wayoverthere

Firstpost and first time on any forum.

I have just started a refurbishment on my 75 280 SLC. New to all of this so please excuse any questions that may seem daft at the time.
I am in Thailand and the only info I can rely on is from sites like this one.
I will try to post photographs as the work goes.

First day was today and eventually got the front bumper and spoiler off.

The whole job started when I decided to replace the rotors and pads and discovered a 5 inch diameter hole behind the underseal on the firewall, noticed a small blister and poked with a screw driver.

Got most of the front wing bolts out today but as its 35 degrees and started getting warmer every day things are going slowly.

Next post with some photographs if anyone is interested.

abiby

Bring it on... No pics, it didn't happen.

Always love to watch others' projects.

wayoverthere

The goldwing is the next project.
Got all the bolts, screws etc out the wing.( Want to check behind the lower front on both sides to find out how far the bug has gone.)
Any bolts screws that are not obvious ?

abiby

Never been to that part of mine...yet.

Looks pretty nasty!

wayoverthere

Got the fender off and was pleasantly surprised to see only surface rust in the area.
Tomorrow will strip down the front bumper and it will go for blasting and powder coat.
hope the drivers side fender turns out the same.
Seen on some of the threads treatment known as POR-15. Don't know it here in Thailand. Anyone got a chemical name for it ?
Considering powder coat for the fender interior as well unless someone can tell me why not to.

Found details locally for POR-15. As they say ("Amazing Thailand" )

wayoverthere

Driver side fender off today.
Bit of a scare when so much stuff fell out but turned out to be mostly damp sand. A bit of rot at the bottom but again the rest stands up to being struck hard with a light hammer.
Next job will be interior out (seats etc ) and a good look around the areas inside at the bottom of the firewall.

So far minimum tool requirements.
one good metric socket set
one good set of open end with socket on the other end
one good set screw drivers
and the little strength I have left at my age.

A good Impact driver for the bottom 2 screws at base of fender

wayoverthere

Steering wheel removal
Got this from another forum site.
Anyone out there got anything to add ?

abiby

Yeah, the most important bit of information.

I believe your model will have the nut, but even if I'm wrong, the secret to removal is heat. Use a pencil torch to carefully heat the nut or screw. It is held by a locking material that will be released by the heat. Without the heat you will often strip the nut or screw. Some use foil or something similar to block the heat from other components in the wheel.

Other thing that I'm unsure of... With my '82, it's easier to remove the entire rubber center portion of the wheel rather than the star. Not sure about your model as the wheels look a bit different.

Other than those things, removal of the wheel is a piece of cake.

wayoverthere

Steering wheel off without too much trouble.
Seats out next to give some room in the footwells. Had originally thought about doing a lot to the dash but have now decided that the biggest job on it will be to replace the center consul as it is really tatty looking. In thailand we don't have heaters in the cars only AC so only minimum switches and controls to re-install.
Pictures are consul and back seat. All the seats were recovered by a local company for around 3500 thai baht, around 115 US, a year ago but a local mechanic sat on the front seats with overall on so they have to back again.


Just a late thought. This car has always been in thailand and has never seen salt on the roads. It seems obvious to me now but the rot inside the fender at the doors is there because the rubber seal against the fender was in very bad condition both sides. If you have a 107 get your head in and take a look.
The SAGA continues.

wayoverthere

Did this bit first just to give myself a feel good reaction before I start on the bad bits. Cleaned everything of using a flapper sand disk. Treated it with Rust-Solv which leaves a gray coloured finish, not black as I expected, primed and coated with gloss black.
Point on grinding, DON'T use grinding discs to remove old underseal, they can get impregnated quickly and shatter. ( 20 plus years experience in industry,
welding inspection and fabrication. )

Next will be the firewall, pick up the MIG welding machine tomorrow.

SG280SLC

I'm admiring your work from here in Singapore. If only I had some garage space and time! I also have a 280 SLC and am actually looking to have some major body work done in the next couple of months. Happy to share any information that I have.

wayoverthere

Hi SG,
Things have slowed down a bit but are stiil ongoing. You know what it's like trying to work in 30 plus.
Quick question to you and any others. What other model headlamps fit the 280 ?

SG280SLC

Headlamps - I believe the 107 headlamps are unique to the model. You can either chose the original look (aka Euro look) or the US twin lamp look. I prefer the former.

30-degree heat. Yeah, fully understand. I start perspiring the minute I get out of the car.

baco99

I hope things are progressing with the rebuild. I just picked up a 1981 380 SLC today. It's all there, but needs some refinishing. Interior is near mint for the age.

Let's compare notes.

Cheers

wayoverthere

Been a while since last post as things had been put on hold, overseas work etc, but got going again about 7 months ago.
While away termites finished eating the roof and it collapsed luckily stopping short of the car roof.
Garage had to be re-built so a further delay but eventually it all got started.
Total strip down and lots of new panels etc, inner sills, floor sections, bulkheads including re-enforcement cross beam but slowly getting there.
Paint job not brilliant but will re-do later.

wayoverthere

long time. are you still on the forum?