LukasBMW

Threw the car on the dyno @ Evolution Motorsports in Tempe yesterday.

This is a mostly stock 2004 SL600. The only mods are software (power-chip I believe) and a muffler delete.

The good news...the car put down 669 RWTQ.

The bad news...the car only put down 408 RWHP.

The previous owner showed me a graph of the car making just over 600RWTQ and 500RWHP. So somehow I have picked up almost 70RWTQ but lost about 100 RWHP. (????)

Possible explanations is the heat (it was hot as **** when we were on the dyno yesterday and turbo cars HATE heat) and the fact that we did not have the car in "dyno mode." We had the dyno in 4 wheel mode.

I'm going to throw the car back on the dyno when it cools down in Nov/Dec, and go from there. I'm happy with the torque numbers (not sure I need more then 669 RWTQ) but think the car is capable of AT LEAST 500 RWHP.

Nightflyer

1. the rwhp is almost as identical as a tock car...put the car in Dyno mode, it is a must
2. Check your IAT's...heat soaking and hot weather along with a bad Intercooler pump will make you loose just about 100rwhp...\

Best of luck.

LukasBMW

I didn't even think of the intercooler pump. That would absolutely explain my numbers AND why the car scares the **** out of me at times (and pisses off traction control)...and why it just feels "fast" at other times (and traction control doesn't even flinch).

NCE500

IMO your HP is down by about 50 for that tune from everything I've read.

Mine had a bad I/C pump when I got it, same symptoms you are describing. Car was much slower after driving for 10 - 15 minutes, much faster until then.

After replacing the I/C pump, before doing tune or anything else, I picked up major power gains at warmer engine/ambient temps.

There is likely an error message for "High Charge Air Temp" stored, but no check engine light. Your dealer should be able to tell you in about 5 min.

LukasBMW

How do you guys feel about the CM30?

It seems anything larger then a CM30 and you run the risk of coolant flowing too quickly and actually raising intake temperatures unless you expand the capacity of the cooling system.

Considering I just have software and want to keep my car as close to stock as possible, I think a CM30 is all I need.

NEMES1S

I ran 413 on a bad pump, the easy way to tell is make a couple pulls after, I dropped 13 horse per pull

PDC

A CM30 and Dyno Mode on a cool day will miraculously locate the ponies that seem to have fled the barn. With 669 TQ on a hot day with a possibly marginal IC pump, you have a strong runner on your hands, no doubt about it.

V12Godspeed

The CM30 seems ideal for a stock cooling system. If you plan to add a 5 gallon reservoir it would be a good idea to get the Mezziere or famous CM90.

LukasBMW

I think the CM30 should work fine for me. Software and an upgraded pump are all I want do really do...and all I can probably get away with since I have 2 years of warranty left.

BTW, I read your thread about your intake temps with the mezziere before adding the 5 gallon tank. Very interesting, and very valuable information for all of us thinking about these upgrades.

I still can't imagine how ridiculous a modded V12 is in a lighter and stiffer E class chassis.

BenzoBoi

Enough torque to move mountains!

+1 on checking the cooling...