SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: amok55amg build thread
#76
Super Member
Thread Starter
Camshaft
Pick-up good help and info from you Chris - Locking plates for the camshafts together with new bolts and ultra-slick engine assembly lube …..
#77
Super Member
Thread Starter
test port
This is the test port under the oil filter … anybody know how this gasket shall be placed? … and when and for what is this “option” used?
#78
Super Member
Thread Starter
Moving on ......
still some progress is being made here ...... also; just received the little occupant for the chair .... life is beautiful
#79
MBWorld Fanatic!
#80
Super Member
Thread Starter
Moment
He does fit ...... but not for long … he’s growing fast! ha ha ha
Figured out how it should be and assembled the test port - moved onto tighten things in the correct moment. OBS on using Loctite for the vacuum lid on the valve covers –don’t forget around the holes for the bolts.
Figured out how it should be and assembled the test port - moved onto tighten things in the correct moment. OBS on using Loctite for the vacuum lid on the valve covers –don’t forget around the holes for the bolts.
#84
Super Member
Thread Starter
No Sir-Boost-a-Lot - what you se here is the status …. but even I have more responsibilities the build is still ongoing ……. the engine is more or less ready …. the last important job will be the changing of the rear camshaft sealing and then I need some small parts here and there but they will eventually come …. the last big job before putting the engine back in the car will be a make-over of the supercharger ………
#86
Super Member
Thread Starter
You bought a SL55 ? Congratulation ... ..... we simply need to see some pics. here in the forum ! ... is it another MB to the collection or have you parted with the cls? .... very glad to see you here in the SL forum - that will definitely increase the knowledge and know-how here ...
still I'm very curious about this build with the steel sleeves and other pistons .... you don't have a write-up for that? I have a couple of engine blocks lined up when this build is done .....
#87
Super Member
Thread Starter
A rat in the transmission!
Ahhhh – it’s been a while since I have been doing some real progress on my engine – several reasons for that but now I’m back on track but my estimate of having the car on the road in August is not going to come through.
Well – it’s done when it’s done….. but it certainly did not help I have had a rat going into my transmission! ha ha ha … now this is not a real rat but a stupid peach of paper ….. yes yes – I messed up. I used some kitchen paper for some of the holes in the transmission and one of the them simply didn’t want to come out. More and more I tried – longer and longer inn it went.
Finally I was at the point where I had to take the transmission apart.
OK – always wanted to see what’s in there …. ahhh so today was the day … all in a day’s work and not so bad after all ….. now some of the folks in the forum will probably argue I should have change the friction plates when I was in there but I think they looked decent enough whiteout being a professional.
Also – this will certainly not be the last time I will have my fingers in this engine/trans.
Well – it’s done when it’s done….. but it certainly did not help I have had a rat going into my transmission! ha ha ha … now this is not a real rat but a stupid peach of paper ….. yes yes – I messed up. I used some kitchen paper for some of the holes in the transmission and one of the them simply didn’t want to come out. More and more I tried – longer and longer inn it went.
Finally I was at the point where I had to take the transmission apart.
OK – always wanted to see what’s in there …. ahhh so today was the day … all in a day’s work and not so bad after all ….. now some of the folks in the forum will probably argue I should have change the friction plates when I was in there but I think they looked decent enough whiteout being a professional.
Also – this will certainly not be the last time I will have my fingers in this engine/trans.
#88
Super Member
Thread Starter
A rat in the transmission! Part II
So – this dammed “rat” simply wouldn’t come out – had to take it ALL apart so I finally could blow it out with some compressed air from the opposite side of the oil canal.
never gonna use paper in this way again!
….. trans back together again )))) will continue assembling tomorrow.
Also - notice my "new" working table - electric up and down )) good for 275 kg. ))))
never gonna use paper in this way again!
….. trans back together again )))) will continue assembling tomorrow.
Also - notice my "new" working table - electric up and down )) good for 275 kg. ))))
#89
Super Member
Thread Starter
Transmission
Also having a new bearing in the end of the transmission together with new seals in both ends. All assembled with my home-made tools.
#90
Super Member
Thread Starter
Solen
Then it was time for the solenoids ….. the story of the “blue top solenoids” is widely known – if they are better or not I should not say since the whole story is quiet confusing. Even MB doesn’t understand it so how should we ….. as you can see on one of my pics. the parts numbers in EPC says one thing …. the packing say another and the actual solenoid say a third thing ….
Anyway – as said I change them all since newer and – hopefully – better solenoids have been developed since these ones was installed. Also the black isolation covering one of the contact points on the two blue tops solenoids has went away …. this black stuff is somewhere in the control unit or have been dissolved by the transmission oil
Anyway – as said I change them all since newer and – hopefully – better solenoids have been developed since these ones was installed. Also the black isolation covering one of the contact points on the two blue tops solenoids has went away …. this black stuff is somewhere in the control unit or have been dissolved by the transmission oil
#91
MBWorld Fanatic!
Then it was time for the solenoids ….. the story of the “blue top solenoids” is widely known – if they are better or not I should not say since the whole story is quiet confusing. Even MB doesn’t understand it so how should we ….. as you can see on one of my pics. the parts numbers in EPC says one thing …. the packing say another and the actual solenoid say a third thing ….
Anyway – as said I change them all since newer and – hopefully – better solenoids have been developed since these ones was installed. Also the black isolation covering one of the contact points on the two blue tops solenoids has went away …. this black stuff is somewhere in the control unit or have been dissolved by the transmission oil
Anyway – as said I change them all since newer and – hopefully – better solenoids have been developed since these ones was installed. Also the black isolation covering one of the contact points on the two blue tops solenoids has went away …. this black stuff is somewhere in the control unit or have been dissolved by the transmission oil
Is the black plastic part seen in image 47 the conductor plate? If so, did you notice fluid on it during dis-assembly? I am thinking about doing a fluid change and go on ahead and replace the conductor plate and plug at the same time. I have been reading that the conductor plate and plug are often the source of issues like the "stuck in second" problem.
#92
Super Member
Thread Starter
Still trans.
I haven’t heard about this problem stocked in 2nd ….. I must have missed it …. ha ha ha
Well – it’s over a year ago I took it apart ! … but as I recall, then the whole thing is sucked in fluid …. there’s no sealing for the top of the “conductor plate” – as EPC calls “transmission electric kit” and up against the bottom of the trans. housing. Another thing – you won’t change it unless you really need to – price is 300$ ….
Changing the fluid and filter together with the sealing and the electric plug in the side also have to be change due to bad quality and design on the earlier models. While your at it change the small seal around the gear selector when you have it apart - it doesn't cost anything and will save you a leak - you will have to take the selector apart but it's so easy when you first have figured it out how it works (attach old pick of it) - I can help you with the MB parts numbers …. Send me your VIN Curt and I will get back to you.
OK – project have moved further – as you see trans. back together …….. notice the magnet in the oil pan – this was – again - not put into some of the earlier cars …. if you don’t have this in your pan you should buy one and have it installed.
Well – it’s over a year ago I took it apart ! … but as I recall, then the whole thing is sucked in fluid …. there’s no sealing for the top of the “conductor plate” – as EPC calls “transmission electric kit” and up against the bottom of the trans. housing. Another thing – you won’t change it unless you really need to – price is 300$ ….
Changing the fluid and filter together with the sealing and the electric plug in the side also have to be change due to bad quality and design on the earlier models. While your at it change the small seal around the gear selector when you have it apart - it doesn't cost anything and will save you a leak - you will have to take the selector apart but it's so easy when you first have figured it out how it works (attach old pick of it) - I can help you with the MB parts numbers …. Send me your VIN Curt and I will get back to you.
OK – project have moved further – as you see trans. back together …….. notice the magnet in the oil pan – this was – again - not put into some of the earlier cars …. if you don’t have this in your pan you should buy one and have it installed.
#93
Super Member
Thread Starter
K3000
So the funny parts is starting ...... now it was time for the K3000 converter (thank you Shardul + cal1)
I am trying to fit it into the transmission housing but it will not go all the way - I don't know what is wrong but I simply can't get it in to fit 100%.
I can get it down one "clonk" by moving it gently side way - I follow the Mercedes Benz work procedure for changing a stock converter .....
The Mercedes Benz work procedure for changing a converter says one shall have 20 mm. left when it's down - measured from the converter console to the housing of the transmission. I ends up with 33 mm. ...... but again I am not sure the stock and the K3000 have the same measurements in height etc.
I have tried for almost three hours and simply don't get it where the fault is.
I have contacted Shardul + Brook and they are on it - thanks - but they will need more feedback from me but I'm on "the road" for the next couple of weeks and not able to get back to them right now .........
Anyone have some hints and tricks please feel free to share
I am trying to fit it into the transmission housing but it will not go all the way - I don't know what is wrong but I simply can't get it in to fit 100%.
I can get it down one "clonk" by moving it gently side way - I follow the Mercedes Benz work procedure for changing a stock converter .....
The Mercedes Benz work procedure for changing a converter says one shall have 20 mm. left when it's down - measured from the converter console to the housing of the transmission. I ends up with 33 mm. ...... but again I am not sure the stock and the K3000 have the same measurements in height etc.
I have tried for almost three hours and simply don't get it where the fault is.
I have contacted Shardul + Brook and they are on it - thanks - but they will need more feedback from me but I'm on "the road" for the next couple of weeks and not able to get back to them right now .........
Anyone have some hints and tricks please feel free to share
#94
Super Member
Thread Starter
Changing of rear crankshaft seal
This was something I have been looking forward to do for a long time.
Changing the rear crankshaft seal is a delicate operation and has to be done properly and with prudence. Only one chance to do this right.
Mercedes Benz repair instructions for this operation is none the less on eight pages and take great care to imprint precautionary steps.
Only thing is …. tools for this cost in the neighborhood of $450 here in Europe
So I made the tools myself in hard nylon........
Changing the rear crankshaft seal is a delicate operation and has to be done properly and with prudence. Only one chance to do this right.
Mercedes Benz repair instructions for this operation is none the less on eight pages and take great care to imprint precautionary steps.
Only thing is …. tools for this cost in the neighborhood of $450 here in Europe
So I made the tools myself in hard nylon........
#95
Super Member
Thread Starter
Still rear crankshaft seal
The operation itself didn’t take more than 15 minutes and it all worked perfectly.
It was one of those jobs where you think things are too good to be true ……. maybe it was ….. only time will tell
It was one of those jobs where you think things are too good to be true ……. maybe it was ….. only time will tell
#96
Super Member
Thread Starter
So the funny parts is starting ...... now it was time for the K3000 converter (thank you Shardul + cal1)
I am trying to fit it into the transmission housing but it will not go all the way - I don't know what is wrong but I simply can't get it in to fit 100%.
I can get it down one "clonk" by moving it gently side way - I follow the Mercedes Benz work procedure for changing a stock converter .....
The Mercedes Benz work procedure for changing a converter says one shall have 20 mm. left when it's down - measured from the converter console to the housing of the transmission. I ends up with 33 mm. ...... but again I am not sure the stock and the K3000 have the same measurements in height etc.
I have tried for almost three hours and simply don't get it where the fault is.
I have contacted Shardul + Brook and they are on it - thanks - but they will need more feedback from me but I'm on "the road" for the next couple of weeks and not able to get back to them right now .........
Anyone have some hints and tricks please feel free to share
I am trying to fit it into the transmission housing but it will not go all the way - I don't know what is wrong but I simply can't get it in to fit 100%.
I can get it down one "clonk" by moving it gently side way - I follow the Mercedes Benz work procedure for changing a stock converter .....
The Mercedes Benz work procedure for changing a converter says one shall have 20 mm. left when it's down - measured from the converter console to the housing of the transmission. I ends up with 33 mm. ...... but again I am not sure the stock and the K3000 have the same measurements in height etc.
I have tried for almost three hours and simply don't get it where the fault is.
I have contacted Shardul + Brook and they are on it - thanks - but they will need more feedback from me but I'm on "the road" for the next couple of weeks and not able to get back to them right now .........
Anyone have some hints and tricks please feel free to share
As said – I had a hard time making this K3000 fit …. the K3000 wouldn’t simply go all the way in to the transmission housing … but after several emails back and forth ward with Brook I learned where the problem was and how to deal with it. Since I never have done an automatic transmission before I was careful – maybe too careful.
I ended up taken the transmission apart again and trying every part in the new K3000 – found the axel on was not going into the bushing in the back of the K3000 – it is a tight fit – so I made an axel (matching my MB axel) which I hammered gently into the K3000 – the axel is made in messing and I used a rubber hammer - tight fit but after three or four times the MB axel went on smoothly – like it was supposed to do with the spec. from MB beeing max. 20 mm.
So – put it all back together and are now ready to install the transmission on the engine.
Thanks to Brook and Shardul for their patience with me and my questions.))
#98
Super Member
Thread Starter
Back in the game ……
Been busy with other stuff for a while ….. little guy and this project; https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...scrapyard.html - all took some time but now it seems I’m back ….. pics. is from September 2014! Putting the tran on the engine …..
#100
Super Member
Thread Starter
Going for the exhaust
Setting up the exhaust for the rebuild - I bought some used Kleeman headers on eBay and had some flanges made in stainless steel .... also bought stainless fittings in the UK and now I have to make it fit. Sadly I can not skip the cats. due to the law here in Sweden.