SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: Is there an SL55 IC PUMP DIY Replacement guide?
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 801
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From: South Florida
SL65
Is there an SL55 IC PUMP DIY Replacement guide?
I know there is one for the E55.
Also, I heard the Johnson pump has so much flow that it can actually be detrimental....? I read it could cause to much pressure? Any truth to this?
Also, I heard the Johnson pump has so much flow that it can actually be detrimental....? I read it could cause to much pressure? Any truth to this?
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 801
Likes: 2
From: South Florida
SL65
Anyone know where it is located on the SL55? I'm going with the CM30 Johnson Pump.
Does anyone here with an SL55 actually get their hands dirty sometimes?
Does anyone here with an SL55 actually get their hands dirty sometimes?
Last edited by FLSL55; Jun 9, 2009 at 02:41 PM.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,703
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From: Arizona
SL55AMG, Ferrari 348, Ferrari Testarossa, Ferrari F40, Ferrari Mondial t, Ducati 916, Indycar
I just did mine last week. It is very easy.
1. Lift front/right of car.
2. Remove front wheel
3. Remove front fender liner
4. IC pump is located in the wheel well, just ahead of the wheel, towards the bottom.
5. Remove bracket holding pump
6. Remove vacuum line from back of pump
7. Remove electrical connection
8. Carefully clamp the 2 hoses from the IC pump in order to minimize coolant spill.
9. Squeeze hose clamps to loosen hoses, and remove hoses from pump.
10. Slide rubber bushing off of old pump and put on new pump.
11. Install in reverse order
If this takes 2 hours, you watched TV for an hour of the time! If I remember correctly you only need a 10mm and 8mm socket for the job.
If you keep the coolant loss to a minimum you won't need to bleed the system. I think that should do it!
1. Lift front/right of car.
2. Remove front wheel
3. Remove front fender liner
4. IC pump is located in the wheel well, just ahead of the wheel, towards the bottom.
5. Remove bracket holding pump
6. Remove vacuum line from back of pump
7. Remove electrical connection
8. Carefully clamp the 2 hoses from the IC pump in order to minimize coolant spill.
9. Squeeze hose clamps to loosen hoses, and remove hoses from pump.
10. Slide rubber bushing off of old pump and put on new pump.
11. Install in reverse order
If this takes 2 hours, you watched TV for an hour of the time! If I remember correctly you only need a 10mm and 8mm socket for the job.
If you keep the coolant loss to a minimum you won't need to bleed the system. I think that should do it!
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 801
Likes: 2
From: South Florida
SL65
Dino,
Thanks for the DIY! I hope they sticky this in the SL55 section! Your the man!
I think bleeding the system is a good idea no matter what. I heard there is no way for the air to escape if you don't do it. It can't make it to the expansion tank.
Thanks for the DIY! I hope they sticky this in the SL55 section! Your the man!
I think bleeding the system is a good idea no matter what. I heard there is no way for the air to escape if you don't do it. It can't make it to the expansion tank.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,703
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From: Arizona
SL55AMG, Ferrari 348, Ferrari Testarossa, Ferrari F40, Ferrari Mondial t, Ducati 916, Indycar
I didn't bleed mine and it is running fine. The bleeding procedure on the service disc is fairly involved and used some special tools, including the STAR tool. I figured I would see if I minimized the loss if it would make a difference and it did. With my Ferrari's there is never a way to get around bleeding, but it is very easy to do.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: South Florida
SL65
Here is the bleeding info from the E55. It should be the same with ours. I hope. Thanks to BrianS for this info below.
Bleed the circuit from the capped nipple using a clear hose so you can see when there are no more bubble in coming out. Just like bleeding brakes. It's that easy. In order to bleed the line of air the pump has to be running. Start the car and the pump should run for about a minute or two until no more bubbles come out in the clear hose. After that I pulled off the hose real quick and put on the plug.
You need to bleed the system as there is NO return from the IC cooling circuit to the reservoir, any air trapped in the system is stuck there until you bleed it.
Bleed the circuit from the capped nipple using a clear hose so you can see when there are no more bubble in coming out. Just like bleeding brakes. It's that easy. In order to bleed the line of air the pump has to be running. Start the car and the pump should run for about a minute or two until no more bubbles come out in the clear hose. After that I pulled off the hose real quick and put on the plug.
You need to bleed the system as there is NO return from the IC cooling circuit to the reservoir, any air trapped in the system is stuck there until you bleed it.
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Member
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Oakdale, CT
2003 SL55 AMG
Is there a relay that controls the IC pump or is it always on when the car is running? I recently installed a Johnson pump, but it doesn't seem to be working. It doesnt appear to have any power to the pump.
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