SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: ABC maintenance help
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 164
Likes: 13
From: NJ
2003 SL55 AMG GT , 2000 BMW 323I coupe
ABC maintenance help
Hey members,
Any ABC suspension experts, please read this post.
I have been experiencing suspension droop in the front only lately. The car raises back to normal after starting it up and moving it. Also, when driving on the highway and if I drive over a hump in the road which gets the car slightly airborn, my ABC warning light comes on for a short time. I want to replace the front accumulators and do a flush too.
Is this a good plan or should I be doing something else to try and resolve this occassional droop?
Thanks for any input.
Any ABC suspension experts, please read this post.
I have been experiencing suspension droop in the front only lately. The car raises back to normal after starting it up and moving it. Also, when driving on the highway and if I drive over a hump in the road which gets the car slightly airborn, my ABC warning light comes on for a short time. I want to replace the front accumulators and do a flush too.
Is this a good plan or should I be doing something else to try and resolve this occassional droop?
Thanks for any input.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,057
Likes: 341
From: NJ
2009 SL63 AMG
You could try a conditioner (with clean fluid) that slightly swells tired o-rings.
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...e-oil-use.html
I'm in Northern NJ, so if you want to scan your car with MB STAR to see what ABC codes there are (current and/or stored), PM me.
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...e-oil-use.html
I'm in Northern NJ, so if you want to scan your car with MB STAR to see what ABC codes there are (current and/or stored), PM me.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 272
Likes: 21
From: Rocky Mountains, Colorado
Just sold my '11 Porsche TurboS cab for an '03 SL55!
Yes, likely a valve block issue causing leak down when parked. A pair of solenoid valve (one for L, one for R) in the valve block close when the car is turned off and they block the fluid flow from exiting the respective struts, thus avoiding the droop.
It seems odd to me that both sides would fail, it's usually just L or R.
Either way, the fix is the same, a new (c.~$1400) valve block. Don't waste your time with a so-called 'rebuild' off of eBay or elsewhere, they can't test the valve leakage and don't. And don't waste time with seal kits either as it is almost never the issue. However, if you have time to have the car down, and want to hedge your bets, and of course you are doing your own wrenching, then pull the valve block and pull the solenoids out of it and examine the seals. Only the bottom seal matters to this leak and unless it is truly and obviously degraded (fayed and extruded out of the gland) then that's not your issue.
would definitely replace the front accumulator while you have the block out (~$100 as I recall OE but via the aftermarket sources like AutoHaus etc. Then do the full fluid flush and a near the end of that, replace the filter and finish the flush/top up. There is lots published here and elsewhere on the flush procedures. But check Amazon on the 5 liter jugs of oil as I think that's the best. Buy 3 jugs and be left with a few l. extra.
Typically you would reset the corner heights after a valve block replacement but not necessarily as none of those inputs to the control system are affected by the valve/accumulator/fluid change. If it turned out to be need and you don't have STAR/DAS, a local indy can do it in an hour or so.
It seems odd to me that both sides would fail, it's usually just L or R.
Either way, the fix is the same, a new (c.~$1400) valve block. Don't waste your time with a so-called 'rebuild' off of eBay or elsewhere, they can't test the valve leakage and don't. And don't waste time with seal kits either as it is almost never the issue. However, if you have time to have the car down, and want to hedge your bets, and of course you are doing your own wrenching, then pull the valve block and pull the solenoids out of it and examine the seals. Only the bottom seal matters to this leak and unless it is truly and obviously degraded (fayed and extruded out of the gland) then that's not your issue.
would definitely replace the front accumulator while you have the block out (~$100 as I recall OE but via the aftermarket sources like AutoHaus etc. Then do the full fluid flush and a near the end of that, replace the filter and finish the flush/top up. There is lots published here and elsewhere on the flush procedures. But check Amazon on the 5 liter jugs of oil as I think that's the best. Buy 3 jugs and be left with a few l. extra.
Typically you would reset the corner heights after a valve block replacement but not necessarily as none of those inputs to the control system are affected by the valve/accumulator/fluid change. If it turned out to be need and you don't have STAR/DAS, a local indy can do it in an hour or so.
