*** A couple of thoughts on pulleys ***
I know that alot of people have a first instinct to increase boost and put a bigger pulley on the car to get more horsepower.
I thought I would throw out a couple of thoughts and summarize them into this 1 post since alot of these thoughts were scattered amongst different posts in the past...
1) The bigger the pulley, the more horsepower it takes to turn it, the more heat you generate. With these cars, it's the law of diminishing returns. It gets to a point where you actually waste more than you make in terms of power and the actual benefits become negligable.
2) This car is super sensitive to heat (as you've heard a 1,000 times).. The ECU's first order of business is to pull timing on you and if IAT continue to soar, you will end up with the compressor being shut down. Basically, I would summarize this thought by saying that the car with the bigger pulley WILL make more peak power BUT will get to use that power LESS than a guy with a stock pulley.
As an example: If you took a stock E55 and and put it against an E55 with a bigger pulley on a road course and had them run for 10 laps full-out, what do you think the outcome would be? The bigger pulley car would be ahead for the first 2 or 3 laps.. I bet you it would be heat soaked by then and the ECU would pull back timing and power and he would actually be slower than the stock car.
So, what's the point of having more peak power if it's only good for a couple of blasts?
3) On most cars when you want to increase boost on a supercharger, you usually would purchase a SUPERCHARGER pulley which would spin the supercharger faster and give you that increase in boost. On the E55, because the supercharger pulley is also combined with a clutch mechanism, tuners have to get around this by supplying a bigger CRANK pulley to spin the supercharger faster.. Well, guess what... The bigger CRANK pulley will also spin everything else on the belt faster also.. Water pump, alternator, etc.
The water pump and alternator (all driveline accessories basically) will be put under higher stress with the increased crank pulley. They will be more prone to failure and SOONER.
4) The ONLY tuner that I have seen provide a proper solution for a bigger pulley is EVO. For some reason they are the only ones who provide UNDERDRIVE pulleys for the water pump and alternator when you buy the bigger CRANK pulley to compensate for the driveline accessories being overspun. I mean, Brabus, Renntech, Kleemann, MKB, HPE.. You name it.. They all just provide the 1 pulley.
5) Let's have a little reality check here... Bear with me for a moment: Corvette C5, 5.7L, 350hp STOCK (305 - 311rwhp). Add magnuson Supercharger (similar roots style blower), *** 6psi BOOST!!! ***, 420RWHP - 440RWHP!!! I've seen them as high as 480RWHP with a blower CAM in the car!!!!
compare that to:
E55, 5.5L, 11.6PSI BOOST, TWIN-PLUG heads, 420RWHP!
Are you telling me that our cars are so inferiorly engineered that the engine in the E55 needs TWICE the boost to make the same power???? NO!! The only difference is the EFFICIENCY levels of the 2 cars.
------
Now, you want to do it right.... Take the time and make the car as efficient as you can and UNLOCK all the available horsepower that is already on the table before increasing boost.
We're talking about running 14 - 15PSI of boost on a bigger pulley.. 1 - 1.1BAR??? That is extremely high.. Do you guys have any idea what kind of power an efficient supercharged motor would put down with that kind of boost?? We should be talking 600RWHP here.. That is assuming that these blowers could move enough air to support that power, but that's for another discussion.
My opinion on modification order is:
1) Heat wrap and protect all the intake and other sensitive components to lower the heat soaking of the motor: Intake tubes, air boxes, spark plug wires, etc.
2) Increase the cooling capacity as much as you can by whatever means. Better coolant, better pumps, better fans, fuel coolers, trany coolers, oil coolers, etc, etc..
3) Increase the breathing ability of the motor.. Better headers, higher flowing exhaust, high flow cats, better intake system.
4) Retune ECU to maximize timing and properly set A/F maps to optimize power for the increases in efficiency.
5) Get a better intercooler system than the factory one that is sandwiched inbetween our superchargers and the engine block.. Worst design I've ever seen for a supercharger intercooler. (this is probably is not in the realm of possibility since the only one in existence is currently made by MKB and they want $15,000 for it... Well, there is the SLR style ones, but that's another thing altogether.)
6) Play with anything else you can think of to increase power without touching the pulley.
7) Once you've hit the proverbial horsepower wall, re-evaluate your position, and then if needed, put the bigger pulley on, retune the ECU and have a blast!!
These are my thoughts and I wanted to put them up for discussion...
Last edited by vrus; Sep 4, 2005 at 01:57 AM.
I know that alot of people have a first instinct to increase boost and put a bigger pulley on the car to get more horsepower.
I thought I would throw out a couple of thoughts and summarize them into this 1 post since alot of these thoughts were scattered amongst different posts in the past...
1) The bigger the pulley, the more horsepower it takes to turn it, the more heat you generate. With these cars, it's the law of diminishing returns. It gets to a point where you actually waste more than you make in terms of power and the actual benefits become negligable.
2) This car is super sensitive to heat (as you've heard a 1,000 times).. The ECU's first order of business is to pull timing on you and if IAT continue to soar, you will end up with the compressor being shut down. Basically, I would summarize this thought by saying that the car with the bigger pulley WILL make more peak power BUT will get to use that power LESS than a guy with a stock pulley.
As an example: If you took a stock E55 and and put it against an E55 with a bigger pulley on a road course and had them run for 10 laps full-out, what do you think the outcome would be? The bigger pulley car would be ahead for the first 2 or 3 laps.. I bet you it would be heat soaked by then and the ECU would pull back timing and power and he would actually be slower than the stock car.
So, what's the point of having more peak power if it's only good for a couple of blasts?
3) On most cars when you want to increase boost on a supercharger, you usually would purchase a SUPERCHARGER pulley which would spin the supercharger faster and give you that increase in boost. On the E55, because the supercharger pulley is also combined with a clutch mechanism, tuners have to get around this by supplying a bigger CRANK pulley to spin the supercharger faster.. Well, guess what... The bigger CRANK pulley will also spin everything else on the belt faster also.. Water pump, alternator, etc.
The water pump and alternator (all driveline accessories basically) will be put under higher stress with the increased crank pulley. They will be more prone to failure and SOONER.
4) The ONLY tuner that I have seen provide a proper solution for a bigger pulley is EVO. For some reason they are the only ones who provide UNDERDRIVE pulleys for the water pump and alternator when you buy the bigger CRANK pulley to compensate for the driveline accessories being overspun. I mean, Brabus, Renntech, Kleemann, MKB, HPE.. You name it.. They all just provide the 1 pulley.
5) Let's have a little reality check here... Bear with me for a moment: Corvette C5, 5.7L, 350hp STOCK (305 - 311rwhp). Add magnuson Supercharger (similar roots style blower), *** 6psi BOOST!!! ***, 420RWHP - 440RWHP!!! I've seen them as high as 480RWHP with a blower CAM in the car!!!!
compare that to:
E55, 5.5L, 11.6PSI BOOST, TWIN-PLUG heads, 420RWHP!
Are you telling me that our cars are so inferiorly engineered that the engine in the E55 needs TWICE the boost to make the same power???? NO!! The only difference is the EFFICIENCY levels of the 2 cars.
------
Now, you want to do it right.... Take the time and make the car as efficient as you can and UNLOCK all the available horsepower that is already on the table before increasing boost.
We're talking about running 14 - 15PSI of boost on a bigger pulley.. 1 - 1.1BAR??? That is extremely high.. Do you guys have any idea what kind of power an efficient supercharged motor would put down with that kind of boost?? We should be talking 600RWHP here.. That is assuming that these blowers could move enough air to support that power, but that's for another discussion.
My opinion on modification order is:
1) Heat wrap and protect all the intake and other sensitive components to lower the heat soaking of the motor: Intake tubes, air boxes, spark plug wires, etc.
2) Increase the cooling capacity as much as you can by whatever means. Better coolant, better pumps, better fans, fuel coolers, trany coolers, oil coolers, etc, etc..
3) Increase the breathing ability of the motor.. Better headers, higher flowing exhaust, high flow cats, better intake system.
4) Retune ECU to maximize timing and properly set A/F maps to optimize power for the increases in efficiency.
5) Get a better intercooler system than the factory one that is sandwiched inbetween our superchargers and the engine block.. Worst design I've ever seen for a supercharger intercooler. (this is probably is not in the realm of possibility since the only one in existence is currently made by MKB and they want $15,000 for it... Well, there is the SLR style ones, but that's another thing altogether.)
6) Play with anything else you can think of to increase power without touching the pulley.
7) Once you've hit the proverbial horsepower wall, re-evaluate your position, and then if needed, put the bigger pulley on, retune the ECU and have a blast!!
These are my thoughts and I wanted to put them up for discussion...
I would like to measure IAT pre intercooler and post this will tell us what kind of job the intercooler is doing. Lets kick this idea around.
I would like to measure IAT pre intercooler and post this will tell us what kind of job the intercooler is doing. Lets kick this idea around.
I took into account the compression ratio of the engine.. The FINAL compression ratio on the E55 is still higher:
Final Compression Ratio = ((Boost / 14.7) + 1) * Compression Ratio
C5: ((6 / 14.7) + 1) * 10.1 = 14.22 : 1
E55: ((11.6 / 14.7) +1) * 9 = 16.10 : 1
I believe that there is more power to be gained by lowering static compression and raising boost compared to raising static compression and lowering boost so we are still in a better situation.
Our engines are just very low on the efficiency chain I think..
I agree with you on the IAT. Would love do some testing pre & post supercharger that would tell us how efficient it really is.
I have been searching for a vendor that sells pyrometers and displays.. I wanted something that takes 4 pyrometer inputs and displays the results (I need 4 in order to accomodate water injection testing). ANDIAL sells a 2 unit system they use to measure pre & post intercooler temps.
I may end up getting the ANDIAL unit if I cant find anything else.
That one thing has been in the back of my mind for a while. I appreciate your input.
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I think it all goes back to intercooler efficiency. Thank you Cory for bringing up the pressure drop that also plays a critical role.
Last edited by rflow306; Sep 4, 2005 at 12:35 PM.
On a side note- It's not uncommon to see poor dyno results with these cars- modified or stock. The majority of dyno shops in this country will never be able to simulate 180 MPH worth of airflow over the car. Without this airflow, successive dyno runs will net in huge losses to heat build up- I can guarantee this. I've seen very poor Dyno results on modified E55's, only to have them run 11.9's on street tires, compared to 12.4's stock. Sometimes, it's not all in the Dyno numbers, but the actual performance of a car on the track.
On a side note- It's not uncommon to see poor dyno results with these cars- modified or stock. The majority of dyno shops in this country will never be able to simulate 180 MPH worth of airflow over the car. Without this airflow, successive dyno runs will net in huge losses to heat build up- I can guarantee this. I've seen very poor Dyno results on modified E55's, only to have them run 11.9's on street tires, compared to 12.4's stock. Sometimes, it's not all in the Dyno numbers, but the actual performance of a car on the track.
Hey Cory what does a c55 or clk 55 make with 6 pounds of boost to the rear wheels ?
Hey Cory what does a c55 or clk 55 make with 6 pounds of boost to the rear wheels ?
Hey Cory what does a c55 or clk 55 make with 6 pounds of boost to the rear wheels ?
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c55-amg-w203/116837-kleemann-55k-s7-update-pictures-dyno.html
Mez
These engines have two different design philosophies. The E55's engine was designed to produce torque down low to propel a heavy car, the opposite of the LS1. Also, the cylinder head on the LS1 can flow amazing amounts of air. It responds well to all upper RPM mods. In its stock configuration, it can support well over 500 NA HP. This, coupled with the more aggressive cam, will push the torque peak higher, but will result in a somewhat narrower power band. I've never seen any info published about the E55"s head, but I suspect it has small ports to keep the intake charge velocity high for good low-end torque.
I'm not sure what your comment on low efficiency means. Are you referring to volumetric efficiency (the amount of air an engine can ingest compared to its swept volume), or thermal efficiency (the amount of power an engine produces compared to the amount of fuel it consumes)? Please elaborate.
In general, I think you're putting too much emphasis on peak HP. This should only be applied to pure race cars that operate near max RPMs the majority of the time. I think your emphasis should be focused on the amount of area under the torque curve. This is what truely makes a street car perform the best. But, if my suspicions are correct, I think you may be getting close to an air flow limitation in the heads and/or camshaft. Are there any MB tuners out there who actually mod engines and have flowed the heads? Does anyone know the cam specs?
Clk 55
Baumuster engine type. .
AMG-built SOCH 24 valve 90 degree V-8. High-pressure die-cast alloy cylinder block. Alloy cylinder heads. Reinforced crankshaft and valve-train. Lightweight camshafts. displacement. . 5.5 L
bore. . 3.82 in
stroke. . 3.82 in
compression ratio. . 11.0:1
output. . 362 hp @ 5,750 rpm
torque. . 376 lb-ft @ 4,000 rpm
valve gear. . Belt-driven SOHC, 3 valves per cylinder.
redline. . 6,700 rpm
E55
Baumuster 211.076
engine
type. .
90 degree V-8, high-pressure die-cast alloy cylinder block, alloy heads.
displacement. . 5.5 L
bore. . 3.82 in
stroke. . 3.62 in
compression ratio. . 9.0:1
output. . 469 hp @ 6,100 rpm
torque. . 516 lb-ft. @ 2,650 - 4,500 rpm
valve gear. . Belt-driven SOHC, 3 valves per cylinder.
redline. . 6,500 rpm
On a side note- It's not uncommon to see poor dyno results with these cars- modified or stock. The majority of dyno shops in this country will never be able to simulate 180 MPH worth of airflow over the car. Without this airflow, successive dyno runs will net in huge losses to heat build up- I can guarantee this. I've seen very poor Dyno results on modified E55's, only to have them run 11.9's on street tires, compared to 12.4's stock. Sometimes, it's not all in the Dyno numbers, but the actual performance of a car on the track.
Cory is the man
The LSx family of engines are in everything from the C5 to 3/4 ton trucks. The GTO came out in 2004 with the LS1 engine in it and it's curb weight isn't far off from the E55. The LS6 is in the CTS-V Caddy, too. I think they tip the scales around 3900lbs.
Here is the stock dyno from my Z06 - 2003 Z06 dyno chart.
And here is a great set of graphs showing an LS6 on boost - all 3 blowers The first set of numbers (blue) are a 2003 Z06 with an ATI blower @ 7psi and LG headers. The second set (red) is a 2003 Z06 with a Magnussen @ 9psi, cam and Kooks long tube headers. The third set (green) is my 2003 Z06 with a Vortech @ 6psi and LG headers.
The point? The blower design makes more difference in the power curve than the basic engine characteristics. The Maggie, which is a roots-type blower, makes it's power down low and drops off up top, where the centrifugal blowers really start making power (ATI and Vortech).
And even though these engines make great power on just 6-7psi, they don't last long with boost. Hypereutectic pistons, high compression and boost just don't mix
Most of us know were have ticking time bombs and it's just a matter of time before we pop a couple of pistons 
An E55K motor, designed to be blown will last forever (well, within reason).

Any chance you can do 3 pulls on a dynojet and share the results with us?
Thanks for posting. Was trying to locate a couple for comparison.






