SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: brake bed in procedure?
#1
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2006 SL55
brake bed in procedure?
I just replaced my front pads and rotors and I hear there is a bed in procedure. Can someone please tell me what that is. I have a low speed pulsation that I can't trace down. I checked the run out on all 4 corners and is good. The pulsation didn't start until after the brakes and am hoping this may help. I am at a loss otherwhise. Thanks for any help or advice!!!
#2
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If the pads are ceramic (i.e. EBC Red Stuff, Akebono, etc.), these manufacturers usually recommend NO hard braking, only normal suburban driving for the first 500 miles. After that, and occasional hard braking from 70+ mph is probably good for the pads and rotors.
IF they are the semi-metallic pads, these generally recommend about 3-4 hard slow downs from 60+ to ~20 mph in sequence, followed by an extended drive to cool the pads/rotors without much braking. These pads need some heat to 'bake' the matrix in the pads.
IF they are the semi-metallic pads, these generally recommend about 3-4 hard slow downs from 60+ to ~20 mph in sequence, followed by an extended drive to cool the pads/rotors without much braking. These pads need some heat to 'bake' the matrix in the pads.
#3
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If the pads are ceramic (i.e. EBC Red Stuff, Akebono, etc.), these manufacturers usually recommend NO hard braking, only normal suburban driving for the first 500 miles. After that, and occasional hard braking from 70+ mph is probably good for the pads and rotors.
IF they are the semi-metallic pads, these generally recommend about 3-4 hard slow downs from 60+ to ~20 mph in sequence, followed by an extended drive to cool the pads/rotors without much braking. These pads need some heat to 'bake' the matrix in the pads.
IF they are the semi-metallic pads, these generally recommend about 3-4 hard slow downs from 60+ to ~20 mph in sequence, followed by an extended drive to cool the pads/rotors without much braking. These pads need some heat to 'bake' the matrix in the pads.
They are factory pads so Im not sure what material that is. I just don't get why the pulsation now.
#4
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Sounds like they still need to bed in but I think factory pads also require easy stops for first 500 miles.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
#5
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I'll continue to drive it and take it easy. Ive done MANY brake jobs and never heard of having this happen and it going away after a proper break in but I don't have any other ideas.
#7
Senior Member
Do the brakes pulsate under all conditions (hard brake, moderate brake, light brake)?
Check the surface of the rotors for pad material that has accumulated on the rotor. Then, if there's a stretch of road where you can do this safely, get the car up to 60 hard brake down to 5-10 mph - repeat for a total of five times then let the brakes cool - gentle stops. If this doesn't clear up the pulsation you probably have one or more rotors with just enough runout to case pulsation.
Check the surface of the rotors for pad material that has accumulated on the rotor. Then, if there's a stretch of road where you can do this safely, get the car up to 60 hard brake down to 5-10 mph - repeat for a total of five times then let the brakes cool - gentle stops. If this doesn't clear up the pulsation you probably have one or more rotors with just enough runout to case pulsation.