Hey All!

Finally got around to posting this. I have full details below if you want to copy this height exactly.

I bought the links from here on eBay (username: aptires) $100 shipped: http://www.ebay.com/itm/310681653052?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Ships out of Tampa, Florida and got here within a week for me in West Palm. Originally I was going to make my own, but after going to ACE Hardware and pricing out the kit to assemble at around $80 in parts, then having to measure heights and all, it's not worth it. Just buy them on eBay, you'll be happy.


"aptires" links on ebay - don't mind bottom left showing attached bolts, it is not included or needed. All ends just pop on to your car's ball joint units.

Comes with a great instruction manual and pictures. Really great thing is they come preset for a 1inch drop all around. If you turn the head twice around it will lower it 1/4th" lower. So in this case, I turned the heads on the front links 4 times longer, and the rears 4 times shorter. This equalled to about 1.5" drop all around.

Installation wise, I did it all completely by hand and some pliers. Both front and rear you don't even need to take the wheels off. Installation time Approx. 30min.

Fronts - Fronts you just jack up the car a little bit and when the wheels sags down a bit you can pop off the stock links. They are seen right on top and behind the wheels. Put the included rubber gromets on the cars ball joints, and clip on the new links. Very easy.

Rears - For these you need to jack it up and get under the car. They are located on your rear control arm. They say you have to remove the plastic covers, covering the rear control arms, but I didn't. I undid the plastic as much as I could without popping off tabs, it just kind of wraps around the control arm and you can unwrap them by hand a bit. Then, for the little rubber gromets you have to install on the ball joints, I just took my pointer and index finger and just barely got it through the hole (you'll see what I mean when you get down there). Slipped them on and then click the links on and good to go.

This is how that looks on a car with 19" wheels.






I'm pretty happy about the height. Riding wise it's a bit stiffer and maybe a bit bouncier in relation. Height wise I haven't scrapped the ground yet, it rides just about the height of curbs. You will hit them at this height, but the bumper will still ride over them (scratching bottom of your bumper at most). I have a front lip coming in soon so I will update on how this all sits with that installed.

Feel free to ask any questions! Glad to help!

 

Thanks for all the info. How does it look when the ride height is set at the highest setting?

 

No problem! It sits about the same as low-mid setting was before.

With the standard 1" drop the manual says your highest setting is what medium was before.

 

Accurate write up, nice job. I did the links years ago and they met my goals. Like you said the ride is a little bouncier and stiffer but manageable. I'm switching to elm here soon so I'm curious how the ride compares to links.

 

Lower the front another inch and you're golden !

 

The ride will be exactly the same.

It actually leveled itself out more since the install and running through the height adjustment a few times. I'll take more pics soon.

 

Ive bought 2 sets from ap, and they are as good as any there are. I hope you also have your car aligned after you do this mod to the suspension. The problem with the r230 camber adjustments is a major design flaw with the car. Your camber eats up the tires quickly. Lower it and it makes it worse. You will need to buy the adjusting camber bolts for the front, $75 at dealer, and nothing can be done for the rear. Align the car sa good as possible. You should drive on the highest setting, this maximizes the camber, so align it at the highest setting and this will tell you how, bad, or good the camber is. (but it will be bad)

 

So no rear camber kits/ adjustable control arms are available for R230? Sounds like an opportunity, I can get them made.

 

many have tried and failed, many have produced the parts and none have published any alignment sheets to prove they made a adjustment on the alignment. If you want to buy a 1000 to 2000 dollar item to improve the camber Plus add labor, , you could have bought 3 sets of tires. Its like making a $1000 mod to improve gas mileage, you could pay 30 cents a gallon for gas, over a 10 year period instead

 

It's a pretty simple adjustable part. I'll get on this soon.

 

THERE IS ONLY FRONT AND REAR TOE ADJUSTMENT OEM !

We manufacture “precisely adjustable” Front – Camber and Caster plus Rear – Camber (with extra Toe) adjuster kits.

Similar to what was fitted prior to the mid 90’s.

Kits to suit virtually every Mercedes 1968 to 2015 including all R230 models.

These unique K-MAC patented design replacement bushing kits provide for the 1st time single wrench, precise “ongoing adjustment capability” – on car, accurately (under load) direct on alignment rack!

Resolving once and for all (no going back to dealers or alignment shops or constantly changing tire brands) steering pull, costly, premature edge tire wear – the result of altering height, fitting wide profile tires, wheels, load carrying or curb knock damage. While on race days being able to increase track width and negative Camber to go deeper into the corners with more traction and braking response.

FRONT BUSHINGS have up to 4 times the adjustment of the inaccurate (one only position) Camber bolts and also replace the 4 highest wearing bushes with twice the load bearing area. They eliminate the OEM air voided, oil filled bushes yet retain 2 axis movement. Result is improved brake and steering response.

FOR THE REAR SIMILAR - again can adjust Camber for more even tire wear – then fine tune for maximum traction on track days. Kit includes extra Toe adjustment to compensate for the new Camber facility.

W230 Front Camber and Caster kit #502216K $480
Rear Camber (and extra Toe) #502526K $480

Current promotion for MB World members USA/Canada delivery - $30 one kit or $40 front and rear (normally $70 one kit, $80 front and rear). Can pay by Visa, MasterCard or PayPal.

See link for latest 2015 catalog Audi to Volvo – World’s largest range. http://K-mac.com/mercedes/

 

As an alternative to lowering links, can't the dealer just adjust the settings to lower the car?

 

I don't have any personal experience with that. However, whether you do links, a module, or Mercedes doing it - it's all the same thing.

 

to have it done by the dealer has poor results. Almost everybody that had it done, the car will eventually return to stock height on its own, the modules accomplish the same thing as links by electronics but cost 10x more. the links can be adjusted by you at home when ever you want. for 0$

 

Kudos to you guys who managed to pop off the stock links. I just gave up trying for fear of breaking the plastic sensor arm or bending the top bracket more than I did.
Maybe mine are corroded since my car has 55k miles and it's been in the N.E.
all it's life. Anyway, someone else can take a turn at this since I'll sell the new links for $60.00 shipped. I payed $100.
I'll add a pic.

 

These are the links.

 

Why does the ABC not freake out with the links, does it not recognize that the car has been forced lower?

 

It doesn't know. All the links do is is trick the ABC into thinking it is too high, so it lowers the car as a response.

 

Has anybody measured the length of the new links. I am making my own and was wondering how much to shorten them by to drop the back end by 1.0".
Thanks

 

I just adjust them 5mm at a time and test. the fronts go longer not shorter

 

Thanks that will give me a good starting point.

 

 

anything you do to the suspension you have to get it realigned. But on an older car you also need to get the adjustable camber bolts for the front. This will straighten up the front really well. The rear wont ever be adjustable unless you get the adjustable bushings
those wheels look like replica MB performance pkg wheels

 

Man those 19's look like 20's for some reason. Looks great.

Quick question, are all R230 lowering links the same? I just bought a 2005 SL600 and I'm looking to drop it about 1.25" all around, thanks.

 

they are the same