AMGfan

I am contemplating on getting a 450SL as a project car. Since this will be my first serious venture into classic car territory, I am wondering if there is a certain year that is considered the best year for the 450SL?

Back in the day, my dad had a 1979 450SL that was black/red color combo. I'd like to see if I can restore similar to that one...Thanks ahead of time.

Skylaw

I bought a '78 450SL about 3 months ago - love it! Work progresses, but I do drive it on weekends. It will go in for a new ragtop this week, plus some new driver seat springs and padding.

I hate to refer you to a different forum, but there is a LOT of information on the R107 forum on BenzWorld, including model year recommendations. You should absolutely read the links in the "We'll probably ask... so read this first" sticky on that forum. TONS of good information before you buy.

Pics of mine are at post #31 at https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...er-cars-2.html - I warn you, however, that I have spent double the purchase price on maintenance and repairs in just the 3 months since buying. Here's the rundown:

Repairs/maintenance since purchase:
--5 Tires w/nitrogen fill: $440.44 (My tires were so bad I used a private, off-brand supposedly made by Bridgestone just to get new rubber on the road that day. Will replace with a high quality set after restoration is complete).
--"Lifetime" alignment: $228.97 - Hey, they're close by and convenient, and I can have it done every 6 months if need be. Despite screwing up the tire balancing, they did a great alignment job. I watched.
--Safety checks/recall compliance (two of the recalls are VERY important), purge and replace all fluids and filters (transmission, differential, coolant, brakes, windshield, oil); remove & inspect master brake cylinder for leaks (OK); lube; replace steering coupler; replace both window switches; remove driver's door panel and fix armrest bolt "U" clip; replace antenna grommet; replace driver’s seat belt and retractor: Total, $2268.26 (Dealer)
--Touch-up paint (Code 932, Lapis Blue) $34.24 (Dealer)
--Coverlay Dash cover: $129.99 (JC Whitney)
--Chromed plastic seat trim, 4 pieces: $88.10 (PartsGeek.com)
--Seat belt retainer guides: $108.67 (ebay seller)
--Replacement owner’s manual: $43.90 (books4cars.com)
--Install new fuel line: $130.12 (Dealer)
--Replace rear flex disc in driveline: $325.00 (Dealer)
--Replace transmission mount: $271 (Dealer)
--Re-balance tires after tire shop screwed it up: $60 (Dealer) Tire shop also told me I needed $500 worth of steering components that dealer said I absolutely did not need, and they misdiagnosed the cause of play in the steering (it was the steering coupler). I did not replace the steering components - only the coupler. Allow only certified MB techs or certified indies to diagnose the mechanical systems of your car.
--Fuel system cleaner, light bulbs, fuses, polish, car care: $53.52 (Auto parts store). Techron fuel system cleaner has improved engine smoothness overall, and has apparently gotten rid of grunge on the fuel level sensor so that the fuel gauge accuracy is improving! With a 22 gallon tank, I was initially getting an "Empty" reading after using only 10 gallons. Now, after using 10 gallons the gauge reads half full (there is a reserve that is just over 1 gallon).
--Halogen bulb for fog light, $35 (Auto parts store)
--Driver side under dash panel: $96.44 (From ebay seller, car being parted out; there are no new ones)
--Burl wood center console box: $181.77 (Performance Auto - performanceparts4benz.com)
--New headlight surrounds (called headlight "doors"): $102.00 (Foreign Car Parts - FCPGroton.com)
--Garmin Nuvi 885t Navigation unit with Bluetooth phone capability: $402.30 (Best Buy)
--Replace damaged/missing wood trim with burl wood, self-installed, approx. $525 (Performance Auto)
--Windshield washer pump, self-installed: $75 (FCP Groton)
--In-Cabin temperature sensor: $15 (Forum contributor, car being parted out; there are no new ones).
--New roof locking handle set: $31 (FCP Groton)
--Replace damaged glove box and trim panel behind headlight switch, $75 (Forum contributor, car being parted out).
--Trace & repair wiring problems for cigarette lighter, overhead lights, door courtesy light switch, fog lights, and emergency flasher (self, no $ cost)
--Replace all 5 passenger compartment/glove box courtesy lights (self-installed): $15.00 (PartsGeek.com) - Old ones were broken, yellow, and very brittle.
--Replace driver seat padding (horsehair) and 2 springs, approx. $275
--Replace canvas top, approx. $1,250 - High quality canvas custom sewn with new windows, $600; installation labor $575, rest is tax.

Anticipated expenses:
--Replace ignition lock cylinder and 2 new keys, $440.
--Replace shifter box bushings (for accurate shift lever movement): $182.25
--Engine work: Tune up, filters, check valve lubrication brackets & timing chain guides: $500
--Trace wiring problem for bright headlight indicator bulb on instrument panel (self; it wasn't the bulb)
--Lubricate A/C blower fan bearings (self) – low cost, but difficult and time consuming.
--Unclog evaporator coil/heater coil drains (self)
--Replace all weatherstripping: $350, self-installed MB parts
--Repair or replace sun visors: $100 to $250.
--Replace muffler w/stainless steel: $350.
--Eliminate body rust (Trunk, rocker panels, hood, under parcel shelf) – approx. $1,500
--Repaint, approx. $3,000 – $4,000.

After that, it will be normal maintenance & repair of a 31 year old classic car. Another good source of OE parts is MB's own Classic Car Center, reachable through the MBUSA web site.

Of course, the car was quite drivable after I replaced the tires (they were dry rotted and extremely dangerous) and had safety checks done, the fuel line and steering coupler replaced, and all the fluids changed. Replacing the steering coupler got rid of the dangerous 6" total play in the steering. The fuel line burst on me while I was starting it at the dealership - prior owner had installed it improperly, minus a small but important "C" shaped section of hose. The rest, I just wanted done sooner rather than later - much of it could have been deferred. But as it is, it's a blast to drive (except in the rain - it leaks like a sieve until weatherstripping is replaced), and it draws lots of looks and some rave comments.

Get one, and have a ball. Avoid those having only a single timing chain, unless the dual chain modification has been added. '78 and later have fewer problems with overheating some engine components because the catalytic converters were placed too close in some earlier model years. The ACC II air conditioning control setup that I have (a large square control box in the middle of the console fascia) can be problematic. If you're handier than I am, you can save money on repairs. Since you're in Tampa - I have been recommended the name of some local indies with a lot of experience in Mercedes of this vintage, but I have not yet had chance to use any of them. I will use one of them for the engine work; and a local upholstery shop is doing the top and driver's seat work. We'll see how that goes. Meantime, MB of Tampa (near Raymond James Stadium) has one very good tech with a lot of experience on these cars (his last name is Cavagnaro). See Service Advisor Dan Willing - he will get your car to him. Plus, both Dan and the Service Department Manager are avid classic car restorers in their own right. As a dealership, they are expensive, but have done good work for me.