I have a 2005 slk 350. where is the oil filter and the drain plug. i thought I would change it myself. I do not feel confidant in the extended mileage intervals. I am currently using the mobil one synthetic as per mercedes. any thoughts or guidance would be greatly appreciated. thanks

I just posted this yesterday, should be post number 2 ---> LINK

Go to the benzworld.org's gallery, under r171 and look for fgwinn's gallery, he has some pics of the drain plugs and oil filter's location. Also do a search for oil change under fgwinn's post, I recall him writing a DIY tuturial.

Hi guys
While changing oil is not big problem for me/ I can't figure out how to reset oil change reminder - anybody have the procedure?

Thanks

For future reference: W171 (or SLK350 2004+)

Engine oil/filter: 8.4 US Qts (8.0Liters) Mobil 1 approved, Non-Diesel Oil Filter Part #: 0001802609 same as #05102905AB (Fleece type with O-rings, both numbers appear on the same Mercedes Part Box)
Auto Tranny: 10.4 US Qts (9.8L)
Manual Tran: 1.6 US Qts (1.5L)
Rear Axle: 1.2 US Qts (1.1L)
Power Steer: 1.1 US Qts (1.0L)
Brakes: 0.5 US Qts (0.5L) DOT 4
Cooling: 11.2 US Qts (10.2L) MB 325.0 Anticorrosion/Antifreeze Agent
Windshied wash: 7.4 US Qts (7.0L)

Infor on Genuine Fleece (not paper) filters from M-B:

From MBUSA:

Genuine Mercedes-Benz Fleece Oil Filters

Plastic instead of paper - it's the new Mercedes mantra with regards to oil filters. Modern lubricants can cause more rapid degradation of the cellulose (paper) filter in longer drain interval applications. In our new Fleece oil filters, the medium has been replaced with durable polyester, providing greater resistance to degradation.

Four reasons to stay faithful to FLEECE oil filters:
1. Compatibility. Our filters are compatible with the latest, fully synthetic oils and with mineral oils as well. Genuine Mercedes-Benz Fleece oil filters help ensure optimum engine lubrication, and are a required service item for all 2005 Mercedes-Benz vehicles.

2. High filtering precision. MB Fleece filters can remove particles as small as 0.005 millimeters which means cleaner oil is circulated through the engine, it’s an excellent replacement for the paper filter in pre-2005 models.

3. Durability. The new, highly durable filter medium provides greatly improved protection against material degradation and deformation from hot oil - even under the most difficult operating conditions.

4. Easy servicing and installation ensured. Only the vehicle manufacturer can work from the original vehicle drawings in developing replacement parts. Other manufacturers have to engage in guesswork in determining the tolerances for the oil filter system. Deviating from our exact dimensions and materials may cause installation problems or internal filter bypass leakages.

I did "Go to the benzworld.org's gallery, under r171 and look for fgwinn's gallery" and was unsuccessful locating it. In fact, there was only one gallery that seemed to be available for viewing. Any other leads? Also the question of how to reset the reminder seems unresolved. Ideas?

Thanks, folks.
Paul

docrings, Greetings. It's been a while since we've heard from you.

The simplest way to change the oil and filter are:
1. Phone dealer
2. Make appointment
3. Go to dealer
4. Tell service writer to change oil and filter
5. Sit in waiting area until service is complete
6. Pay dealership for service
7. Drive many happy miles, then repeat steps 1 thru 6

LoL. One problem. I have always done my own wrench work and while I realize I've entered a very different domain than I've ever been in as a result of buying the Benz, the habits/values die hard. Oh, and the thought of someone ELSE doing oil changes on my car?? Whew!!! Having twitches just thinking about that.
Paul

Yes, for us wrenchers, it is VERY difficult to give the service of our cars over to some 21 year-old who may have his mind on his girlfriend or getting a beer, than remembering to torque the filter cap to 18 lb-ft, or to remember to replace the O-Rings on the filter assembly. And did he put in 8 qts or 8.5 or 9 qts... he can't remember either...

Plus it's a good reason to use that oversized, highly tooled garage I have and save $60 in the process. And as a doctor, it is very difficult to coordinate dropping off the car (no loaners in Pensacola) and getting off work in time to get to the dealer... and all the hassles there.

And it puts a smile on my face to know another "job well done" when I do it myself.



PS: Thanks for the welcome back... I've spent a lot of time compiling the C6 corvette FAQ at corvetteforum.com, and the Samsung HL-S DLP TV Tech Links WIKI... so much work and so little time!

...and the 21 y/o would say "torque"...wot dat?? and proceed to put both feet against the wall and tighten 'till it started to turn a bit easier! I am a doctor of sorts also (well, Ph.D, not medical) and the nearest dealer is literally 50 mins away one-way. Of course, that'd make the tech as old as my Toyota Corolla in Chev Nova trim. That's what I take when I need to leave something at the airport for a few days! I can surely tell I am in for many lessons on this forum...I hope they're mostly painless.
Paul

http://www.benzworld.org/gallery/sho....php/cat/12989

Above link may help you locate the drain plug. I reviewed my old benzworld posts and I think Ynot has me confused with another member. I never posted a how to for oil change on the SLK350. I did post plenty of stuff on oil consumption and dipsticks. I also did a how to on calculating the oil extracted. You can find that at slkworld.com.

I can see that I have much to learn..."calculating oil extracted?" I'm familiar w/the procedure of simply draining the oil into a pan and filling up the sump till the oil level is at the full mark on the dipstick. A secondary option (not the best) would be to use manufacturer's oil cap'y #'s and simply dump in that much oil into the filler tube. There is a reason on the SLK that makes the process more involved than that???
Paul

Nah - I'm with "doc' on that one, too many punk-*** kids at those 'quickie' lubes and NOTHING like the vested interest and pride of doing your own repair well on your very own vehicle. I've been to the dealer (Brumos) and they have put on clamps loose, scratched my paint, etc...

hmm.. I must have gotten you confused with another member. anyway, welcome back, haven't seen you post in awhile.

phjbbu:
Sorry, can't help much more than that, I have not changed the oil myself, local MB is charging me $100 so don't feel like getting under the car to figure it out.

I did not mean to alarm you and make the oil change seem more complicated than it is in real life. I have found MB engines to be among the easiest for which to change oil if you evacuate the oil from the dipstick tube. Some people are opposed to removing the oil with an oil extractor and insist on draining the oil thru the drain plug. At least one MB, the SLK55, has two drain plugs and requires draining the oil from below the engine.

To extract the oil from the dipstick tube you need the following tools:

- Oil filter wrench MB # 103-589-02-09-00 see link below

http://www.startekinfo.de/etools/con...2002%2009%2000

- Disposable latex gloves to remove the old oil filter element
- 22mm socket for oil filter wrench
- Small torque wrench to tighten oil filter cap
- oil extractor like the Mityvac w/8.8L capacity

To drain the oil from the bottom you need the same items listed above except for the oil extractor. In addition you need:

- Suitable wheel ramps
- 8mm wrench (or socket) to remove plastic panels below the engine
- ??mm wrench to remove the drain plug

You need to pop off the front section of the engine cover to gain access to the oil filter which is in the top front left side of the engine.

If you use the Mityvac with the translucent container, you can visually determine the approximate amount of oil removed. If you are within +/- one centimeter of the 8L mark on the container, I would refill the engine with 8L of Mobil 1 (8.5 quarts). If I extracted significantly less than 8L of oil, I would probably go to the trouble of removing the drain plug just to confirm that there was no oil remaining before I refilled the crankcase. This could be tricky, since you would no longer be able to drive the car up ramps after you extracted the oil.

I would not rely upon the dipstick as an accurate way to determine the engine oil level when refilling with new oil. The oil dip stick tool with the metric scale is a better choice (see my old benzworld posts). My 2005 SLK350 reads at about the 150mm mark with this tool.

The only reason I weighed the oil after my last oil change is that I have an early 2005 model and several people had oil consumption issues with the early production cars. This step is not really necessary unless you suspect a problem or as in my case just wanted to estimate the actual consumption.

Hope you found this info helpful.