Hello, for an SL R231 i have an issue around 3k rpm not wot but when it accelerates the car seems to cut power for a second. I get a fault code c038300. Already changed the main battery. I used to get the traction control symbol and i lost contact with the accelerator pedal i changed that one as well. Anyone knows what might be causing the problem. Thank you

 

I cannot find a description of that code. What scan tool did you use and what was the description for the code?

Have you checked all of your fuses? Do you get an actual CEL or just the traction control light? Does the CEL flash or just remain on steady?

As always, please tell us the model and year of your car.

 

Check this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/cls-coupe...lfunction.html

 

No CEL.

 

Found this in another thread: C038300 Can Message From Control Unit “Engine” Is Faulty

Well, that could be a lot of things. Trying a different key would be my first step since your replaced the battery. (Which battery did you replace? Engine compartment or trunk?)

Also, send the money to get an iCarsoft MB V3.0 (not the MB II). It's pay for itself in time and money the first time you use it.

Amazon

Amazon

 

Thats a generic CAN Bus error code. The type you get from generic scanners.
You need to get your car scanned on XENTRY. While aftermarket scanners work OK for some issues. You wont get any detailed info like you would from XENTRY factory software. Nor will you be able to perform on car testing of components. On these cars, you're working blindfolded with anything else.

It will also be tough to diagnose over the net, especially without more info.
Mileage? It's probably an electronic issue, failing crankshaft position sensor can act like that....
Also make sure your MAF's are clean. (easy)

Good Luck

 

I concur. I recommend every Mercedes owner get a scan tool specifically for Mercedes that they can use at home. (Wouldn't it be great if they actually provided one with the car, but then the dealers couldn't charge you an hour's labor to read a scan code.) The iCarsoft scanner is specific to MB and can identify problems. It's not intended to program the car like with XENTRY, however it can help with many basic functions. I recently had to replace my driver's safety belt buckle that threw an airbag error. The part was $100 from my local dealer, but would have cost over $400 if the dealer made the fix. I was able to do the replacement and reset the airbag light myself for $100.

 

This is an issue I’ve had with many companies these days “right of repair”
Many companies have been sued over this including Mercedes and Porsche, Apple is worse.
Xentry pass thru is available for independents now though. It’s worth looking into.
I still use a multplexer, but have used the passthru version and it works similarly minus a few features.

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...u-version.html

Once you’ve used Xentry you’ll understand why the generic scanners are worthless. its not just coding, it’s the on vehicle testing that’s indispensable.

 

I do have XENTRY with a C4 multiplexer that I got from AliExpress. That's why I am able to say for MOST users, the iCarsoft (or even an Autel MaxiDAS) are sufficient. (The Autel supports virtually every make and model of vehicles and is more of a shop-level tool. And priced as such!)

Even this XENTRY PassThru may be a little much for many users. You need to be a little tech savvy to use KEYGEN, etc. The iCarsoft MB V3.0 will find any faults you have. You can then decide what to do next.

 

see below

 

I'm not trying to be confrontational because you give a lot of good advice to members. I'm just pointing out that some folks would benefit from have a simple diagnostic tool to do some initial trouble-shooting.

There is limited testing and live monitoring you can do with the iCarsoft MB V3.0. (I differentiate between the MB V3.0 and MB II since the V3.0 seems to have more functions and is certainly faster.). I'm just pointing out having an easy to use (and user safe) tool to do initial trouble shooting is something any MB owner should have unless they have the funds to pay the dealer to replace their wiper blades.

 

I know you’re not, never took it as such….

No question. Problem is you usually need to dig deeper once you have that code. Especially in chassis and suspension issues, or complex electromechanical systems that require on board component testing or “cycling”. Where most aftermarket readers fall short. Don't get me wrong, I agree you need the best code reader on these as possible (or any other car these days). It’s just that if you’re going to work on, and own one of these cars. Sooner or later you’ll need XENTRY.

If you’re doing advanced diagnostics and repairs on an R231. I would say most users in that category, would(or should) be tech savvy enough. Since you found Xentry thru Alixpress, it would stand to reason most people working on these who post here as owners, can probably do the same especially with Passthru. (there’s also a few people who advertise on this site with turnkey solutions). You don’t necessarily need a keygen for passthru if you have legit access. It’s not that difficult to get.

that being said, I don’t want to sidetrack too much…
The OP needs a better code reader and more details in order to help.

 

I changed the main battery in the trunk. Yesterday i checked the sensors for the cams and there was oil inside, i cleaned them up but didn't have the chance to check the car. You believe this might be the problem? I will try to replicate the issue usually does it around 3k rpm and check with xentry if anything comes up as a fault.

 

Changed spark plugs and accelerator pedal as well

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4c4c0x7483...75525.mp4?dl=0

At 2.9k listen to the sound how it changes the pedal is steady and does that hesitation when you try to accelerate

 

This isn’t good…..
Get the sacrificial harness kit ASAP and replace the cam sensors.
I (and others) posted this being an issue with M278’s.
They've updated the cam sensors several times, but there are still plenty of horror stories.
It is highly probable that is your issue. If it’s not now, it will be soon. If capillary action has started permeating your wiring harness with oil, it may need to be replaced if you can’t get it clean 😟

Here’s some info for you here:
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...ml#post8458084

Clear (but record) all the codes and see what pops up after you drive it again after replacing cam sensors, adding sacrificial harness, and cleaning harness. Look for oil ingress at the 02 sensor connectors.

 

Will do ASAP. Thank you for your help i will post when i change everything, hopefully it didn't get through.

 

Have a look at the pins at ECU connector too 😟
CRC Electronic Cleaner works well in this application.
https://www.crcindustries.com/produc...-11-wt-oz.html

Good Luck

 

@crconsulting So, what's the secret to removing the connectors. I assume you pull the little white part up. I tried squeezing it and the connector would move but would not come off. Am I supposed to stand on one foot or hold my tongue a certain way?

Thanks!

EDIT: Never mind! You just have to squeeze a little harder and wiggle a bit.

 

Glad you got it…
this may help someone in the future:
https://catalog.kleemann.dk/wp-conte...val-Guide1.pdf

or: