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I actually found a rent a lift garage here locally and it made the work so much easier to have her in the air. Taking my sweet time, both jobs took 2 hours each as a first timer. My inners were limp noodles. Outers had too much play. I was chasing a shimmy. The ride is softer after the bushing and the shimmy is all but gone after the rods. Too bad I put 6k mi on the new BS Pole S04 before realizing it was the tie rods. The tires are not perfect anymore with a slight hint of shimmy. Uppers and lowers control arms replaced last year.
I have been through a long rehabilitation since I got her. Systematically following the forums and doing all maintenance for her 90K.
I changed the four, rear, subframe support bushings yesterday. Unfortunately I broke the right side anti-roll bar drop link in the process. I'm going to replace both drop links tomorrow when they arrive.
I can't wait to drive it to see if I can feel a difference with the new bushings. I will write a more detailed post in a day or few.
86 190D (Exported to the Nerderlands), 87 300TD (Sold), 82 Ford F150 3spd, 99 E300D (RIP), 02 E55
Originally Posted by ddb
I changed the four, rear, subframe support bushings yesterday. Unfortunately I broke the right side anti-roll bar drop link in the process. I'm going to replace both drop links tomorrow when they arrive.
I can't wait to drive it to see if I can feel a difference with the new bushings. I will write a more detailed post in a day or few.
Wow!! Those bushings are worn out. I wonder what mine would look like down there I'll have to wait till spring for a job like that.
Wow!! Those bushings are worn out. I wonder what mine would look like down there I'll have to wait till spring for a job like that.
snoozie,
The picture is misleading in that the front bushings are destroyed during the removal process. When they are pulled out the center section breaks loose from the outer section. They are liquid filled like the motor mounts, so a nasty fluid runs out when they break apart. You then have to force the outer metal frame out.
The rear (larger) bushings come out whole and are usually in good shape. I replaced mine anyway since I was right at them.
The pics show the front bushing broken from the outer frame while being removed; then the outer frame being removed; and the two pieces of the old bushing next to the new bushing.
I changed the four, rear, subframe support bushings yesterday. Unfortunately I broke the right side anti-roll bar drop link in the process. I'm going to replace both drop links tomorrow when they arrive.
I can't wait to drive it to see if I can feel a difference with the new bushings. I will write a more detailed post in a day or few.
Are you going to replace the sway bar rubbers too while replacing the links?
Are you going to replace the sway bar rubbers too while replacing the links?
I probaby should, but no, not at this time. The only reason I'm changing the drop links is because I broke the one and figured I should replace them as a pair.
Normally I would order these type of parts online. Since I wanted them quickly I had my local dealer order them for me and he was able to get them overnight. I picked them up this morning and will install them this evening.
How does your car feel since doing the tie rod ends, bushings, and drop links?
I took it to the carwash to get the stelagtites off of it (snow/slush/ice/sand/salt) spent about half an hour in there, and it was dirty again by the time I got home... Shall be a fun winter.
I took it to the carwash to get the stelagtites off of it (snow/slush/ice/sand/salt) spent about half an hour in there, and it was dirty again by the time I got home... Shall be a fun winter.
Keep it out of the salt! My E55 had a very cancerous body after spending its life in the Midwest.
How does your car feel since doing the tie rod ends, bushings, and drop links?
Originally Posted by sick430
Any difference in ride quality with the new bushings?
I had a loose, clunking feel and sound going over speed bumps. After I replaced the bushings and links, the seams in the streets or bumps became much quieter. The body roll tighten as well. I wanted to try poly bushings but no company could confirm proper size without me getting underneath to measure bolt distance even for a universal fit, so went OEM. Drop links were tight! Bushing bolts were hard in and out. I should have replaced them but could not eat the $5 a bolt price at the dealer and could not get them online in time for the DIY. Brake cleaned the entire bar and it looked new again.
Still afterwards the car still pulled and shimmied. After the rods, the steering firmed up/reduced a little slack and the shimmy mostly went away. Overall it gets smoother, quieter and steering feels lighter especially after MB alignment.
...W210 E55 owners and drivers what they do to their cars daily....
This morning: I drove mine, like I stole it. Probably took off 2,000 miles of rear tire tread life, drifted a few times though several turns/curves, and exceeded the legal speed limit by at least 70 MPH.
Then, I changed cars and did similar things in my 44 year old Plymouth.
It is the holiday season....right?
This morning: I drove mine, like I stole it. Probably took off 2,000 miles of rear tire tread life, drifted a few times though several turns/curves, and exceeded the legal speed limit by at least 70 MPH. Then, I changed cars and did similar things in my 44 year old Plymouth. It is the holiday season....right?
Hahah nice! You mean, you safely went five under speed limit the entire time.
Two weeks ago, I replaced the spark plugs. It was easier than I thought, took 4 hours including cleaning and taking a few breaks. The car has 154,000kms ~(95,000 miles) the plugs are factory ones.
The passenger side was very very easy. however, the driver's side was A huge PITB very narrow -close to the firewall, I can't imagine diy'ing the mounts or a header install on that side
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One week ago I installed a double din HU. Bought the wood trim from Ebay.de for $120 incl. shipping.
bracket for $30 from ECS tuning.
Kenwood DNX890HD HU.
Job was easy, removing the old Bracket was the hardest part. you have to remove the center air vents, and lookout for hidden screws, wiggle the old bracket until it comes off.
Yesterday, I R&R the belt and the idler pulley.
I'm glad I changed the idler pulley, more than 5 fractures and was noisy as hell.
I know I don't need to remove the fan/shroud completely but I did it anyways. the room I had was worth all trouble.
I removed the fan from the clutch, as I didn't have the clutch tool. Re-installing the three bolts is the inconvenience part.
I had the belt diagram on my phone - saved my life. Installing the new belt was impossible, I tried putting it over the tensioner at first but it was very tight , tried the alternator the belt won't go over. I removed the new idler pulley, put the belt on top of it and re-installed the unit as a whole and it was a breeze
Two weeks ago, I replaced the spark plugs. It was easier than I thought, took 4 hours including cleaning and taking a few breaks. The car has 154,000kms ~(95,000 miles) the plugs are factory ones. The passenger side was very very easy. however, the driver's side was A huge PITB very narrow -close to the firewall, I can't imagine diy'ing the mounts or a header install on that side -------------------------------------------------------------------------- One week ago I installed a double din HU. Bought the wood trim from Ebay.de for $120 incl. shipping. bracket for $30 from ECS tuning. Kenwood DNX890HD HU. Job was easy, removing the old Bracket was the hardest part. you have to remove the center air vents, and lookout for hidden screws, wiggle the old bracket until it comes off. ---------------------------------------------------- Yesterday, I R&R the belt and the idler pulley. I'm glad I changed the idler pulley, more than 5 fractures and was noisy as hell. I know I don't need to remove the fan/shroud completely but I did it anyways. the room I had was worth all trouble. I removed the fan from the clutch, as I didn't have the clutch tool. Re-installing the three bolts is the inconvenience part. I had the belt diagram on my phone - saved my life. Installing the new belt was impossible, I tried putting it over the tensioner at first but it was very tight , tried the alternator the belt won't go over. I removed the new idler pulley, put the belt on top of it and re-installed the unit as a whole and it was a breeze Faiz
That double din looks good. Did you have to cut two wood trims to make one?
I need to do plugs as well. What brand did you use? Did you consider doing wires at the same time?
The double din unit looks fantastic. Were you able to utilize the OE NAV antenna or did you have to use one specifically for the new unit? I have the COMAND system but want to replace it with something that has modern features.
Two weeks ago, I replaced the spark plugs. It was easier than I thought, took 4 hours including cleaning and taking a few breaks. The car has 154,000kms ~(95,000 miles) the plugs are factory ones.
The passenger side was very very easy. however, the driver's side was A huge PITB very narrow -close to the firewall, I can't imagine diy'ing the mounts or a header install on that side
Yesterday, I R&R the belt and the idler pulley.
I'm glad I changed the idler pulley, more than 5 fractures and was noisy as hell.
I know I don't need to remove the fan/shroud completely but I did it anyways. the room I had was worth all trouble.
I removed the fan from the clutch, as I didn't have the clutch tool. Re-installing the three bolts is the inconvenience part.
I had the belt diagram on my phone - saved my life. Installing the new belt was impossible, I tried putting it over the tensioner at first but it was very tight , tried the alternator the belt won't go over. I removed the new idler pulley, put the belt on top of it and re-installed the unit as a whole and it was a breeze
Faiz
My breather covers were leaking down so I went ahead and replaced the valve cover gasket, all breather hoses and the sparks while there. With the valve covers out I had a lot more room but a 4" extension would of helped a bunch looking back especially with torquing the sparks.
ddb, I had under 100K so I went ahead and skipped the wires but will be an automatic next change. BOSCH 7422 is what I opted for.
Idler pulley and belt is probably my next project on the horizon. Isn't there another pulley right there as well to replace?
I need to do plugs as well. What brand did you use? Did you consider doing wires at the same time?
The double din unit looks fantastic. Were you able to utilize the OE NAV antenna or did you have to use one specifically for the new unit? I have the COMAND system but want to replace it with something that has modern features.
How many miles do you have? I don't think we have much choice when it comes to spark plugs, I bought Bosch plugs.
Regarding the wires I have only 94K miles which is not that much, wires will last for a long long time.
Thanks! I'm not sure about the factory antenna as I didn't have NAV.
This is the Kenwood GPS antenna :
I installed the antenna close to the windshield on the driver's side near the dash speakers.
The DNX890HD is amazing! Garmin maps (lifetime updates)+
Bluetooth + android + apple compatibility....
Only issue is loosing SWC and loosing Speedo dash display.
However, you can still retain the SWC using special adapters.
How many miles do you have? I don't think we have much choice when it comes to spark plugs, I bought Bosch plugs.
Regarding the wires I have only 94K miles which is not that much, wires will last for a long long time.
Thanks! I'm not sure about the factory antenna as I didn't have NAV.
This is the Kenwood GPS antenna :
I installed the antenna close to the windshield on the driver's side near the dash speakers.
The DNX890HD is amazing! Garmin maps (lifetime updates)+
Bluetooth + android + apple compatibility....
Only issue is loosing SWC and loosing Speedo dash display.
However, you can still retain the SWC using special adapters.
Good luck
I believe I've seen some other plugs available but I will probably go with Bosch as well. I have 70,000 miles so I'm not in a huge hurry to replace them. Then again, if there is anything to be gained from new plugs I rather have them sooner than later. I will probably change the wires at the same time so I won't have to go back snytime soon and work in that area.
That Kenwood sounds great. I will consider it when I'm ready to update mine. I believe the antenna on the back of the roof is my NAV antenna. If possible I will utlilze it on the new system. If not, no big deal. The COMAND sucks.
It was the new style tensioner installed a few years ago by the previous owner's dealership. I have the record of them installing the tensioner and a new belt not too many miles ago.
I was working on something else and noticed the chunk missing. It seemed to be working fine, but I didn't trust it. So I replaced it, the idler pulley, and put on a new belt. The old belt wasn't really old, but I like having a good emergency spare in the trunk.
I believe it was dropped or damaged before being installed by the dealer. Either they ignored it or didn't see it. It is also possible that the chunk fell out later.
11-25-2014, 02:23 PM
