SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: OK let's have the truth
The wheels have just been refurbed, all bent due to 20" rims, 25 profile
tyres, and being lowered.
If I fit a Rentech module instead of links, will it give my wheels some extra
protection, I can't see it will, both make the car lower, so they both have less
suspension travel so I can't see the module being better.
I've had the renntech module on my airmatic equipped E-Class, and the car did feel different than when I had it lowered with links. It just felt better, like it dealt with road imperfections better. My SL has always had links, so I can't really speak specifically about the module's comfort benefits over links on an ABC equipped car. I'd assume it's a similar gain.
I went with links when modules were still $1500 and links were maybe $175 or so. If I had to do it again, with the lower prices the modules can be had for, I'd go module all the way.
Nothing is going to give you your OEM ride comfort back. It's the price we pay for aesthetics, and since my car isn't a daily driver, it's easy for me to live with.












Had many alignments and toe adjustments done with using lowering links but always had more wear on the inner edge of the tires, especially the rear tires.
I think this is pretty common for anyone lowering their cars
The inner edge of the wheel/tire is experiencing more pressure and weight of the car as the weight is not evenly distributed across the whole contact surface of the tire.
More pressure on the inside of the rim = easier bends
When using a module, the car typically raises the car back to stock height at around 30mph, this reducing the risk on bends over links.
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Also, raising the car manually only works at lower speeds. Wether the light is on or not, the car lowers itself at speeds, so your raise is irrelevant. At level 1, it lowers itself over 38mph.
Links require alignment and based on how low you have it, chances are your tires will wear on the inside. I had that on our SL600 even with the MB camber kit (never realized I had that but saw it on an invoice from MB)
I used to like links because they were really cheap but once your add alignment, sets of tires you are chewing through and possibly bend rims (which of course can happen with any ride height), the price quickly adds up.
Plus ride comfort does suffer...
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I've had the renntech module on my airmatic equipped E-Class, and the car did feel different than when I had it lowered with links. It just felt better, like it dealt with road imperfections better. My SL has always had links, so I can't really speak specifically about the module's comfort benefits over links on an ABC equipped car. I'd assume it's a similar gain.
I went with links when modules were still $1500 and links were maybe $175 or so. If I had to do it again, with the lower prices the modules can be had for, I'd go module all the way.
Nothing is going to give you your OEM ride comfort back. It's the price we pay for aesthetics, and since my car isn't a daily driver, it's easy for me to live with.
Other members say just put bigger profile tyres on, I have already bent a
stock 65 wheel, without being lowered, so this may help, but when you put
20" rims on, it transforms the look.
So I will go for the module, just got to pay for all the stuff I have had lately
Had many alignments and toe adjustments done with using lowering links but always had more wear on the inner edge of the tires, especially the rear tires.
I think this is pretty common for anyone lowering their cars
The inner edge of the wheel/tire is experiencing more pressure and weight of the car as the weight is not evenly distributed across the whole contact surface of the tire.
Fact is “Full front and rear wheel alignment” is no more!
Since the mid ‘90 model’s, with the ever increasing speed of vehicle assembly lines there has been no front or rear Camber (or front Caster) adjustment facility fitted OEM
Only current adjustment is front and rear Toe!
To attempt to return vehicle to factory specs to resolve costly premature inner edge tire wear, improve traction, and fix steering pull the only current alternative for Camber and Caster is to fit offset, slotted bolts (for the front only). But these are inaccurate - one only position bolts - offering a minimal .3 of one degree adjustment (3mm / 1/8”).
It’s no wonder many owners continually change tire brands or go from one MB Dealer or alignment shop to another trying to get it right/fix the problem!
We saw the need therefore "to fix it right the first time" by designing, developing, patenting (and re-instating from the 1990's) fully adjustable front (and rear) suspension for virtually all models.
The current K-MAC kits have up to 4 times the adjustment of these one only position offset bolts (both Positive or Negative). And unlike these one position bolts they can be accurately adjusted on car(under load) direct on alignment turntable (no need for labor intensive removal/replacement each time).
Ongoing, precise adjustment of both Camber and Caster settings if altering suspension height, fitting wide profile tires/wheels, curb knock damage or being able to quickly fine tune/change specs on race days (extra Negative/plus track width to go deeper into the corners/lower lap times). With the unique K-MAC patented design only requiring use of a single wrench/no disassembly.
For the rear, similar kits for precise Camber adjustment (with additional Toe to compensate for the new Camber facility). Importantly unlike the alternative rear adjustable Camber control arms available K-MAC kits do not move top of tire outwards - this reducing essential clearance top of tire to outer fender when adjusting to fix premature inner edge tire wear/improve rear traction.
Also instead of spherical bearings as used on control arms which prematurely pound out allowing metal to metal contact. At K-MAC we have developed long life elastomer bushings.
Bonus with the four front and four rear bushes is that they are also designed with twice the load bearing area and replace the highest wearing suspension bushings. And with K-MAC no special tools are required to fit.
Note (Product background re bushings): Majority OEM bushes have air voids to allow 2 axis movement. So control arms can travel through their required arcs without binding, locking up.
Essential with today’s modern designs of “multi-link” arms with different angle mount points!
Yet most “aftermarket” replacement bushes the industry standard is to eliminate these air voids in an attempt to improve both steering response and reduce wheel hop, loss of traction under brake and acceleration.
The opposite is often the case – the elimination of the air voids causes even more severe wheel hop, loss of traction through binding, locking up of arms.
K-MAC bushes – with 50 years now of bush technology are designed without the air voids but where needed with “full 2 axis movement”. Result is power to the ground – maximum traction/acceleration/braking - along with noticeably improved directional control and steering response for highway driving, lane changing.




