SL55 AMG, SL63 AMG, SL65 AMG (R230) 2002 - 2011 (2003 US for SL55 and 2004 for the SL65)

SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: General Feeling about miles on a SL55

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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 11:35 AM
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03 SL55, 13 E550, 14 C350
General Feeling about miles on a SL55

Hello All-

I'm currently shopping for a SL55. Are there any general feelings about the number of miles one of these cars needs to stay healthy. I like my vehicles to be cosmetically pristine so I'm drawn to a lower mile vehicle but I know the flip side is mechanicals tend to favor some movement. I've located a few with 40-50k which seems reasonable to me. I've also found one with 21k and on the other side 65k. What are your thoughts?

Thanks in Advance.
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 12:13 PM
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Always buy the newest nicest and most well maintained one you can find. Low mileage is typically better. The ABC pump will fail around 80k miles regardless of how well you maintain the vehicle. ABC lines will leak and or start to fail around the same mileage. There are just so many issues with the 230 SL that you really need to love the car to be an owner.
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 12:25 PM
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Ive seen 03 with 5000 so keep looking and you will find anything
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 08:01 PM
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My SL65 has 95,000 miles and goes just fine. ABC hose replaced, etc, but these are cars that run.
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 06:50 AM
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I'm in the other end of the spectrum. My SL55 had 158k when I bought it last August. It had nearly $3800 of service work done to it 2 days before I purchased it (conductor plate, motor & transmission mounts, major AC work and control arm bushings). It looks and drives fantastic. It's my toy, so the miles don't bother me. I've only put about 1500 miles on it since August. I've done all the fluid and filter changes myself, and replaced the accumulators & the pressure damper, along with a fluid flush and filter change in the ABC. Still an early owner, but so far so good.

Tim
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 08:59 AM
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at 10 yrs or 100k miles all the accumulators will need replaced on the ABC system. They deteriorate with both age and mileage. Finding a higher mileage one that has had all the ABC service done, the SBC replaced, the gear shifter upgraded to metal (instead of the factory plastic), the soft close trunk fixed, the front latch for the top replaced and upgraded from one from top hydraulics, the motor and tranny mounts replaced, etc. would be a better way to go versus say buying one with 60k on it where all that stuff is going to need to be done in the next 20-40k miles.
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 09:48 AM
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How can you tell if the accumulators need to be replaced? Will it throw error codes or show in STAR?
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 12:34 PM
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@Blown V8
Car gets a lot stiffer over potholes etc. and in some cases ABC-fluid is pushing out of the reservoir under the hood.
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 01:25 PM
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How many accumulators on our cars? Does it differ between V8 and V12 models?
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by BlownV8
How can you tell if the accumulators need to be replaced? Will it throw error codes or show in STAR?
There are 4 accumulators. If the front or rear accumulator that supplies fluid to the struts has failed, then when traversing some bumps and pot holes an error message will show in the cluster, and a code for low pressure will be set in the controller. If the pressure supply accumulator (Pulsation Dampener) has failed, then the supply hoses will vibrate and produce an audible noise. The other accumulator reduces pressure in the return line, and I do not know for certain what symptoms are exhibited when it fails -- perhaps sound from a vibration.

Apparently Star Diagnosis has an automated test routine it executes to test the accumulators. To run the test from the main menu you select:
Control units > ABC > Troubleshooting by means of complaints or symptoms > Handling characteristics > Vehicle damping too soft or spongy handling characteristics > Pressure change during pressure release.

Last edited by bobterry99; Feb 8, 2017 at 02:41 PM.
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by bobterry99
There are 4 accumulators. If the front or rear accumulator that supplies fluid to the struts has failed, then when traversing some bumps and pot holes an error message will show in the cluster, and a code for low pressure will be set in the controller. If the pressure supply accumulator (Pulsation Dampener) has failed, then the supply hoses will vibrate and produce an audible noise. The other accumulator reduces pressure in the return line, and I do not know for certain what symptoms are exhibited when it fails -- perhaps sound from a vibration.

Apparently Star Diagnosis has an automated test routine it executes to test the accumulators. To run the test from the main menu you select:
Control units > ABC > Troubleshooting by means of complaints or symptoms > Handling characteristics > Vehicle damping too soft or spongy handling characteristics > Pressure change during pressure release.
Everything here is correct. Keep in mind there is no way to test the return line accumulator as there is no pressure sensor on the return line. My accumulators were totally done at 75k on my 03 and the light would come on occasionally, but only over large bumps. The STAR procedure said everything was ok. When you took the accumulators off, you could tell they were done. Also, if one of the 2 valve block accumulators is bad but not the other one, the one that is still good can usually keep up with a lot of the demand and not show up on the STAR test or bring up fault codes. Just bc STAR doesn't show them as bad or you haven't gotten any codes yet does not mean they are not bad though. Bad accumulators put a ton of extra stress on both the pump and all of the hoses. The pump is an expensive item and putting additional stress on the hoses is a poor idea given how difficult many of them are to replace. The accumulators aren't too much and it is not a difficult project to do. there is one on each valve block (front valve is located in the front of the front drivers fender, rear valve is located in the front of the rear drivers fender), the pulsation dampener one is in the rear of the front drivers fender on 03-06 cars and on 07+ cars it is located directly on the pump, the return line accumulator is also located on the rear valve block.
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by carguyshu
Everything here is correct. Keep in mind there is no way to test the return line accumulator as there is no pressure sensor on the return line. My accumulators were totally done at 75k on my 03 and the light would come on occasionally, but only over large bumps. The STAR procedure said everything was ok. When you took the accumulators off, you could tell they were done. Also, if one of the 2 valve block accumulators is bad but not the other one, the one that is still good can usually keep up with a lot of the demand and not show up on the STAR test or bring up fault codes. Just bc STAR doesn't show them as bad or you haven't gotten any codes yet does not mean they are not bad though. Bad accumulators put a ton of extra stress on both the pump and all of the hoses. The pump is an expensive item and putting additional stress on the hoses is a poor idea given how difficult many of them are to replace. The accumulators aren't too much and it is not a difficult project to do. there is one on each valve block (front valve is located in the front of the front drivers fender, rear valve is located in the front of the rear drivers fender), the pulsation dampener one is in the rear of the front drivers fender on 03-06 cars and on 07+ cars it is located directly on the pump, the return line accumulator is also located on the rear valve block.
Sometimes, you guys just amaze me.
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Old Feb 9, 2017 | 02:54 PM
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Sometimes, you guys just amaze me
Yes there are some brilliant minds on this forum for sure!

Going back to the OP, we all know that these cars have specific issues that will always need to be addressed. I always felt that I wanted to make the car "my own" whatever I bought. Low miles to me isn't always the major draw for me. You may be able to pick up a 125,000 mile SL that has had everything done and was meticulously maintained. I would buy an SL off of many on this board due to the attention to detail they put into their cars. When I was looking for my SL, I wanted the 55 (65 was just out of reach) and I wanted the performance package (2006 or 2007 but preferably 2007). When I was looking there were 3 to choose from in Alberta. So I based mine on cost, no accidents, and interior condition. I knew I was going to put money into the mechanics. So now I have a 2007 with the performance package. Runs great, solid body, typical issues. I need to replace the front wheel bearings and I have the soft close issue. So now that this car is in my care, I know how to look after a vehicle so this will be babied and most importantly, driven!

In conclusion, find out what you specific "must haves" or must be" for your SL. Then get it checked and prepare to spend some bucks to get it 100%. Then look after it and enjoy. More often than not my car puts a huge smile on my face and huge thumbs up from the people in the know

Good luck

Shaun
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Old Feb 9, 2017 | 04:56 PM
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Fortunately I'm not picky regarding options or color. When I last shopped for a summer toy I ended up with a color that I never thought I would but bought it based on the condition. I was looking at 65 that was in the bright blue that looked beautiful but once I got better pictures the paint wasn't in the type of condition I'd like. The pano roof would be highly desirable as we have it both of our MBs now. I'm shying away from the Perf pack only due to the added bake cost and I don't need it for my driving style although I do like the 65 nose. The hunt continues.... Thanks for all the advise.
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Old Feb 9, 2017 | 06:36 PM
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My SL65 will be for sale come spring...
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Old Feb 9, 2017 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Viper98912
My SL65 will be for sale come spring...
more details please
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