Crank Position Sensor
Crank Position Sensor
Hello, I've got an 01 E55 that died on me yesterday when idling in my driveway. It would crank but not start. After sitting for some time it started up as if there never was a problem. It did throw a check engine light however and today the same problem occurred. I took it to a small independent shop (not MBZ) and they read the code for me. It says that I have a bad crankshaft position sensor. So I read some on this and sounds like the repair is not difficult and as we have no MBZ dealer/repair for 170 miles I would like to attempt to fix this on my own. The problem is I can not locate the crank position sensor.
Can anyone describe where this is located on the engine?
Anyone have a DIY thread on this?
Thanks!
Can anyone describe where this is located on the engine?
Anyone have a DIY thread on this?
Thanks!
I just replaced mine a few months ago. It is tricky to get to but once you do it is an easy fix. If you reach your hand down the backside of the engine on the driver's side you find it.
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: MICHIGAN
2001 E55 - 2008 CLS63 -2016 F-150
http://www.autohausaz.com/mercedes-a...rts/index.html
best price i believe for OEM
check your old one if its very dirty might have some metal shavings but so cheap better off replacing and not worry bout it ..
best price i believe for OEM
check your old one if its very dirty might have some metal shavings but so cheap better off replacing and not worry bout it ..
I tried for like 4 hours to get to that stupid thing (not including cooling time)... After buying an E8 socket and everything. Finally said screw it, my time is worth more than this and paid the shop 1/2 hour labor to do it. Car works perfect now.
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Thanks for the help guys. I'll have a look when I get home tonight. Sounds like once I find it, I'll be ok. I just got through doing the 100k service including plugs and was feeling pretty good about myself.
Hopefully I can get this on my own as there is no MBZ shop (dealer or indy) for over 3 hours from me.
Hopefully I can get this on my own as there is no MBZ shop (dealer or indy) for over 3 hours from me.
Thanks for the help guys. I'll have a look when I get home tonight. Sounds like once I find it, I'll be ok. I just got through doing the 100k service including plugs and was feeling pretty good about myself.
Hopefully I can get this on my own as there is no MBZ shop (dealer or indy) for over 3 hours from me.
Hopefully I can get this on my own as there is no MBZ shop (dealer or indy) for over 3 hours from me.
way of the CPS. With your #8 torque drive socket, (use a long extension, with u-joint adapter if
possible) with your right arm over the top of the motor, guide the socket wrench with extension down
into the general area of the CPS (you will need to go in between some wires and hoses) now, with you
left hand / arm that is still behind the motor guide the end of the socket into the torque screw that is
holding the CPS into place. Be patient as you loosen the screw and be certain to keep the screw
from falling off after it has been completely loosened from the CPS / bell housing. The CPS should pull out snug, but still easily, then again with your left arm behind the motor put the new CPS into place, it should seat down in a position that will make threading the torque screw back in easy, again this is
all done blindly, with your left arm behind the motor, so be patient and make certain you get the screw back in and threaded properly. Lastly, when you have the old CPS out, be certain not to allow anything to fall into the bell housing. Good luck, hope this helps
Last edited by tsquare; May 4, 2011 at 01:51 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,073
Likes: 0
From: MICHIGAN
2001 E55 - 2008 CLS63 -2016 F-150
The CPS is a much easier job then plugs. Only you will do it by feel, not sight. Approach from passenger side of motor, with air box removed reach your left arm around back of motor on the top of the bell housing on the driver side, you will feel the CPS with wire plug attached. From the driver side you will be able to see the wire that attaches to the CPS, but not the CPS itself. Remove the plug from the CPS (with your left arm/hand still from the passanger side behind the motor) and place out of the
way of the CPS. With your #8 torque drive socket, (use a long extension, with u-joint adapter if
possible) with your right arm over the top of the motor, guide the socket wrench with extension down
into the general area of the CPS (you will need to go in between some wires and hoses) now, with you
left hand / arm that is still behind the motor guide the end of the socket into the torque screw that is
holding the CPS into place. Be patient as you loosen the screw and be certain to keep the screw
from falling off after it has been completely loosened from the CPS / bell housing. The CPS should pull out snug, but still easily, then again with your left arm behind the motor put the new CPS into place, it should seat down in a position that will make threading the torque screw back in easy, again this is
all done blindly, with your left arm behind the motor, so be patient and make certain you get the screw back in and threaded properly. Lastly, when you have the old CPS out, be certain not to allow anything to fall into the bell housing. Good luck, hope this helps
way of the CPS. With your #8 torque drive socket, (use a long extension, with u-joint adapter if
possible) with your right arm over the top of the motor, guide the socket wrench with extension down
into the general area of the CPS (you will need to go in between some wires and hoses) now, with you
left hand / arm that is still behind the motor guide the end of the socket into the torque screw that is
holding the CPS into place. Be patient as you loosen the screw and be certain to keep the screw
from falling off after it has been completely loosened from the CPS / bell housing. The CPS should pull out snug, but still easily, then again with your left arm behind the motor put the new CPS into place, it should seat down in a position that will make threading the torque screw back in easy, again this is
all done blindly, with your left arm behind the motor, so be patient and make certain you get the screw back in and threaded properly. Lastly, when you have the old CPS out, be certain not to allow anything to fall into the bell housing. Good luck, hope this helps
Damn thats badass technique
It's Alive!
Well, I finally got some time to tackle the CPS today. Spent roughly an hour, maybe even less. Car runs like a dream again!
Thanks to you folks another E55 is back on the road.
Thanks to you folks another E55 is back on the road.







