SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: Which Lowering Module?
Should I go for H&R, Kleeman, Carlsson or Renntech?
The Renntech has remote feature which is neat. The Carlsson one seems to be a very straight forward plug and play. The H&R seems to be the same as the Carlsson because I think the Carlsson one is developed by H&R. I don't know much about the Kleeman one though. I can't decide on which one.
I also want to know that if I lower the car with the module, will the car's suspension still lower the car when at speed? Would this be a problem and causing any sort of rubbing?
Also will the car's height raise when the car is shut off or will it still be at the lowered stance?
Thanks for the kind help.
Art
anyone have any recommendations please?
Trending Topics
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Don't do links. This will literally fool the ABC system and make it lower than it should be in certain situations. When ABC breaks down you won't be so happy about the savings.
Lots of modules have the same origin, namely http://www.ingbuerowilhelm.de/
It seems that the H&R, Brabus and Carlsson modules (amonst others) all find their origins there.
If you get a module, get one that does not require any wire cutting so that you can return the car 100% to its original state. Furthermore you don't want to rape the wiring harness of the car.
Get a module that is 100% adjustable so that you can get the exact setting you want.
Have your wheels aligned once lowering is done.
I believe the Carlsson module is the ideal module. You can have it programmed (by someone that can do more to this module than changing the dip-switches) to have it raise/lower at any speed you like. So e.g. below 10mph to lowest setting, above 10mph to something more practical, etc.
You can see a 10 minute installation video of the carlsson module here: http://carlsson.de/carlsson/en/downl...n%20Suspension
But as I said, proper installation requires programming of the module and alignment.
And you can read about it in the attached PDF. And here (german): http://carlsson.de/carlsson/pdf/down...rospekt-SL.pdf
Hope this helps. One final word of advice: Don't cut corners when lowering your 100,000 US$ car.
P.S. I myself don't have a lowering module as I am happy with my cars height.
It is somehow “easy” to install if you are used to electrical wires etc. as installing this is a matter of moving wires from originally plugs to a plug coming from the module. It’s a one-hour install!
The cars (SL65-AMG) ABC tree height (standard, one-level higher and highest) still works very nice. The “standard level” is there the lowered position is, and you then have two higher positions to go for, like for steep road sections etc.
The module also connects to the cars CAN H-L, but what function this gives, I don’t know!
It is somehow “easy” to install if you are used to electrical wires etc. as installing this is a matter of moving wires from originally plugs to a plug coming from the module. It’s a one-hour install!
The cars (SL65-AMG) ABC tree height (standard, one-level higher and highest) still works very nice. The “standard level” is there the lowered position is, and you then have two higher positions to go for, like for steep road sections etc.
The module also connects to the cars CAN H-L, but what function this gives, I don’t know!
Had it for about 7-8 months now. Works great.... no problems at all. Still able to raise the car up if I need to.
So lets see ... mechanical change or cutting/messing with the electronics system. Some people say they don't trust the links (???) its exactly the same think that Mercedes uses. The link looks exactly the same, it just happens to be height adjustable, while the Mercedes one is a solid 5 cent plastic piece.
Yes - links/washers/lowering modules all fool the factory computers. The problem with fooling the factory computer is that you inhibit it significantly. Let's say the factory allows for a value as low as 2 - this value corresponds to that suspension component's height. If you are conditioning the signal so that when it sends to the ECU the value of 2, it's really 1.5, you are essentially eliminating a lot of the precautionary/safety mechanisms built into the car that allow it to properly monitor the suspension components. We've all seen pictures of the RED SUSPENSION TOO LOW warning, as obviously MB knows it is a very dangerous condition, yet with lowering links most cars will never be able to see that warning because the ECU will not see the actual voltage values for the suspension components.
Furthermore, when lowering via STAR/SDS - you do not condition the signal. What you are doing when going in to the SDS is lowering the value to the lowest value allowed by the ECU. No, this does not allow you to slam the car to the point of having the wheels tucked into the fender wells, but our suspension systems were never designed for that kind of geometry to begin with. So in addition to staying within factory specifications - you also still retain all the factory diagnostic/adjusting/monitoring functions using the ACTUAL values, and not "conditioned ones".
Now I know SDS is not perfect either. Sometimes it doesn't stick, sometimes it's wacky, and anytime you modify factory settings you are risking failure. I simply think it is the least of 3 evils, especially given what modules cost as compared to what lowering via SDS typically runs.
You guys drive $100,000 cars. In my opinion, you should modify them properly. I understand not everyone has access to someone who can do lowering VIA SDS, but at least then use a module because it is an active suspension system that will at least so some adjusting as it sees it necessary, and it has tuner R&D behind it.
Just my $.02
-m
If I get someone to do it via the STAR/SDS method, the next time I take it into the dealer will they wipe it out if they do anything STAR related on my car?
If I get someone to do it via the STAR/SDS method, the next time I take it into the dealer will they wipe it out if they do anything STAR related on my car?
-m







