The small two channel JL amp (it's discontinued but you can pretty much use anything decent)...is in mono and pushes the center channel. The center channel is stock so the amp power is overkill but the gains have been pushed back...we always feel that to get the best sound out of a speaker we need to push the speaker way above it's rated power range and then pull back the gains...that way there is prodigious amounts of headroom when volume goes up.

I just see too many speakers underpowered and blow up because the amount of bad signal coming out of a smaller amp when volume increases is usually the culprit when a speaker craps out...

I love bass too and take it from me the 13" JL sub in the passenger footwell is all you need...it is discrete (esp. when the top is down) and the sound is fantastic. Yes...we considered the rear deck but I:

1. Wanted a stealthier look...a big plus.
2. To get it to look good (fiberglass and custom leather stitching to match the interier) was a heck of a lot more than the keeping it in the stock location. It can be done but you sacrifice a lot of room and $$$.
3. I wanted to maintain as much storage space as possible.

I wish you could sit in it...the bass is incredible.

Jon

PS Make sure whatever sub you get...make sure the amp is powerful and clean @ RMS. The JL13TW5's "happy place" for power is between 350 to 450 watts and we are using a JL 1000/1.

 

i ordered a 500/1 already.so i hope it will sound ok......i think as matched up w/ oem compared to yr Focal set up..hopefully will even it out well.

 

any chance u can post a pic of sub trim piece? you stated you didnt post a pic..thx alot

 

Vendetta...I looked through my file of pics and couldn't find a pic of the sub trim piece that isn't already covered up...sorry.

Jon

 

Np. Thx for looking. Muchly appreciated. I'm trying to figure out best way to protect sub and grill from foot Damage under carpet.

 

We did:

Enclosure
front face plate (flush with grill)
OEM carpet
Matt

That should be enough layers to protect the sub...people should be resting their feet in that area and not doing leg kicks so you should be fine...I haven't had any problems yet and the sound is fantastic...

 

Perfect. Thx for info. I'm picking up all my audio stuff tomm from drop shipper just across the border and hope to get installed soon. Stereo shop says they need car for 5 days. I've been w/o my car for 1 month as it's been at dealer dealing with dead batt issue. Hopefully
fixed by Saturday as they said I wad alarm and EIS. So fingers crossed. Once I get it back and it works with no Battery issues for a week or so I will take it in. Dealer always mentions my radars etc when an issue so need car working 100% as stock b4 I ad my sub etc. Thx again for the great thread and sub placement idea.

 

i have a couple questions and it seems the guys on this thread are the right people to ask.
2003 SL55
replacing the stock system with the following.
Head Unit - http://www.cargpsnet.com/mercedes-sl...oth-p-507.html
Subwoofer: JL Audio 13TW5
Amp JL Audio XD700/5
component speaker Focal K2 Power 130 KP 2-Way 5" (w/tweeters) speaker system
6.5" door speakers Focal

I will be leaving the following OEM speakers
Center speaker (In dash)
Rear speakers
tweeters (drivers kickpanel & passenger under glove box)

My question is how do i wire up these speakers directly to the head unit as the amp is being used for all the other speakers. Main concern is the center speaker and rears.
thank you in advance

 

In case you are expecting a prompt response from someone in this thread, please be aware that the most recent post in this thread was nearly 7 years ago!

 

Yes i know, i dont really have many options. haha. Any help would be very appreciated.

 

you can buy that head-unit you linked directly from the manufacturer (hualingan) for nearly 200 less http://www.aliexpress.com/store/prod...761468093.html

AND, they have an android based version available now as well
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Car-D...3-7c92ed30acab

the speakers in the kick panels are NOT tweeters ... they are just small speakers for the phone/teleaid

wire your front center as a center channel from the new headunit's front channel (combine left and right output for a center channel)

wire the rear channel output of the new head unit to the small rear speakers mounted near the roll bar ( these are currently wired as a mono fill channel, you want to re-wire them as left and right)

use your new 5 channel amp to power the door speakers and a new sub woofer.

Cheers,
Chris

 

worth mentioning ... the "fiber decoder" option they mention is a "MOST" decoder (decoder/interface presumably) . It is ONLY for the later R230s that used the MOST fiber optic set-up (2005 and later IIRC).

You may or may not want to get the "fiber bypass harness". It is a $25 option that is an extender harness that brings the new headunit's outputs to the new amp (presumably mounted behind the driver's seat in place of the old BOSE d2b amp). When I did this install in my 2003, I did not use the extender harness, but instead I just extended the harness with a good quality 9-conductor car-audio cable.

Cheers,
Chris

 

Thank you for the info. I'm new to the radio stuff so maybe you can dummy it down a bit for me. from the head unit i'm running cables to the amp using the Front L & R, Rear L & R and sub woofer connections (5 connections total) then from the amp i'm powering the doors (4 speakers), 2 tweeters, and sub
at this point i have no more connections to run the center speaker or the rear speakers. like i said i am an engine/exhaust guy so please be patient. and thank you for your help.

 

Assuming that you are using the headunit that you and I linked AND, assuming you are putting your new amp where the old amp was mounted ....

You will want to extend ALL of its out puts to the amp "area"

The new head unit will have both speaker AND pre-amp outputs (L&R front, L&R rear and SUB).


This is my choice for extending the pre-amp outputs (head unit outputs with rca connectors) https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SI461...nger+6+channel
(the unused 6th rca, you can use to connect your back-camera if you like)

...and this was my choice for extending the speaker level outputs to the "amp area" behind the drivers seat https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGW99...Z3V9KS4NFF04R7
You can of course use any wire you choose for these tasks (you can even use the "fiber extender harness" that vendors for this head unit offer).


At the "amp area" you will remove the old amp and identify all of the bose amp outputs. (see PDF below)


Using the front channel "speaker level" wires that you have extended to the "amp area" , connect the RF + to the + of the middle speaker (in dash) and LF- to the - of the middle speaker ( to create a center channel). you will not use RF - and LF + (tape these off individually).


Run a new pair of wires to one of the rear fill speakers mounted near the roll bar. Connect the Rear channel speaker level outputs to the left and right rear speakers, respectively.

Connect the door speaker wires to the new amp (or your new speakers if you are replacing them, I didn't). Connect the Sub wires to your new amp (after replacing SUB, factory sub is likely to low in impedance for your new amp).


I used a cerwin vega 8" Subwoofer and modified the factory sub enclosure and am happy with the results (I don't need super big bass, so your needs may be different).



If you go with an android unit, you may want to add usb ports where the phone kit used to be


I will add some info about the AMP I chose in the next post ....

 

.... I chose an ALPINE PDR-V75 amp which really worked out well for the space in terms of installation and access to adjustment controls (once installed)


hope that helps,
Chris

 

I've replaced most of the original Bose equipment.. New HU, reused old equipment I've had in storage fore a few years such as dsp, amps etc.. Also did the a-pillars and installed 3,5" midrange (200-16000hz) which gives good soundstage - still using original Bose door speakers and sub..

I disconnected the dash and rear speakers - don't miss them at all.. Good time alignment and a quick tweak and this system sounds great...

Everything is placed where cd changer and Bose amp is (in storage behind driver seat) so beside the a pillars nothing is visible (well of coarse the new head unit differs from stock but I can live with that)..

Also installed a rear view cam... That's great..

Will build a new sub enclosure but that's in the future - first steps are to fix the abc but that's another story..

 

Thank you for all the help. We got the radio/speakers installed as well as the whole interior redone with new suede and leather. We got the dash and center console in and went to test the radio. (New battery installed) i turn the ignition to the on postion, the headlights come on, dome light comes on, radio lights come on then immediately shut off and the gauge cluster does nothing.
We are yet to start looking for the issue. does anyone have an recommendations? We were pretty methodical in the way we uninstalled and reinstalled the interior. Any opinions could help. thank you!!

 

ISSUE RESOLVED!!

 

Does your head unit work with the steering wheel controls? I've seen some setups where they do work, but I haven't seen one yet for an R230

 

steering wheel controls work with this setup, http://www.aliexpress.com/store/prod...761468093.html

 

Is the link working for anyone? I can't seem to load it on my pc or phone

 

that link does not work for me ... is it right? I'd be curious to see what you ended up with.

glad to hear you got it all working properly.

Chris

 

Same here, link is not working!

 

that link is the link that you originally posted on here a few weeks back. scroll up.

 

I think those units only work on command 1.0 with the 03-04 cars right?