When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I was changing a few vacuum hoses around my intake manifold that were brittle. After replacing the vacuum hose between the left and right shut-off valves,I've touched the vacuum hose from under the air pump that connects the bottom of the intake manifold with the intake manifold pressure sensor as seen in the picture. The hose just disintegrated like it was made from rubber dust(161.000 miles so no surprise there!)
The problem is,I've been told over the phone by a mercedes mechanic friend,that has seen a few of these intake manifolds apart that the hose comes with the intake manifold itself and is glued on the inside of it with a special glue. He's saying he tried to reconnect that hose using silicon and different types of glue,but they never lasted,so he's afraid I'm going to need a new or used intake manifold that comes with that hose.
Is this true or does anyone know of a different efficient method?
I'd hate spending 1200$ on a new intake manifold for a stupid hose and if I get an used one,it might come with that hose already brittle,so I don't see the point...
Is that hose cracked or damaged from inside.......??
ZAYED,,
It broke at the entrance of the intake manifold,right where I thought Mercedes should have put a hose metal connector like they do at the top of the intake manifold. Instead they glued that hose on the inside of the intake manifold,which to me is a design flaw on Mercedes's part,because over time,hoses become brittle and need to be changed. They obviously realized their mistake in the newer models and changed that...
Oh...well...be careful guys not to mess with that hose or it's big $$$$$$$!!!
Thanks.
Thank you very much Zayed!
That might work,because my friend that opened a few of these,told me that the hose continues on the inside someplace and it doesn't start at the intake manifold exit.
Thank you very much Zayed!
That might work,because my friend that opened a few of these,told me that the hose continues on the inside someplace and it doesn't start at the intake manifold exit.
Here are some pictures of the inside of manifold.
In the first picture you can see where that hose comes through to the inside
This picture is just a little closer view
This part of the manifold plugs into that hose from the first two pictures
And a closer view
Looking at the manifold it appears these pieces will not get loose and into the engine so that is a good thing.
I'm thinking you can do like cm60k said and probably get by but I'm not a mechanic so I can't say for sure there wont be any vacuum leaks or problems. If I was going to attempt that I'd probably get a brass hose barb like this
In the first picture you can see where that hose comes through to the inside
This picture is just a little closer view
This part of the manifold plugs into that hose from the first two pictures
And a closer view
Looking at the manifold it appears these pieces will not get loose and into the engine so that is a good thing.
I'm thinking you can do like cm60k said and probably get by but I'm not a mechanic so I can't say for sure there wont be any vacuum leaks or problems. If I was going to attempt that I'd probably get a brass hose barb like this
and drill and tap some threads into the manifold as it would hold up better then glue.
Suicidal4life,I can't thank you enough for those pictures,they're like GOLD...GOLD I TELL YOU!!! It's like I've been blind and now I can see!
Thanks again!
"Gold" is right. These types of posts (w/ pictures) are what makes participation in the forum all the worth while. Neanicu - major thumbs up for the post, though I hate it you have this problem. Suicide - Nice support, bro.
2009 S550 AMG sport pckg. 2014 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrewcab
Originally Posted by suicidal4life
Here are some pictures of the inside of manifold.
In the first picture you can see where that hose comes through to the inside
This picture is just a little closer view
This part of the manifold plugs into that hose from the first two pictures
And a closer view
Looking at the manifold it appears these pieces will not get loose and into the engine so that is a good thing.
I'm thinking you can do like cm60k said and probably get by but I'm not a mechanic so I can't say for sure there wont be any vacuum leaks or problems. If I was going to attempt that I'd probably get a brass hose barb like this
and drill and tap some threads into the manifold as it would hold up better then glue.
Hey suicide4life. Im having the same problem right now on my intake manifold. I have the top and bottom apart but i cant get the inside part oit that has the tube nipple on it. How did you separate them?
Hey suicide4life. Im having the same problem right now on my intake manifold. I have the top and bottom apart but i cant get the inside part oit that has the tube nipple on it. How did you separate them?
The yellow brownish colored part that looks like oil dripping down in the above pic is actually some sort of sealant or glue. All of the ribs are fully glued but this pic only shows some of the remaining glue. I used a heat gun on outside of the manifold equal to where the glue would be on the inside to slowly loosen the glue. I also used a prybar to gently pry the pieces apart. It took a long time probably because I was being extra careful not to break anything. If you gently tap on the outside of the manifold where the glue is with the wooden handle of a hammer you can hear a difference where the glue is still adhering well and where it has broken free (solid vs hollow sound). I just continued to heat and pry and tap over and over slowly making progress until finally it came apart.
Last edited by suicidal4life; 05-15-2014 at 07:02 PM.
2009 S550 AMG sport pckg. 2014 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrewcab
Sweet it came off thank you! I thought i could rip the hose out and ended up breaking the nozzle. So i ordered a donor manifold which has the nozzle and hose and iam going to just transplant that piec into it. Im using grey high torque, oil resistan rtv to reseal it. I was told by a friend of mi e who works at the dealership to not try and reseal my valve covers and i cleaned the channels thoroughly and applied some of the gray stuff and no leaks anywhere! It turns very hard.
I had the same project on my CLK320, I have to say thank you to the previous write ups and I enjoyed reading the post as I worked on my car. Here is what I can contribute to the thread for future ventures that ever think of cleaning out their intake manifold body like I did. My project was in conjunction with the replacement of old cracked and dry rotten hoses. Anyhow if I was to do the whole thing again I would not mess with the lower hose that protrudes through the manifold I would of cut off the old hose as near to the metal assembly of the manifold as much as possible then I would of utilized the yellow Mercedes two male end joint (P/N: 116270929) which cost like $3.20 and some new hosing that can be easily procured for a very cheap price at AutoZone or any automotive store. To then join whatever remained of the old hose with new replacement hose and call the job good to good and road ready. In my case I was fortunate enough that my pack rat tendencies had saved an old grommet that worked perfectly to replace the original one that is incased into the manifold with that hose (hand illustration of MB part 0002760030) Item 56 on the Mercedes parts manual.
This is my intake manifold disassembled, dirty by my standards and prep for cleaning and the replacement of old cracked and dry rotten hoses.
MB Parts catalog demonstrating Item: 56 P/N 0002760030 which is said to be sold by the meter, but in actuality is a very specialized and unique looking due to the grommet assembly used to create an airtight seal in the manifold.
An illustration of the actual rubber hose assembly P/N 0002760030 with the preformed grommet that is inside the intake manifold and not visible.
pieces of the original hose and preformed grommet on the inside of the air intake manifold.
the replacement grommet I will use to compensate for the removed one.
This is my grommet and hose modification to solve issue of the completely removed hose without being able to find a suitable replacement since MB does not manufacture or sell the hose as shown in the hand drawing. The drawing was a depiction of the part as it was removed and installed inside the air intake manifold. So this work around works perfectly in my case. The grommet was from an old stereo installation kit, I'm sure any car stereo installation shop would have such a rubber grommet available.
This is the yellow two male fitting joint MB part P/N 1162760929. It is 4mm and will work perfect if you damage your hose and are able to cut it perfectly at the bottom of the manifold, as "cm60K" had said in his post. I would of used this technique had I not removed the original hose within the manifold. Of course I did that prior to reading all the warnings not to do such a thing and If I was doing the task again. It is a much better alternative to having to purchase a new intake manifold due to a cheap hose breaking.
Last edited by device2; 04-18-2016 at 07:40 PM.
Reason: multiple corrections :)
Hi,
A few years later but I just broke this same hose (#56).
My intake manifold (2004 C320) is such that the part of hose #56 that is inside the manifold is not accessible to put the 4mm double male end piece inside. Would this same idea work if I inserted the 4mm yellow joint from the outside and seal it with black RTV?
Also, any recommendations for a sealant/gasket maker to put the upper and lower manifold together?
Tricks for keeping the gaskets on the lower manifold in place while re-seating the manifold?
Lot's of question, I know. I'm stuck.
Thanks in advance.
I had the same project on my CLK320, I have to say thank you to the previous write ups and I enjoyed reading the post as I worked on my car. Here is what I can contribute to the thread for future ventures that ever think of cleaning out their intake manifold body like I did. My project was in conjunction with the replacement of old cracked and dry rotten hoses. Anyhow if I was to do the whole thing again I would not mess with the lower hose that protrudes through the manifold I would of cut off the old hose as near to the metal assembly of the manifold as much as possible then I would of utilized the yellow Mercedes two male end joint (P/N: 116270929) which cost like $3.20 and some new hosing that can be easily procured for a very cheap price at AutoZone or any automotive store. To then join whatever remained of the old hose with new replacement hose and call the job good to good and road ready. In my case I was fortunate enough that my pack rat tendencies had saved an old grommet that worked perfectly to replace the original one that is incased into the manifold with that hose (hand illustration of MB part 0002760030) Item 56 on the Mercedes parts manual.
This is my intake manifold disassembled, dirty by my standards and prep for cleaning and the replacement of old cracked and dry rotten hoses.
MB Parts catalog demonstrating Item: 56 P/N 0002760030 which is said to be sold by the meter, but in actuality is a very specialized and unique looking due to the grommet assembly used to create an airtight seal in the manifold.
An illustration of the actual rubber hose assembly P/N 0002760030 with the preformed grommet that is inside the intake manifold and not visible.
pieces of the original hose and preformed grommet on the inside of the air intake manifold.
the replacement grommet I will use to compensate for the removed one.
This is my grommet and hose modification to solve issue of the completely removed hose without being able to find a suitable replacement since MB does not manufacture or sell the hose as shown in the hand drawing. The drawing was a depiction of the part as it was removed and installed inside the air intake manifold. So this work around works perfectly in my case. The grommet was from an old stereo installation kit, I'm sure any car stereo installation shop would have such a rubber grommet available.
This is the yellow two male fitting joint MB part P/N 1162760929. It is 4mm and will work perfect if you damage your hose and are able to cut it perfectly at the bottom of the manifold, as "cm60K" had said in his post. I would of used this technique had I not removed the original hose within the manifold. Of course I did that prior to reading all the warnings not to do such a thing and If I was doing the task again. It is a much better alternative to having to purchase a new intake manifold due to a cheap hose breaking.
Hi,
A few years later but I just broke this same hose (#56).
My intake manifold (2004 C320) is such that the part of hose #56 that is inside the manifold is not accessible to put the 4mm double male end piece inside. Would this same idea work if I inserted the 4mm yellow joint from the outside and seal it with black RTV?
Also, any recommendations for a sealant/gasket maker to put the upper and lower manifold together?
Tricks for keeping the gaskets on the lower manifold in place while re-seating the manifold?
Lot's of question, I know. I'm stuck.
Thanks in advance.
Hi,
A few years later but I just broke this same hose (#56).
My intake manifold (2004 C320) is such that the part of hose #56 that is inside the manifold is not accessible to put the 4mm double male end piece inside. Would this same idea work if I inserted the 4mm yellow joint from the outside and seal it with black RTV?
Also, any recommendations for a sealant/gasket maker to put the upper and lower manifold together?
Tricks for keeping the gaskets on the lower manifold in place while re-seating the manifold?
Lot's of question, I know. I'm stuck.
Thanks in advance.
I had this issue a few years back chasing my P0170 turned out to be the hose #56 and the seal on my air intake manifold was compromised. I removed the manifold opened it cleaned the inside and resealed. Used a high temp oil resistant RTV for the hose yellow (male to male) and to seal the manifold. As for the intake manifold gasket, I used a couple zip ties to go through the bolt holes and secure the gasket to keep it seated. Did the inner two and filled bolts on the outer bolt holes which lined them up- not too tight. cut the zip ties and placed the remaining bolts. String could work here too.
In my case I removed and throughly cleaned my throttle body and replaced the TB gasket. Mine was brittle and barely there. Easier to replace that gasket while the manifold is out vs installed and trying to align the gasket on the car.
Buy enough length of that hose and replace all of the same size every where.
09-09-2012, 03:13 PM
Helpful info and similar project
and If I was doing the task again. It is a much better alternative to having to purchase a new intake manifold due to a cheap hose breaking.
