SL55 AMG, SL63 AMG, SL65 AMG (R230) 2002 - 2011 (2003 US for SL55 and 2004 for the SL65)

SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: Vario roof not working? Might be your Trunk Flap. Easy Fix DIY

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Old 08-21-2010, 11:39 PM
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08 ML350, 2011 E550 Cab
Vario roof not working? Might be your Trunk Flap. Easy Fix DIY

If your Vario roof stops working one day, it could be that the trunk flap is not sitting tight against the trunk lid. Sensors monitor the positions of these flaps, and these sensors might not be tripped by a flap that is sagging too low. I never had problems with my roof not working, but after reading through various posts of others that had, i decided to check out the condition of my flaps. To my surprise my passenger flap was sagging quite a bit (my drivers side was fine). I then discovered that Mercedes released an updated part to resolve this issue. The new part is heavily reinforced and will resist bending much better than the original part.
Also, don't bother with the adjusting screws as they don't work very well for adjusting the tension of the flap. I ordered the new supporting parts from parts.com. The came as a pair, so i decided to install both sides. This way i will never have to worry about my top being stuck because of a silly cheap part.
Here are some pics and instructions for changing the parts.
The right side took 20 min. , and the left side took 10 min. because i new what i was doing after learning from the right. Basic tools are all that's needed, and very little skill.







Old 08-21-2010, 11:41 PM
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Old 09-13-2010, 02:20 AM
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Nice tutorial. I had the same problem with my SL and man it was a headache to figure out that problem.
Old 06-08-2011, 08:42 PM
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So are you doing this with the truck open? Is it the torque bolts that are holding the new parts in?
Old 06-13-2011, 04:30 PM
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SL 55 AMG
Niklein,

Have same problem and tried to fix but the new part didn't fit quite well and I accidentally broke the whole bracket that houses the gearing. Any idea on cost to fix from dealer? Could I replace myself? Any help appreciated. Thanks.

Scott
Old 07-24-2011, 03:19 PM
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Will this part you recommend from parts.com work on a 2003 SL55?
Old 07-24-2011, 09:56 PM
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hey champ,

I am quite sure it will. I just had this same issue on my 03 a few months ago. I had MB do the work though because it was covered under my after market warranty.
Old 09-12-2011, 12:55 PM
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Perfect!!!

one of my flaps is sagging and rattling. This is just what I needed to fix my issues. Many Thanks!!!
-O
Old 09-19-2011, 10:44 AM
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Did the fix on my right flap Sat night. Had a little issue with the cable drive not fitting in to the new piece. Had to do some filing to get it to fit down in properly. All done and working properly again.

The old past was clearly bent in the middle and the gear drive was barely making contact with cable drive. Would have failed completely in just a short time.

Last edited by rsr911; 09-19-2011 at 10:47 AM.
Old 03-13-2012, 06:05 AM
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Flap Exchange procedure?

Hi,

Thanks so much for your very informative thread on how to fix a "drooping flap". This happened to mine this weekend so I was able to readily order the part and it is one its way.

Quick question.... I believe the car has a timer on how long the roof will stay open (7 minutes?) with the car running and less than that with it turned off.

Assuming this repair takes longer than 7 minutes then how did you keep the roof open to change out all of the bolts/ nuts / flap?

Thanks...David
Old 05-25-2012, 10:38 PM
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flap snug after fix and top starts to open but the flap droops down during opening stopping the operation. when its held up flush with the trunk edge it goes down. could the cable be stretched? Holding up I see that it engages a microswtich. This happened after I replaced the support fitting as in the diy thread.

Last edited by mersue1; 05-27-2012 at 12:49 PM.
Old 06-03-2012, 11:00 PM
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I am having the the same issue. replaced the part and fits snug when top is not open. once open flap falls when closing and have to hold the switch on the console and the flap without getting in the way of the windows when they go up. Anybody have ideas? thanks
Old 06-04-2012, 01:38 AM
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After posting I looked at the new part again. I had to tap it on to the cable. it was not seating all the way down and the cable end was moving in and out of the new part.
Old 06-04-2012, 01:45 AM
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groves 77

I didn't notice there is an ajustible nut on the end of the cable beyond the replaced part. This well shorten the cable resulting in the rear flap to stay snug against the upper trunk margin engaging the microswitch to continue top operation.
Old 07-12-2012, 08:35 PM
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a few cars, few bikes,04 SL55
NikleinR6 you're da Man!!!!

Thanks brotha!!!
Old 08-11-2012, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by nsxguy
NikleinR6 you're da Man!!!!

Thanks brotha!!!
+1 THE FORUM RULES...top failed; I did a search and BANG!

Thanks to all...
Old 09-09-2012, 01:31 PM
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Roof Flaps not folding

Thanks for your post! Solved my problem quickly after an 871.00 non-repair,two return trips to the dealer and two road-side service calls.Highway (pun intended) Robbery.Certainly even "high end" dealers have not the highest of scruples.
Old 03-22-2013, 09:57 PM
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Thank you sir!

popped for the parts at the dealer - but save a couple hundred bucks on Mech and no loss of car! - great to spend a day off fussing w my car as well - awesome!

Thanks!
Old 03-24-2013, 06:56 AM
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I appreciate you guys for your efforts in making the forum's worth. I am having a problem with a vehicle I am currently working on and need full technical video and full description on how to go about this repair.
Car Model: Mercedes Benz SLK 300 (Model R171)
Problem: Vario roof not working.

Using a scan tool gives

DTC 9010: The supply voltage of the control unit is too low (undervoltage). The voltage was less tha 8.5V during 5sec;

9910: S118 (Tubular frame open limit switch), S119 (Tubular frame open limit switch): switching status not plausible Both directions might be operated;

9927: The Limit switch states indicate an invalid Vario roof position.

Using Data Monitoring mode, the following where displayed:

008: Rear left power window blocking not recognized
009: Rear Left power window position down not recognized
010: Rear left power window position up not recorgnized
033: Position and function of limit switch are OK the value state NO.
036: Vario roof position not defined
Channe no. 150 to 155 does not show any value
039: Locked end position not recognize.
142: Vario roof open not recognize
145: CAN front power window down: Not recognize
146: Luggaged compactement division not closed
148: Pump Temparature 40 degC (104 deg F) *
150: Hydraulic close.......
151 Hydraulic Open........
152: Backup transistor........
153: Solenoid Valve A7/5y1......
154: Actuation of hydraulic in close direction.......
155: Actuation of hydraulic in open direction........

* Please what is the expected Temparature
Old 03-25-2013, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by kingscarnotmech
I appreciate you guys for your efforts in making the forum's worth. I am having a problem with a vehicle I am currently working on and need full technical video and full description on how to go about this repair.
Car Model: Mercedes Benz SLK 300 (Model R171)
Problem: Vario roof not working.

Using a scan tool gives

DTC 9010: The supply voltage of the control unit is too low (undervoltage). The voltage was less tha 8.5V during 5sec;

9910: S118 (Tubular frame open limit switch), S119 (Tubular frame open limit switch): switching status not plausible Both directions might be operated;

9927: The Limit switch states indicate an invalid Vario roof position.

Using Data Monitoring mode, the following where displayed:

008: Rear left power window blocking not recognized
009: Rear Left power window position down not recognized
010: Rear left power window position up not recorgnized
033: Position and function of limit switch are OK the value state NO.
036: Vario roof position not defined
Channe no. 150 to 155 does not show any value
039: Locked end position not recognize.
142: Vario roof open not recognize
145: CAN front power window down: Not recognize
146: Luggaged compactement division not closed
148: Pump Temparature 40 degC (104 deg F) *
150: Hydraulic close.......
151 Hydraulic Open........
152: Backup transistor........
153: Solenoid Valve A7/5y1......
154: Actuation of hydraulic in close direction.......
155: Actuation of hydraulic in open direction........

* Please what is the expected Temparature
I suggest you cross post this on the SLK forum.
Old 06-15-2013, 11:46 AM
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Just ordered the parts, flaps in position, need to lower top

Just ordered the parts, flaps in position, need to lower top. Until I get the parts I need to lower the top or raise it would be nice. Hung up in half way position. checked that flap micro switched are engaged, still wont complete cycle. Is there a reset procedure? Or a way to get the top all the way down so I can drive it? Thanks, Stu

2003 SL55 AMG
Old 08-10-2013, 04:30 PM
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I just completed this fix. A couple of helpful hints. These relate to replacing the parts when your top is stuck in the closed position.
1) The new parts come untapped for the torx bolts. The bolts are self tapping.
2) Before installing the new parts loosen the cable adjusters by screwing them counterclockwise about 4 full turns.
3) You need to tap with a hammer the new part onto the cable adjuster so that the slot on the adjuster has enough room for the new part to slide into.
4) When attaching the new part to the flap make sure the flap is in the up position and the cable is routed behind the flap.
5) After the flaps are re-attached you will need to adjust the tension of the flaps so that they are tight to the trunk carpet. Do this by turning the cable adjuster clockwise, then tighten the lock nut.

These hints will make more sense once you are trying to figure out how to put ii back together. The second one takes 15 minutes, the first one you do will take a lot longer.
It definitely solves the problem though. You will see that the original parts bend enough so the gears do not engage.
Old 03-08-2014, 03:30 PM
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Same Problem

Originally Posted by Sunline
I just completed this fix. A couple of helpful hints. These relate to replacing the parts when your top is stuck in the closed position.
1) The new parts come untapped for the torx bolts. The bolts are self tapping.
2) Before installing the new parts loosen the cable adjusters by screwing them counterclockwise about 4 full turns.
3) You need to tap with a hammer the new part onto the cable adjuster so that the slot on the adjuster has enough room for the new part to slide into.
4) When attaching the new part to the flap make sure the flap is in the up position and the cable is routed behind the flap.
5) After the flaps are re-attached you will need to adjust the tension of the flaps so that they are tight to the trunk carpet. Do this by turning the cable adjuster clockwise, then tighten the lock nut.

These hints will make more sense once you are trying to figure out how to put ii back together. The second one takes 15 minutes, the first one you do will take a lot longer.
It definitely solves the problem though. You will see that the original parts bend enough so the gears do not engage.
I am having the same problem, I have been told my several dealerships that you cannot simply replace the bolts that you also need to replace the cable because it gets stretched out. Is this true? Seems like they just want me to spend more than necessary. I have also tried to purchase the parts and have the dealer install them but they refuse saying they won't be responsible for the repair if they don't use parts that they purchased. I would like to do the repair myself but am not that mechanically inclined. Any suggestions?
Old 03-08-2014, 08:59 PM
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They are wrong. It is simply a part that was under engineered by Mercedes. The new part cures the problem without any need to repalce the cable. The old parts are clearly bent as I have noted. If you don't want to attempt the fix yourself you need to find an Indy that will do it for you. In reality it is a pretty easy fix. Just takes a little time and patience.
Old 03-19-2014, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Sunline
They are wrong. It is simply a part that was under engineered by Mercedes. The new part cures the problem without any need to repalce the cable. The old parts are clearly bent as I have noted. If you don't want to attempt the fix yourself you need to find an Indy that will do it for you. In reality it is a pretty easy fix. Just takes a little time and patience.
The left flap has completely come off, they will not simply replace the hinge and the tensioners, they are insisting on replacing the entire assembly. Any one know of some where in the Dallas area that will honestly tell me what is needed? I am ready to give this car back to the dealership. I had a new problem arise when one of the low profile tires went flat. The tire dealer said the tire is defective as there is a ripple in the side wall. The dealership said there is a ripple on the side wall from driving it flat. It was driven exactly 3 blocks to put air in it so we could make it less than 1/2 mile to the Tire dealer. I have had it.


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