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Has anyone had to replace the struts on their gullwing doors yet? Mine don't have quite the zip I'd expect nor do they fully extend without a little help.
I'm wondering if there's a DIY procedure (or video) out there with the right part #s to order, etc. It should be a very easy/quick project but likely need another person to hold the door up (or employ a very long broomstick).
If your car is still under warranty take it in and MB will replace them. They replaced both of mine because they were squeaking. Some oils probably would have done the trick but they replaced instead.
All were making noise and all replaced while still in the entrance bay.
Took the SLS mechanic less than 5 minutes to place all of them.
That was 1 1 /2 years ago and they have been perfect since.
I am a newbie. BUT NEED THE STRUTS AND THE LINK IS NOT WORKING. I NEED 8. For two Gullwings. ANY SUGGESTIONS WILL BE WELCOME. I HAVE STRICKEN OUT IN GOOGLE. THANKS. 6742
I am a newbie. BUT NEED THE STRUTS AND THE LINK IS NOT WORKING. I NEED 8. For two Gullwings. ANY SUGGESTIONS WILL BE WELCOME. I HAVE STRICKEN OUT IN GOOGLE. THANKS. 6742
Changing gas struts are usually super easy. Support the door at it's highest position. There's a retaining clip on either end(the paper clip looking thing in the picture). Rotate the rounded end away for the strut shaft. Then slide it out of the hole, away from the strut end. Pull off the ends of the old strut one at a time from the ball joints(may take a little force) and insert the new strut ends with the pins also removed. Insert the pins and repeat for all the struts. If the struts aren't completely dead, then you can usually save money by replacing only 1 per side.
I bought the part number listed above and was able to change the 2 struts on my drivers side door. However, it was very difficult to remove/displace the old struts.
The first strut I was able to finally take out by getting full “yanking” power running 90 degrees against the ball/socket joint. When I simply tried to pull the strut from the ball joint it would not come undone (at either the top or the bottom sockets). So I sort of leaned against the car, getting the full length of my arm extending and the full power of my upcoming yank running lengthwise with the body of the SLS, which is directly outward from the ball/socket joint. A hard yank finally popped it out. That was the bottom socket, which in my opinion is the better place to start. The top socket was easy to remove after that.
Then I had someone hold up the door while I put the new strut into place. I had to press very strongly to pop the top socket into place and the same for the bottom. Once it is in place you know it as it “pops” into place.
The 2nd strut was even more difficult to remove. Yanking didn’t work. Neither did striking lightly with a hammer. Finally a screw driver was used to “jimmy” (sp?) in between the ball joint and the frame. This did pop out the strut. I suspect this method is not recommend by MB. But it worked and I was able to replace the 2nd strut.
Hmmm... it's 6 years later and about time to put in new struts to keep the doors up. Anyone have a favorite site these days? The old site from which I got mine is gone.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
good thing you got the EW
