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That’s a bummer,
Unfortunately at this point, the easy fix portion of the repair wasn’t successful….
Without a way of extracting possible codes, it will become more difficult. And throwing parts at it will be inefficient.
If you feel brave, you could see if the hydraulic reservoir in the trunk has fluid or if there are any leaks like @JettaRed ’s broken line issue. As surmised, at this point, your best bet with limited access to diagnostic equipment will be to get the dealer (or favorite independent) involved. As @jmattioni mentioned there are also several position sensors involved in the trunk closing cycle.
Without the ability to do my own repairs, the only value I can see in having a code reader is to keep a repair shop from giving me bogus information. This forum is an invaluable resource for this and the independent repair shops available to me are reputable.
That’s a bummer,
Unfortunately at this point, the easy fix portion of the repair wasn’t successful….
Without a way of extracting possible codes, it will become more difficult. And throwing parts at it will be inefficient.
If you feel brave, you could see if the hydraulic reservoir in the trunk has fluid or if there are any leaks like @JettaRed ’s broken line issue. As surmised, at this point, your best bet with limited access to diagnostic equipment will be to get the dealer (or favorite independent) involved. As @jmattioni mentioned there are also several position sensors involved in the trunk closing cycle.
Happy New Year, Good Luck, and keep us posted!
Thanks, I have been thinking about doing this. One possibility for the issue is a broken wire inside the trunk loom. I have read this has been found to be a problem in some SL350s in the past. Interestingly, when this problem first appeared, I tried pushing around on the left side and everything began working again. Unfortunately, it quit working just as quickly and I have not been able to get a similar outcome from further moving around the wire harness.
Thanks, I have been thinking about doing this. One possibility for the issue is a broken wire inside the trunk loom. I have read this has been found to be a problem in some SL350s in the past. Interestingly, when this problem first appeared, I tried pushing around on the left side and everything began working again. Unfortunately, it quit working just as quickly and I have not been able to get a similar outcome from further moving around the wire harness.
"Pushing around on the left side and everything began working." is a very encouraging sign.
Dig into that harness and see what you can find. With any luck it might be a simple splice repair.
Good luck!
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by RonNSoCal
Without the ability to do my own repairs, the only value I can see in having a code reader is to keep a repair shop from giving me bogus information. This forum is an invaluable resource for this and the independent repair shops available to me are reputable.
Totally up to you, but a proper scanner will help troubleshoot whether the problem is electronic/electrical or mechanical. If there are codes, that will help people help you and maybe keep you from wasting time poking around the wiring harness. If no codes, then it will help confirm you are on the right track. But, again, totally up to you.
No codes found by independent MB shop. I will be dropping off the car on Monday to hopefully have it fixed.
Mike at White Oak Mercedes Repair in Thousand Oaks tracked down a broken wire and repaired, total cost, under $400. I am so happy to have this problem resolved and to have found a repair shop that appears to have such high level talent.
Mike at White Oak Mercedes Repair in Thousand Oaks tracked down a broken wire and repaired, total cost, under $400. I am so happy to have this problem resolved and to have found a repair shop that appears to have such high level talent.
I wish I could find a good Indy in my town. Glad you got it fixed.
I guess this wire is flexed every time the trunk is opened and when the roof is cycled up or down?
It is, as with the doors. I think it should be designed with strain relief built into the wiring harness. Unfortunately as we’ve seen, sometimes it is not installed properly and some questions remain on the integrity of the design.
It is, as with the doors. I think it should be designed with strain relief built into the wiring harness. Unfortunately as we’ve seen, sometimes it is not installed properly and some questions remain on the integrity of the design.
It’s an area to watch and perhaps needs a “mod”….
Could the strain release thingies for the hydraulic lines work on the top wires? Anyone have the part numbers?
Could the strain release thingies for the hydraulic lines work on the top wires?
Doubtful, the wire loom is a larger diameter and has a few wires in it. A wiring loom will have different elastic properties than the plastic hydraulic lines, so a different solution will likely be needed. Sometimes it’s an issue with the length of the wires being too short to properly flex. Sometimes a rubber sleeve will help. It just depends on the shortcomings of the design, if that’s the issue. Could be an installation issue at the factory. None of the cars I’ve worked on seem to have this issue yet.
Doubtful, the wire loom is a larger diameter and has a few wires in it. A wiring loom will have different elastic properties than the plastic hydraulic lines, so a different solution will likely be needed. Sometimes it’s an issue with the length of the wires being too short to properly flex. Sometimes a rubber sleeve will help. It just depends on the shortcomings of the design, if that’s the issue. Could be an installation issue at the factory. None of the cars I’ve worked on seem to have this issue yet.
Thanks. I'll keep an eye out for deterioration of my wires. Cold temps like we are having now might also be a factor but I think the fellow who had this issue is in Southern CA, no cold weather there, but maybe he didn't buy it new and it started out in Montana.
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