There's a little part in that column that breaks over time, but if you put pressure on the steering wheel while you're trying to adjust, (up or down depending on where its stuck. Usually they stick in the up position, so you would push the wheel down while trying to adjust down) it will "catch' and should move again. It happens mostly when you have the steering column easy entry/exit function enabled, and it moves outside of a certain range.
See if you can hear that motor in the steering column....
Good Luck!
Last edited by crconsulting; Mar 10, 2022 at 11:28 AM.
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A good thump to the top of the wheel with your hand usually gets things moving again. I stopped using the easy entry/exit and hauling myself out of the car using the wheel for leverage
2. Trunk struts fail to hold trunk lid up
Usually first seen in colder weather. An easy fix if you're at all handy
3. Pneumatics to the seats fail
Mine failed a couple of weeks ago. Just pulled out of the garage, heard a loud pop behind my left shoulder. All pneumatic seat functions lost, driver and passenger side. I'm guessing low temperatures caused something to give way, either a line or coupling. Will live without active seat bolsters and massage until the car's next service.
Gary
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




Try to manually move the steering wheel with the little button on the column (with car either running or ignition switch in position 2) while pushing down on the steering wheel with constant pressure. It will “engage” and move normally again. It’s a little more consistent to engage vs thumping on the top of the steering wheel.
Though it may not be as pleasurable if you just spent $10,000 on repairs.

The seats have a lot of parts in them, seems to be a popular source of frustration…
Last edited by crconsulting; Mar 10, 2022 at 03:21 PM.
Here is a link to the vehicle I used as reference, the first car I ever drove was a '99 SL 500, my uncles!
https://www.emmonsmotorcompany.com/u...rader_listings
Last edited by Highline-Autos.com; Mar 10, 2022 at 11:46 PM.
Here is a link to the vehicle I used as reference, the first car I ever drove was a '99 SL 500, my uncles!
https://www.emmonsmotorcompany.com/u...rader_listings








I've tried hitting the steering wheel whilst using the up-down lever to no avail. I can hear the click when the motor engages but no continual whirring to indicate that plastic bit broke and the motor continues to spin. I'll try with constant downwards pressure whilst activating the lever. It's annoying because it stuck at the uppermost range and so, without raising the seat, blocks my full view of the dashboard (the ECO lights along the bottom etc.). If I get it to engage, I'd be very happy and have already disabled the Easy In and Out (or whatever they named it!).


















Last edited by griza; Mar 19, 2022 at 08:36 PM.








