When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Parklight in main lamp right side is out, any fix?
parking light is gone right side, is no water in lamp or anything , we taken the lamp off, and want know if any fix for change the bulb ? tested the contact here on picture with another lamp. must be a fix for this, cant change hole lamp . fitted just test lamp to contact to se if get electric to another bulb
Last edited by Tommyboy928; 04-15-2023 at 08:58 AM.
park light taken out , is led . but where to order this one. had to drill hole in assembly to get to skrew to take it out .
Nice job! Identifying and sourcing the replacement LED now becomes the issue. There won’t be any spec. available outside MB engineering dept.
Since the LED is already dead, I would unsolder it to see if there are any identifying markings on the back. It probably is manufactured by CREE (or similar MFG).
If you look at the LED under magnification see if it has lines running across it.
It’s also worth mentioning, I prefer an inductive type soldering station such as a Metcal MX-500P when soldering LED’s and other sensitive electronic components, as it will reduce potentially damaging heat exposure to the LED (or component) itself.
What color are your parking lights? White or Orange?
Last edited by crconsulting; 04-15-2023 at 11:17 AM.
I think its doable, but will require quite a bit of time to research. I know just enough about component level repairs to be dangerous, so far from expert but.
The hope is to find some part numbers to lead to a specification. Then try to find a currently available (see below) replacement SMD LED to match the specification. That, or replace all of them. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SMD_LED
Digi-Key is my go to source for all this: https://www.digikey.com/en/products
In the end, I think it is going to be much easier and cost effective just to find a damaged light at the wreckers and salvage the LED (or strip) from that unit.
Last edited by crconsulting; 04-15-2023 at 01:34 PM.
I think its doable, but will require quite a bit of time to research. I know just enough about component level repairs to be dangerous, so far from expert but.
The hope is to find some part numbers to lead to a specification. Then try to find a currently available (see below) replacement SMD LED to match the specification. That, or replace all of them. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SMD_LED
Digi-Key is my go to source for all this: https://www.digikey.com/en/products
In the end, I think it is going to be much easier and cost effective just to find a damaged light at the wreckers and salvage the LED (or strip) from that unit.
Great info!
It’s a long shot, but if there’s no voltage at the LED, I’d look very closely (use a 4 to 10 power microscope or magnifying glass) at the solder connections on the board--everything from the connector to the LED.
I have seen many, many fractured solder connections—usually due to vibrations over time. The fractures are very difficult to see with the naked eye.
Even if you don’t see any fractures, I’d go ahead and reflow the solder on the connector, LED and anything that looks suspect. Here’s a pic I took of a typical solder fracture for reference. As you can see, it’s not noticeable until you get close.
yes, thats plan A ,guess the same park light is used in other models , not shure who make this for Mercedes, the complete . but in Norway they want 4000 usd for complete lamp, other source is just below 2000 .
Nice job! Identifying and sourcing the replacement LED now becomes the issue. There won’t be any spec. available outside MB engineering dept.
Since the LED is already dead, I would unsolder it to see if there are any identifying markings on the back. It probably is manufactured by CREE (or similar MFG).
If you look at the LED under magnification see if it has lines running across it.
It’s also worth mentioning, I prefer an inductive type soldering station such as a Metcal MX-500P when soldering LED’s and other sensitive electronic components, as it will reduce potentially damaging heat exposure to the LED (or component) itself.
What color are your parking lights? White or Orange?
standard white, never seen any yellow on this ones . posted a picture from back side this light .
standard white, never seen any yellow on this ones . posted a picture from back side this light .
Thanks for the pictures.
Unfortunately we in the US are stuck with the yellow lights below. I personally would much prefer the white lights.
But nonetheless, something to be aware of if shopping for a used part online. They are two different part numbers.
If you get a chance can you post a picture of the whole part (strip) front and back?
It might help in possibly locating an alternative compatible MB replacement part.
the led light work if put electric direct on the led ,its light, so is someting up between contact on this ting to the led on other end .
That might actually be good news! As suggested by @hornethandler, check the solder/joints. Under high magnification if you can...
Hard to tell exactly from the picture, but I see what appears to be several surface mount resistors and capacitors on the circuit board. All those can be tested and are readily available from a source like Digi-Key. If it's one of those, you might be in great shape. $5.00 repair 😀
Thanks for the pictures of the whole circuit board btw. They help. 👍
Last edited by crconsulting; 04-16-2023 at 04:05 PM.
the led light work if put electric direct on the led ,its light, so is something up between contact on this ting to the led on other end .
Sounds promising! If it's out of your wheelhouse (not something you're ready to take on) there may be an electronics repair place that would be willing to take a look. I'm sure it's a basic circuit and should be repairable.
Can you post an in focus, close up picture of both sides of the board?
Also, how much voltage did you apply to the LED?
Last edited by hornethandler; 04-16-2023 at 04:43 PM.
Now that you have manufacturer, it’s easier to narrow down…
You’re on the right track, ZKW mfgred LED’s. They were distributed by OSRAM automotive lighting (though they are obsolete/discontinued) have a look below: I think one of them in the link below is the correct replacement part number. They come in yellow and white. 👍
Unfortunately listed as obsolete, but now we can narrow down the specification, if it turns out you or someone else ever need an LED replacement.
it's a long shot, but if you post a couple of close up pics of both sides of the board, I'll take a look for any defects that may be causing your problem.
Sounds promising! If it's out of your wheelhouse (not something you're ready to take on) there may be an electronics repair place that would be willing to take a look. I'm sure it's a basic circuit and should be repairable.
Can you post an in focus, close up picture of both sides of the board?
Also, how much voltage did you apply to the LED?
tryed scrape of black layer to measure, is actually one more like this conected up in the light, so its 2 of them, took electric from driver side circut, then upper started light, so is sensetive brain control this and switch of the electric when it dont get right feed back , to complicate it even more
tryed scrape of black layer to measure, is actually one more like this conected up in the light, so its 2 of them, took electric from driver side circut, then upper started light, so is sensetive brain control this and switch of the electric when it dont get right feed back , to complicate it even more
Are you saying you have two of these light fixtures and that one of them is working?
If so, and if you are familiar with how to use a multimeter, you stand a good chance of finding the fault.
The fixture in this pic looks a little different than the one in your posts above... one of the LED mounting holes is broken.
If you look at the 8 orange pads in this pic, the top right one appears to be a “plated through hole” solder connection. However, the solder does not appear to be adhering to the sides of the hole and may be causing an open circuit.
If you take a closer look and are confident that’s the case, you could try reflowing that connection.
The corner of that LED looks pretty suspect...
It should look like the first one posted. Even if it still works, Looks like that circuit got pretty hot.
Last edited by crconsulting; 04-17-2023 at 05:55 PM.
04-15-2023, 08:45 AM
but.
