I did and it notes going lean in high RPM conditions. You say you have changed the fuel pressure regulator, pump and, cleaned the injectors?

That being said, they did revise the software without citing concern for the lean conditions which implies a software fix without risk of damage to the engine.

The water on your ECU is not causing your problem (but I would not let water get on the ECU anyway).

If you are certain a lean condition does not exist, then I would suggest what you are doing and update the ECU with one beyond the affected dates.

 

I cleaned the injectors .. after the condition kicks in injector pulse goes narrow instead of wide at load, creating a lean condition. Injector pulse is controlled by the ECU

 

The original ECUs were superseded twice according to the latest EPC. Maybe you still have the early version?

 

Ok, I read all of your threads. I have some questions:

1. Have you verified your fuel pressure remains within acceptable range at high RPM and WOT?
2. Have you verified your converters are fine? If so, how?
3. Have you verified that your engine is all stock with the proper parts? injectors particularly?
4. Have you verified the lean condition with an exhaust analyzer or otherwise?

 

After the reset no lean condition exists at WOT , plenty of fuel verified by obd tool.
As far as converters go I do not know, but condition would exist even after the reset, would it not?
Engine looked all stock
Lean condition is verified by graphing o2 sensors output with Nitrod OBD2 tool, also verified by an independent mechanic that injector pulse goes narrow instead of going wide

 

Maybe an exhaust restriction?

 

UPDATE:
After purchasing a used matching ECU I had to get the new ECU to be programed with my VIN number in order to operate:
I have talked to OLiver at speed tuning and he said that that should be no problem
I sent my new (used) ECU and the original one in to SPEED Tuning USA and dealt with guys named OLIVER www.speedtuningusa.com
this guys made promised that he could either fix the original ECU or have vin information swapped from original one into the new one.
DO NOT DEAL WITH SPEED TUNING USA!!!!
First time I got the ECU back there was no change to either ECU's , problem still existed on the original one and new one would not start the car so i filed a charge-back with paypal and received money back,
Oliver called me right away and he said that he switched a wrong chip and he can do it right this time, so i trusted the guy and send both units back for another try: When it was time to get ECU's back OLIVER called me and said they would not accept credit cards this time but only Western Union or money order, so I had no choice and even after talking to their so called manager (Jenifer) with no help had to pay with a Money order which was a red flag there. Received both ECU's back , this time my new one would start the car but there was no gas input and the original one would not work at all. So once again I call and complain to the manager she promises that she will take care of it. Talked to Oliver and he said that my Used ECU is probably not working. So I sent the ECU'S now for the 3rd time. Oliver had the Nerve to try and charge me for shipping ECU's back. This time thank God my old one works but with no change and new one is back to not starting the vehicle. This time Oliver tells me that he doesn't have the right connectors to read the chips in my computer and that there is nothing that he can do
Im out $450 and now the "manager" Jenifer (If she is a manager) will not return my calls. I have left her numerous voice mails.
Avoid Speed Tuning USA!!!!!

 

I have secondary cats removed, looked clean..
Once again if it would be exhaust restriction it would not drive with full power after the reset would it?

 

Sorry to hear about your trouble. I have dealt with Oliver before. He has been around long enough to know what he can do and what he can not. I would file a small claims against them. I have been frustrated before with them.

I get the impression that they can flash and solder chips but not much else.

BTW, I have a Q1 ECU and it doesn't reduce performance sooner than about a week that's why I think there is something a little off with your mechanicals.

Something is driving your ECU down harder (faster) than a typical ECU. I would bet your ECU is identical to mine.

 

Mine is a q2,,and the new one that i tried to make work is a q3

 

Wow, I wish I read this sooner. I've had many similar problems, but haven't gone to the extent to figure it out. I've posted before how I have many codes being thrown out there. I replaced all but the fuel trim code, which I don't know what that is. CE light is still on and car still runs rough. Not sure that mine would be the ECU, but makes me wonder if I should bring this car to someone to get it looked at. I just don't want to spend $100 at the dealer to tell me exactly what advance auto parts could tell me.

Sorry, about what you've gone through..I know how it is...been there done that...makes me wonder sometimes why I bought another W210 E55. My other one was slugish too. I hate how these ECU's are. I hate having to take the time to reset..I just wish they would go when I step on it like american cars do

 

Ever wonder if you have bad gas or water in the gasoline? My two cents??

 

Well one way around this to get your power back is to put the car in the open loop mode.
Im doing it right now, I think this is safer than running lean when ecu acts up
You must do a battery disconnect and disconnect 2 front o2 sensors under the hood (very easy to get too) and now your constantly in the open loop, no more fuel trim corrections and most of my power is there. Next step would be to install a wideband and install some piggy back device and fine tune on the go..

 

+1 have you changed gasolines?

 

I don't get the open loop thing...how does it work? what do you do when the battery is disconneted and the O2 sensors are unplugged? Also, what do yuo mean install a wideband and a piggy back device. Explain please

 

Before you go unpluggingthe battery and doing this open loop thing...try run the car out off gas and refuel it with new fuel and change the filter. It just might work given the car is at the minimum 10 years old.

 

My filter has been changed within last 4000 miles

 

umm,, been there done that,, NEW filter put in last year, injectors flushed as well

 

Unplugging the battery will reset fuel trims, in my case it brings most of power back.
Unplugging the front o2's will make your car stay at open loop and no further adjustments to fuel trims will be applied,(ever)

Wideband o2 sensor will read the exact air/fuel mixture and with help of a piggy back of some sord ( usually some modification of signals coming in to the ecu, with such devices as Apexi SAFC controler) you can do your own tuning

But why don't you try just disconnection a battery for 30 min and drive the car and see if there is a difference in power first.

 

UPdate:
took my e55 to a drag strip https://mbworld.org/forums/w210-amg/...apy-times.html

 

I will try this. When you are saying to unplug the O2 sensors are you meaning to drive around for a period of time with them unplugged too?

Also, either for you amgalex or someone else reading this, I noticed if I step on the gas hard from stop and stay on it, say all the way to 80mph, the car lurches as if it hits a dead spot and a slit, for lack of a better term, backfire when it finally decides to go again.

It's really wierd. With high rpms and continually on WOT the car stops accel for a split second with hesitation and then continues. Any ideas on this? The only thing I haven't done to this car, which will come as soon as I can get the money together, are plugs, wires, and coils. Everything else is brand new.

 

Try doing the same type of acceleration runs, but instead of having the transmission in "D" Drive, start out in "4 th", this is sport mode for these cars and seems to have a more agressive drive profile.

 

what we are talking about has nothing to do with transmission

 

Just try it

 

I'll try it, can't hurt I guess.

I did disconnect the battery for about 30 sec. It seemed to run with more power as amgalex said it would. Later I unplugged the 2 O2 sensors as you said and did a quick run down the street. I didn't notice anything different from that. However I didn't accel like I said when I have the problem. I need to just haven't done it yet.

My check engine light is still on though. Not sure what to do about that.

I'll try putting it in 4 when I go out later and WOT