SL-Class (R231) 2013 on: Discussion on the SL550

SL/R231: Suspension creaking and popping

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Old Apr 28, 2026 | 04:18 PM
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Suspension creaking and popping

For the past several months, I have a popping and/or creaking sound from the front suspension when driving slowly and turning the steering wheel, such as when backing out of the drive, making a right or left hand turn, etc. For the life of me, I can’t figure this out. The car is 11 years old, almost 63,000 miles, and has original suspension. Any ideas what to check?
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Old Apr 29, 2026 | 08:00 PM
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Today, I pulled the wheels off today to check some of the suspension components, primarily the sway bar end links. Everything seems fine. Normally, when reinstalling, I use a torque limiting extension bar rated for 90 ft-lbs. I thought I had read somewhere the requirement was 89 ft-lbs, but I’m now thinking that I got confused with the requirement for my Audi. I double-checked the required torque setting on the SL and it is 96 ft-lbs.

So, with wheels on the ground, I got my torque wrench and torqued the wheel bolts to 96 ft-lbs. Since then, I have not had any suspension popping (though I haven't driven a lot). I'll keep an eye on things, but wouldn't that be a kicker if it was the wheel bolt torque causing the problem?
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Old Apr 29, 2026 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by PotatoHeadII
For the past several months, I have a popping and/or creaking sound from the front suspension when driving slowly and turning the steering wheel, such as when backing out of the drive, making a right or left hand turn, etc. For the life of me, I can’t figure this out. The car is 11 years old, almost 63,000 miles, and has original suspension. Any ideas what to check?
Originally Posted by PotatoHeadII
Today, I pulled the wheels off today to check some of the suspension components, primarily the sway bar end links. Everything seems fine. Normally, when reinstalling, I use a torque limiting extension bar rated for 90 ft-lbs. I thought I had read somewhere the requirement was 89 ft-lbs, but I’m now thinking that I got confused with the requirement for my Audi. I double-checked the required torque setting on the SL and it is 96 ft-lbs.

So, with wheels on the ground, I got my torque wrench and torqued the wheel bolts to 96 ft-lbs. Since then, I have not had any suspension popping (though I haven't driven a lot). I'll keep an eye on things, but wouldn't that be a kicker if it was the wheel bolt torque causing the problem?
There were certainly reports of lug bolts causing ticking noises on other models and yes reseating them fixed it, other cases are simply the dust shield. As well of course of bad CV as well, likely yours is good though.

Last edited by W205C43PFL; Apr 29, 2026 at 08:21 PM.
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Old May 1, 2026 | 06:57 AM
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not likely the same thing but ... https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...on-4matic.html
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Old May 2, 2026 | 08:57 PM
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Thanks, but no, not like mine. No clicking sound, but more of a creaking and occasional pop. Some AI said to check the upper strut bearing. But as I said above, since I torqued the wheel bots to 96 ft-lb (130 Nm), the noise has stopped.
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Old May 3, 2026 | 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by PotatoHeadII
Thanks, but no, not like mine. No clicking sound, but more of a creaking and occasional pop. Some AI said to check the upper strut bearing. But as I said above, since I torqued the wheel bots to 96 ft-lb (130 Nm), the noise has stopped.
Glad to hear! Glad to hear that the annoying sound didn't come back!
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Old May 6, 2026 | 10:06 PM
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UPDATE: The creaking has diminished mostly, but I did hear it again. It happens when driving slowly and changing directions, turning, backing up, etc. So, I got to thinking what else could it be. Then I remembered that this “problem” was pretty recent. And, I changed my pads and rotors just as recently. So, I decided to torque the calipers to the steering knuckle (the calipers and carrier are one piece) to the specified amount, which is 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs) plus 45°. Before, I just torqued them to Guten Tighten. Well, Guten Tighten was no where near what they needed to be, especially that last 45°. I am happy to say that I’ve driven the car a couple of times in the same place and way that caused the creaking/popping sound before and no more sound.

The moral of the story is to always follow the recommended torque settings using a torque wrench and not by feel.

Last edited by PotatoHeadII; May 6, 2026 at 10:07 PM.
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Old May 7, 2026 | 05:14 AM
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Great news!
In the future if you like more involvement you might want to provide more info. What model and which suspension you have(springs or ABC), etc. Easily helps with troubleshooting...
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Old May 7, 2026 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by PotatoHeadII
UPDATE: The creaking has diminished mostly, but I did hear it again. It happens when driving slowly and changing directions, turning, backing up, etc. So, I got to thinking what else could it be. Then I remembered that this “problem” was pretty recent. And, I changed my pads and rotors just as recently. So, I decided to torque the calipers to the steering knuckle (the calipers and carrier are one piece) to the specified amount, which is 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs) plus 45°. Before, I just torqued them to Guten Tighten. Well, Guten Tighten was no where near what they needed to be, especially that last 45°. I am happy to say that I’ve driven the car a couple of times in the same place and way that caused the creaking/popping sound before and no more sound.

The moral of the story is to always follow the recommended torque settings using a torque wrench and not by feel.
nice catch!
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Old May 9, 2026 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolfman
Great news!
In the future if you like more involvement you might want to provide more info. What model and which suspension you have(springs or ABC), etc. Easily helps with troubleshooting...
Good point. I have the SL400 with standard conventional suspension.
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Old May 10, 2026 | 07:18 PM
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Ugh! The creaking/popping is back.I think I’m down to sway bar links or the actual struts. I will hit the sway bar bushings with some penetrating lube, as well.
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Old May 11, 2026 | 08:12 AM
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Ball joints you have a dry ball joint or tie rod end. This is typical on 11-year-old

When you hear it you need the help somebody to turn the steering wheel and somebody to put their hand on each joint. While you do it to figure out which one is dry then replace the ball joint or in this case replace the arm
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