When do you know your front rotors need to be changed? My front pads have about 5-6K miles left. The rotors have developed a lip in the front and back of the rotor,I would say of about 2 inches. Their surface is smooth otherwise. Should I change them? I would like to get another run from them and just change the pads.
I don't think the ones I have are OEM's,they look aftermarket. I see the AMG OEM's are directional(left/right),I guess that probably explains why my car pulls a little to the side when I brake sudden from high speed.
I also want to do a brake flush. My mech told me he can bleed the brakes without a pressure bleeder. He said he'll just suck the fluid out of the master cylinder,then add new one and after bleed each wheel. He said he'll just use more fluid but it will work. I'm having doubts about this method.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.

 

How many miles does your car have? New E55 rotors are about $850 a set of four. Bleeding the brake the old fashion way is fine, that how they did it when they install my Brembo BBK on my E55.

 

I'm closing in on 160K miles!
I just want to do the front pads and rotors(if I can't use the rotors I have 1 more time). The rear pads and rotors are fine,I don't want to touch those. And do a brake flush.
I found front OEM rotors at about 250$ each,so 500$ plus 100$ for the OEM Jurid pads and about 20$ the 2 sensors.

 

I think it time to replace it if it the orginal rotors.

 

There's no way mine are original! They look aftermarket. Previous owner must have replaced them.

 

If they have a lip, they are probably getting too thin to resurface. I almost always get new rotors when changing pads. Buck up for the OEM rotors FYI: Autohausaz has the best price on OEM rotors. They are about $470 for the pair (plus pads)

 

+1

Check the rotor if OEM they will read AMG on the hub of the rotor. (I think right?) mine are also getting a lip, but pulsate when hard stopping 90-110 not good-

*everyone should stay away from aftermarket. They brake down fast from the heat, eventually getting warped. Costing you even more money to replace again w/OEM

Also check Akebono no brake dust w/a nice bite

Armani

 

Peter! wsup bud

 

I heard good things about Akebono too,but a smart mechanic taught me once : ' if pads don't make brake dust it means they're made from tougher material which makes them last longer,but the rotors take the beating,meaning the rotors wear out sooner.' To be honest I'd rather change pads more often than rotors,if you know what I mean...$$$$.
I'm looking at these OEM Jurid improved compound pads versus the regular OEM Jurid pads and I'm wondering if the improved ones don't wear out the rotors sooner...both sets sell for the same price at Autohausaz. Thoughts?
Thanks.

 

You have a smart mechanic this is 100% true mate.

i read good comments about akebono's like low dust and good stopping power but some peole tell it will be hot to brake propperly

Fabio Daniel

 

What suuupp!!! I missed my E55K, you never know what youre missing until it gone.

 

I just did the front brakes on my 00 model. It cost me $612.00 in parts and 2 hours of my time. I did not have to replace the sensors but its a easy job.

 

I just ordered everything. AMG OEM front rotors,sensors,OEM Jurid improved compound pads,Goodridge Phantom G-stop SS lines all around and brake fluid from the dealer to do a flush. I decided not to go with the Super Blue. I don't track my car.
I hope my brakes will improve a lot now!

 

A lip is normal wear. Change the rotor when its thickness (measured across the pad surface area, not the lip!) measures less than the service thickness spec. Otherwise they shouldn't need anything. There is a thread that has the spec. I would estimate factory rotors can go through 2-4 pad changes.

 

I went with a ceramic pad because I have had very good results on my autoX cars using these pads. They may not be the right pad for this car because of the weight. All of my AX cars were much lighter but the pads that were on my car produced huge amounts of dust and faded badly under heavy braking. So much so I couldn't keep the wheels clean. Now so far with the ceramics it been the normal amount of dusting and pretty good stopping but we will see after I track it one time just how good they work. .

 

Peter its been a long time! I still have the rotors I got from you on the 55.

 

Is there a DIY write up on the brake change? Nice to keep one at hand for future pads and disc change.

 

There is one in the C43 section, I know it is a different car but same brakes

 

I don't know if there is,but I'll try to do one when I change my brakes. Don't know the ETA yet,I'm still waiting on my pressure bleeder.

 

No worries. I can wait. Not changing my brakes right away any ways.

 

Here's the brake DIY!
Just download the PDF document.
Many thanks to Greg at Benzworld!


http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...-pictures.html

 

Oh ya.. I need rotors

Mine aren't to bad yet.... but once you hard stop going 80 steering wheel shaking all over the place.... front end strong like bull and wheel bearings good to go.

Time to bite the bullet- but the OEM pads are always the best way to go. I really hated washing my car and 2 hours later having filthy rims and the rest of the car was shinning

 

Great reading material I'll print it out and digest it on my way home from the train. Thanks

 

I got a solution for the brake dust issue.....paint your wheels matte gunmetal gray....that way no one will notice the dust and you will never have to clean your wheels again.