Very interesting information for all those with low power concern, slow w210 e55
wouldn't hurt to PM Ohlord, I PM'd him a few times on some stuff even spoke to him a few times over the phone really nice guy. I also had him ship me a floor shifter along with a tool box to remove radio, climate control and cluster at a great price.He's the Guru for W210
Best advise I can offer, he may also be able to get you a used ECU
I know he has a lot of connections for parts.GL!
Keep us posted
Johnny
wouldn't hurt to PM Ohlord, I PM'd him a few times on some stuff even spoke to him a few times over the phone really nice guy. I also had him ship me a floor shifter along with a tool box to remove radio, climate control and cluster at a great price.He's the Guru for W210
Best advise I can offer, he may also be able to get you a used ECU
I know he has a lot of connections for parts.GL!
Keep us posted
Johnny
I was told its got be be programmed vin spacific one time use on a new ECU only, used can not be reprogramed Dealer won't do it

Either wa thank for advice Il pm that guy..
Last edited by amgalex; Mar 17, 2010 at 01:25 AM.
I never replaced the ECU and have no plan to spend the money to do that, the car is still faster than 90% of whats on the road, but it does still frustrate me at times.
I never replaced the ECU and have no plan to spend the money to do that, the car is still faster than 90% of whats on the road, but it does still frustrate me at times.
now there is even a service bulletin on this problem but dealer still has no clue or do they?,, what is going on here? Mercedes just don't want to face the problem or what?
Buy an obd2 reader, they are cheap and watch your O2 voltages at load and see if they go way lean to confirm a defective ECU issue...
Sounds to me like clogged injectors or a faulty fuel pressure regulator .
Besides if your ECU was bad your car would be in limp mode and you wouldn't even be able to do a 0-60 run.
Easiest start for diagnosis is to borrow a known working ECU to swap in.
Maybe you can Paypal someone a refundable deposit to insure a return.
If anyone does lend him an ECU, make sure you mark your box w/ your name as well as breach-tape.
I got burned once....so speaking from experience here.
Good luck.
Sounds to me like clogged injectors or a faulty fuel pressure regulator .
Besides if your ECU was bad your car would be in limp mode and you wouldn't even be able to do a 0-60 run.
Easiest start for diagnosis is to borrow a known working ECU to swap in.
Maybe you can Paypal someone a refundable deposit to insure a return.
If anyone does lend him an ECU, make sure you mark your box w/ your name as well as breach-tape.
I got burned once....so speaking from experience here.
Good luck.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
If the ECU is supposed to tune the engine to how you normally drive wouldnt leaning out the fuel for someone that drives very smoothly be normal? I'm a very smooth driver (except when a Mustang or Infiniti needs a lesson in what a Mercedes is) and my E55 has 22.8MPG over the last 3000 miles. My last 200+ mile trip it was up to 25.3mpg (trip) at best and was at 24.8MPG as I was backing it into the garage. I would think if you drive like this normally you cant expect to have the ECU be tuned for both high MPG type driving and high HP. Still even a "slow" E55 is a beast on the interstate, it has torque all over the range. It will be interesting if a new ECU has a software update that can make it be both but it seems to be that a learning ECU would work on a basis of past usage. So when you surprise it by pushing on the gas and that isnt something that is a normal occorance its not going to pour gas in because that isnt something you normally ask it to do. My thought on how they could program around this would be that the shift down button under the gas pedel could signal the ECU to ignore its learned behavier until the pedel is returned to a normal range.
Waiting to see how this turns out...
If the ECU is supposed to tune the engine to how you normally drive wouldnt leaning out the fuel for someone that drives very smoothly be normal? I'm a very smooth driver (except when a Mustang or Infiniti needs a lesson in what a Mercedes is) and my E55 has 22.8MPG over the last 3000 miles. My last 200+ mile trip it was up to 25.3mpg (trip) at best and was at 24.8MPG as I was backing it into the garage. I would think if you drive like this normally you cant expect to have the ECU be tuned for both high MPG type driving and high HP. Still even a "slow" E55 is a beast on the interstate, it has torque all over the range. It will be interesting if a new ECU has a software update that can make it be both but it seems to be that a learning ECU would work on a basis of past usage. So when you surprise it by pushing on the gas and that isnt something that is a normal occorance its not going to pour gas in because that isnt something you normally ask it to do. My thought on how they could program around this would be that the shift down button under the gas pedel could signal the ECU to ignore its learned behavier until the pedel is returned to a normal range.
Waiting to see how this turns out...
nothing happened just as expected the car didn't start so now i need to send both ecu's so they can copy vin information form my old unit unto new and I don't have another car to use so for now im stuck
I have sent both old and the new ECU to get them reprogrammed...
Here is the kicker; we had rain last night, when I was taken my ECU out today I noticed a drop of water on the ground , turned the ECU around and half of it is covered in water droplets like really bad condensation..
This must be what semi-fried my ECU.... How the heck did the water get in?

Now I know why my car was running extra rough when it was raining .......
I seriously do not think your ECU is the problem. Mine requires a reset after about a week and if not, the power drops off over time. The ECU would either work or it wouldn't. They are too complex to be slightly "out of tune". Water would not cause a power loss, it would cause a full failure.
If your car has "full" power after reset, your problem is not mechanical. If it loses power sooner than a week, I would then look for a bad sensor somewhere. Check fuel pressure, check injectors. Check out "wearable" or reasonably failing items. Something that would cause the ECU to go off of its aggressive factory tune quickly. Something out of whack but not enough to throw a code.
I seriously do not think your ECU is the problem. Mine requires a reset after about a week and if not, the power drops off over time. The ECU would either work or it wouldn't. They are too complex to be slightly "out of tune". Water would not cause a power loss, it would cause a full failure.
If your car has "full" power after reset, your problem is not mechanical. If it loses power sooner than a week, I would then look for a bad sensor somewhere. Check fuel pressure, check injectors. Check out "wearable" or reasonably failing items. Something that would cause the ECU to go off of its aggressive factory tune quickly. Something out of whack but not enough to throw a code.
I don't think the ECU is the problem, you've got something like I did that isn't far enough out of spec to throw a code but not just right either.
I almost bet im not the only one with water on the ECU, Check your ECU after the rain....











