When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey folks. Hope you’re staying safe. During this “down time”/need for mental stimulation at home between work calls, what DIY tinkering projects might you recommend for everyone?
It’s still a bit cool here in Illinois, but very workable in the garage. I can check the ABC fluid level only so many times..
Pull all the ABC lines and take them to be rebuilt or install all new ones. You are at the age where the hoses start going quickly if they have not been replaced. Change the accumulators while the lines are off. Those are most likely heading south too.
Give the seals some love. Door seals and top seals trunk etc. Lube the top? Check your top fluid level. Maybe new trunk struts. Change out tail light and interior bulbs.
Thanks! Did the seals with Pflug-whatever German stuff. Looking for guidance on top mechanism lube points and recommended lube. Afraid to touch the reservoir since everything works perfectly! New trunk struts done last month.
Pull all the ABC lines and take them to be rebuilt or install all new ones. You are at the age where the hoses start going quickly if they have not been replaced. Change the accumulators while the lines are off. Those are most likely heading south too.
wow that’s a sounds like an annoying project. I have an 03 and haven’t needed an ABC hose yet fingers crossed. I have changed al of the accumulators and one strut. I think I will just keep my eye on the hoses.
How about an ABC flush though ? That’s a good maintenance item that should be done yearly I think.
Changed out the diff fluid and coolant. Just fixed all the disconnected clips from the headliner and reinstalled. Currently doing a mini-paint correction using Griots correction cream and DA polisher. My LED light shows tons of clearcoat imperfections. It takes a long time to go over each 2x2 section multiple times. Waiting for a package from FCP Euro to do a brake fluid flush.
I've gotten a ton of work done on my recently purchased SL63. Oil change, transmission service with the deeper pan and filter, spark plugs, full brake job, ceramic coated my calipers and inner wheel barrels, installed a carbon fiber fender vent that I found on Facebook Marketplace, lubed all of my seals, and a bunch of detailing. ABC flush was last done in 2017 so that's up next along with adjusting my parking brakes that drag a little at low speed.
wow that’s a sounds like an annoying project. I have an 03 and haven’t needed an ABC hose yet fingers crossed. I have changed al of the accumulators and one strut. I think I will just keep my eye on the hoses.
How about an ABC flush though ? That’s a good maintenance item that should be done yearly I think.
Mercedes recommends an ABC service every 40K miles. I'm going with a 25K mile interval instead. Yearly seems a little aggressive.
If you have a Star Diagnostic setup and the AGA tool, the job can be done correctly via DIY. Also, if you buy the fluid & filter from FCP Euro, you can enjoy a lifetime replacement for it.
Everyone should consider changing their tubular frame strut, which supports the rear decklid when the top opens. It’s an often overlooked strut which looks like a trunk decklid strut, but is on the right side and is only accessible when the top is in the service position. The lower mounting point is right next to the consumer battery. It costs around $50. When they fail, there is extra pressure on the hydraulic system. I just changed mine, and was able to push it down, indicating a failure. Let me know if you’d like more details.
Everyone should consider changing their tubular frame strut, which supports the rear decklid when the top opens. It’s an often overlooked strut which looks like a trunk decklid strut, but is on the right side and is only accessible when the top is in the service position. The lower mounting point is right next to the consumer battery. It costs around $50. When they fail, there is extra pressure on the hydraulic system. I just changed mine, and was able to push it down, indicating a failure. Let me know if you’d like more details.
Oh yeah, here’s another one: Pull off each wheel to remove all corrosion/rust on the mating surfaces of both the wheel and rotor. Mine were disgusting, so I used a brass brush fitting on my impact driver. Also take the opportunity to detail those beautiful calipers. Lightly coated the mating surfaces with anti-seize. Don’t forget to deep clean the barrels of the wheels while they’re off and retighten lugs to proper torque!
Oh yeah, here’s another one: Pull off each wheel to remove all corrosion/rust on the mating surfaces of both the wheel and rotor. Mine were disgusting, so I used a brass brush fitting on my impact driver. Also take the opportunity to detail those beautiful calipers. Lightly coated the mating surfaces with anti-seize. Don’t forget to deep clean the barrels of the wheels while they’re off and retighten lugs to proper torque!
I did exactly that last weekend when I replaced my brake pads, but also used some left over ceramic coating on the brake calipers and inner barrels of the wheels. I'm hoping they will basically hose clean, but we'll see.
I used a product called Glidecoat but only because it was left over from doing my boat a few weeks ago. I do a lot of detailing but ceramic is pretty intimidating, so I left it to a friend who manages a body shop. I’m having him do my cars later this summer. I have to say though, small areas like the wheel barrels and brake calipers were really easy to coat.
I find ceramic coating to be just as easy as waxing. The only real difference is preparation of the clean surface with a 50/50 mix of ISP and water. Just know that clearcoat imperfections not buffed out will be somewhat locked in unless you reapply.
03-17-2020, 10:37 AM
