The X-pipe
. Here is the 2.5" stainless one, Its similar to Magnaflow but better quality, stainless vs. aluminized steel, and has smoother merges. They both have same dimensions. Be sure to buy some 2.25" inner diameter mandrel bent 45 degree pipes as well as mentioned in my Official X-pipe thread on Benzworld. Dynos are also in that thread as well, definitely healthy gains for such a low price. enjoyhttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T304-...mZ390002009590


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I live in northern Minnesota and have no smog laws to deal with. So I would think to remove both cats would be better, so long as it does not make the car really loud.
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http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...st-thread.html
I live in CA so need all cats, where do I tell them to stick the X pipe, lol apart from the obvious, is there some clearly defined space? Do I only need the X pipe??
Thanks, much happier with old 911s, no water stuff and the exhaust is right there at the back with no cats.
I am not and expert on this subject nor have I done this mod yet.
From my data gathered on here and the other site you need:
• The x-pipe found on ebay.
• Mandrel Bend Pipes.
Pictures of what it should look like:

The shop will need to cut the mandrel pipes to connect the exhaust from the engine back to the x-pipe.
I hope this is helps.
-B
Last edited by Bellefonte; Nov 30, 2008 at 06:19 PM.
also, i am from MN, i live in the cities... where abouts are you?
Aj
I have had 2 55s and a 420 sport in '96. There really isn't too much that needs to be done with these cars to improve the breed and mostly I think it is a placebo effect where we "think" we feel some added oomph after plonking down pretty serious money for what turns out to be not too much actual HP.
Nicobaries last post was what I hear in person from many owners; can't really tell too much the difference before and after.
I know I have had my ECU remapped on each car and that was a noticeable difference, not just in straight line acceleration but in getting a more immediate response from the throttle and slightly crisper shifts. Very slight.
Other than that, it looks like a lot of us are running around spending cash on exhaust, pulleys, airboxes, cool tape for airboxes, air filters, carbon fiber intakes and in some really far gone cases pulling the catalytic converters and or installing superchargers. The Horror.
Want a faster and more nimble car for not too much money while retaining a stock car? Get a reliable independent MB mechanic who KNOWS these cars-stay away from the dealerships- and do the following:
Get new plugs, get stock plugs and replace all 16 of them.
Get a new MAF or have your old MAF cleaned and installed correctly.
Get a K&N or Green or even a stock air filter and keep it cleaned or replaced every 12 months.
Get 4 really good tires, not some cheap loss leader from TireRack, 4 really good tires so all the power can be put on the road and you don't sit there like some fool with the ESP lit up saying how your car isn't what it once was.
Do all the above and you won't need anything else, these cars are screamers right from the factory; save your money and get the car back into the shape it was in when it left the factory it will surprise you how much horsepower you just "found".
I know, I live off of Mulholland Drive, there isn't much on the road that can hang with us and NOTHING with 4 doors.
If you didn't do X-pipe you won't see any gains, if you do X-pipe you will get roughly 8wHP 500rpm+. Dynos are in the benzworld thread as proof.
I also share the view that most modification parts are way underfunded R&D adventures, which do not yield desired performance gains for the cash; however, the x-pipe mod is one of the cheapest ways to gain HP and sound I have seen for this car. Just taking omeyhomey’s cost ratios equates to 1whp per $20 and this number is now lower from metal price adjustments.



