amok55amg

So; after all that talk ..... felt like going for it and made the looped fuel rail since I have the feeling that a upgrade of the size of the fuel piping from the tank will take care of any gasoline delivery problems but should this turn out to be wrong then it's not a big job to alter this later. https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...injectors.html

I decided to make it in stainless steel piping with welded fittings to the exists fuel rail. Also; went over the supercharger instead of down under - easier and also the gasoline is not that near the warm engine. Saved the release valve also on the original fuel rail ......

It will take a little cutting in the engine cover but that will end up ok - will paint it anyway ....... don't get heated with the piping - it's just a dummy for now ......

overZealous1

looks good! that valve is called a schrader valve. it is for diagnostics primarily so you can check actual psi in the rails. i ultimately am going to do a return system on mine so i can tap into the regulator for pressure since my schrader valve is gone.

amok55amg

So - decided to paint the engine block ... or not?
Not totally sure if I paint the block ..... will have to see when I have blasted it ....... aluminum isn't that bad .... could give it a clear coat instead ..... will be done in a day or two with the blasting ...... hopefully

RAWAMG

PAINT IT

overZealous1

why are you blasting it?

amok55amg

Was getting started on the blasting today ---- will blast the engine so I can get a even and clean surface to paint on ……. gotta go the whole way or no way at all ……

Had to get the bolt out of the pulley mounted on the crankshaft …. first off with a electric ½” impact wrench rated for 200 nm. … didn’t believe it could do it but had to try ….. after that unsuccessful attempt I got hold of a Ύ” impact wrench air driven ….. when holding it …. still didn’t believe it could do it ….. and no! – so it was time to bring out the big guns! back to tool man and got hold of a 1” air driven impact wrench (see pic.) holding the wrench, then I had fate ……… but will you believe it ……. the bloody bolt will not give …. hmmm thinking ….. seeing the hose from the compressor was two different sizes (in mm.) but something like a Ύ” hose and then going down to ½” the last couple of meters ……. could it be? did the impact wrench not get enough (volume) air? …me dragging the engine to the end of the Ύ” inch hose (through the gravel – not easy with a pallet) …. then ….. of it went )))) - thinking of the fuel rail too in this situation … gotta upgrade the size of that fuel pipe …….

Looking at the bolt …. only cobber pasta – no Loctite … and the new bolt has to be fasten with 200 nm. think the AMG man has used a little more than that ........
All in all – wouldn’t have enjoyed to do this job with the engine in the car ………. must be a p …… in the a……..

Blasting info. tomorrow …..

amok55amg

This was a god experience but it took longer than I expected …. one and a half day ….. but I had trouble with the air freezing up – even I had a water separator connected to the compressor I had water now and then freezing up in the connection and sometimes coming out of the pistol – also - again the hose was'nt big enough - not enough voloume of air and on top of that didn’t had enough of this “Doloblast” either(dolomit – kind of marble gravel) so I reused some of it. This doloblast comes in different sizes and it’s supper for aluminum – you can blast on rubber sealing’s etc. whiteout anything happening to them – this stuff is great …. just don’t use more than 4 BAR working pressure - had I used regular quarts or similar then the engine had been gone …..

Now I will go and washout doloblast from the ears and a lot of other places where it doesn’t belong …….

cal1

Looks good! When are you planing to paint?

amok55amg

So Cal - did manage to paint some parts today – painted the engine mounts relays and the transmission

First painted the mounts, and then have to wait an hour for drying up – then in the oven for one hour at 160 to 200 degrees C. – then cooling off – so clear coat and another hour for drying ….. then another hour in the oven again at 200 C. Finished and looking good – what do you think?

I cannot heat the transmission and the engine up to 160 C. …. don’t think gasket’s and seals and electronic can take the heat so it will just be as it is ……… didn’t like the coat on the transmission ….. something wrong with the first can … and I think I put too much on ….

amok55amg

Some of the tools I have made for the work-over ......... don't know the total but just take the tool for changing the rear crankshaft seal - tool A111 589 08 43 00 - cost 4.400SEK ($700)

OK - it's not in harden metal but in hard nylon .... it goes a long way and money saved will be put into upgrades instead

amok55amg

Oil pans and covers cleaned, blasted and painted …. only need to be baked now …….still on my way down to the block

superstar

Great work! Can't wait to see the final product..

amok55amg

So glad that I decided to go all the way down here …….. what caused this could be many things during the 12 years of “living” but it all comes down to maintains …. gotta make sure this is clean before upgrading ells a lean condition (knocking) would definitely occur and with a high probability cause a pre-ignition with a devastating result … just look of all this “clocking” and residual ……..

Should have been checking this out before ….. I mean - most people go to the dentist to have their teeth cleaned once a year – right?

https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...jectors-2.html

cal1

Is there any way to minimize this without pulling the heads? Maybe additives like techron or something similar?

amok55amg

What I have been able to read is that a product called REDEX has what it takes – as a preventive additive and a solution solver when the damage has been done …. can see people has been using this product for decades ………………. I will try it out ……

amok55amg

So – this is a never ending story …… did a simple water test on the valves and as expected several of them are not holding … have to clean and probably regrind them all ….. but worse is that cyl. 1 +2 is not holding … purred diesel on the top of the pistons and not long after the diesel came out of the bottom of the engine (have not tested cyl. 5-8 but expect the same) ….. so going for new pistons rings and hope that will take care of the issue. Have anybody tried this before? I am not of the opinion I need to go one size up?

This is an engine with 100.000 miles and guess this is “normal” – have to remember it’s not a normal car which drives in average 40% of its potential …. this is a high-end car and have been driven like one ….. this takes its toll on the equipment………………. and I was mocking Ferrari when they overhaul an engine for service …….

amok55amg

Anybody knows if there's cast iron cylinder liners in this engine or is it just all aluminium?

amok55amg

So the cylinders in the engine is coated with nikasil and as workshop/professional repair people say - there is no need to have them re-bored (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikasil)

MB says just to change the piston rings and drive it in ......

amok55amg

When I took of the oil pump I discovered the chain for the pump has chewed on the timing chain cover

When I align the chain and the sprockets on the pump and the crankshaft it's clear that it will eat material on the timing chain cover - most probably the sprockets are worn down but on the other hand ... they don't look that worn.... also there were no metal dust on the magnet in oil pan………

Any one experience something like this? ... or have any idea where the fault is?

Only good thing here is there can’t come more out of the Pandora’s Box – I’m at the bottom …….

RAWAMG

Check Chris's (Sir-Boost-a-Lot) build thread over in the W211 area... he addresses this issue.

amok55amg

Prepping the cylinders for the new piston rings …….

My greetings to Sir-boost-a-Lot https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post5754564

BlownV8

The bores are not coated with nikasil. They are Alusil bores. Big difference! However, it looks like your engine shop is treating it correctly and just rehoning the bores. Just make sure you use the correct rings for an Alusil bore. If not, you will cause scoring.

amok55amg

Hmmmm – have new original rings for the pistons …………… also new crankshaft bearings ………… and valves and heads are being machined ………… just one thing remains; the proper cleaning of the pistons from carbon deposit.

Sir-boost a-lot has this to say:

I have talked to two different professional engine workshops – (one in Denmark and one in Norway) and Mercedes Benz in Germany and they all say there’s no coating on the pistons ………………… If that’s the case, then I cannot see anything wrong using a brass broom on a slow drill for cleaning this carbon deposit – both on the top and on the side on the pistons ………………

I take that as a compliment since it’s me who’s doing the job

Sir-Boost-a-Lot

iTrader: (1)

Mercedes told you that your pistons aren't coated? Who did you talk to , the janitor? If you wire wheeled those pistons, especially around the ring s and skirt area, that engine probably wont last too long.

BlownV8

He is correct. The pistons ARE coated. Otherwise, they would not last in the MB's aluminum bore. You need dissimilar materials or the pistons will seize in the bore. MB typically uses tin coated pistons.

There is also no coating in the bore. It is Alusil. There is a special honing process that brings the silicon molecules out of the aluminum to the surface of the bore. It gives the bores an almost diamond like hardness.