W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

Has anyone done the pulley swap at home?

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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 12:40 PM
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SL65 AMG
Has anyone done the pulley swap at home?

I was wondering if any one here has done the pulley swap at home? If so how hard is it to do? Do you need a puller?
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 06E55
I was wondering if any one here has done the pulley swap at home? If so how hard is it to do? Do you need a puller?
I like to tinker with cars, but I would never attempt this at home. That is the one thing I think you should let a qualified shop install for you (the crank pulley I mean).. One small mistake and you could possibly kiss your engine good bye.
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 01:27 PM
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Without getting into ANY specifics.....there was a guy who tried it at home....crank key..SNNNAAPPP..right off. I believe it was a 20K fix.....20K!!

Unless you have the full Snap On Tool set and lots of experience.....have a shop do it.
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 01:59 PM
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Like Victor and JAK have already stated, this is not for the feignt of heart. Most harmonic balancer remove/replace require both a puller and an installer. Then there's the issue of removing/replacing the big-*** nut that holds it on with whole bunches of torque. You will have to lock down the transmission flexplate to do it. Just getting access to it can be a b!tch. Even if you have the tools, but haven't done one before - don't do it.
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 03:15 PM
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I am sure you are all right. Do you think an MB tech would be able to do this with out a problem?
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 01:27 PM
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Any more input on this? Has anybody done the mods themselves? Pulleys etc? Does the pulley take a 3 jaw or is it a 3/4 bolt puller? Im just now starting to do the research on modding my car.I havent decided what company to buy the parts from yet,but I'd like to know how hard it is too do the work myself first.Its not matter of moeny but more of convenience to me,if I need to take the car to the dealer,I'd like to be able to put it back to stock at a momence time.Not wait until I can get it back to a shop to uninstall.

I'll just head out to the garage and take a look see here myself.

The search feature on this board seems to be slow,btw.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Jrocket
Any more input on this? Has anybody done the mods themselves? Pulleys etc? Does the pulley take a 3 jaw or is it a 3/4 bolt puller? Im just now starting to do the research on modding my car.I havent decided what company to buy the parts from yet,but I'd like to know how hard it is too do the work myself first.Its not matter of moeny but more of convenience to me,if I need to take the car to the dealer,I'd like to be able to put it back to stock at a momence time.Not wait until I can get it back to a shop to uninstall.

I'll just head out to the garage and take a look see here myself.

The search feature on this board seems to be slow,btw.
The typical puller i think is to big you would need the Mercedes puller.
When I installed mine we used a big pipe wrench the kind with the chain on the end, got a piece of an old 8 rib belt and wrapped it around the crank pulley. Then wrapped the chain around the pulley and while i held the engine my friend loosened the balancer bolt. To remove the pulley we used two very large screw drivers to pry gently back and forth until it slid out. I put some oil on the crank snout, aligned the new pulley assembly with the key way and slid it back in. Per the tuners instructions you need a new bolt and there is a special torque sequence which needs to be followed. I also added some blue loctite for extra measure. The one thing i did have access to was a lift. On jack stands at home this job would be an absolute nightmare.

Like everyone said if you are not willing to deal with any unforeseen problems have it professionally installed and they will be responsible if anything goes wrong.

Last edited by rflow306; Jun 17, 2006 at 03:04 PM.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 03:44 PM
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05 ML-500 , 03 CLK5.5 AMG has left the Garage
Harmonic balancer / pulley remover & installers

Try these guys for your needed special tools. Go to mercedes list of tools
www.elpasotools.com They have a holder and a torque angle gauge . Needed to hold the Balancer & retorque the big nut properly ___PTE___
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by rflow306
The typical puller i think is to big you would need the Mercedes puller.
When I installed mine we used a big pipe wrench the kind with the chain on the end, got a piece of an old 8 rib belt and wrapped it around the crank pulley. Then wrapped the chain around the pulley and while i held the engine my friend loosened the balancer bolt. To remove the pulley we used two very large screw drivers to pry gently back and forth until it slid out. I put some oil on the crank snout, aligned the new pulley assembly with the key way and slid it back in. Per the tuners instructions you need a new bolt and there is a special torque sequence which needs to be followed. I also added some blue loctite for extra measure. The one thing i did have access to was a lift. On jack stands at home this job would be an absolute nightmare.

Like everyone said if you are not willing to deal with any unforeseen problems have it professionally installed and they will be responsible if anything goes wrong.
The closest tuner too me that Im aware of would be Evosport,which seem to have a good rep on here so i might go with them doing the work.BUT I do have a rack here to put the car on along with an exstensive set of tools and some mechanical ability to do my own work.I do the majority of all of my motor work (turbo/nitrous) and mods to all of my vehicles,but this is my first Mercedes so Im doing alot of searches here on the boards and the internet as well to make sure things go smooth.Thanks for the help,its always appreciated on this end.

PTE,thanks for the link.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 07:13 PM
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I did it. Wasn't very hard. You don't need a puller, it's keyed not pressed. I didn't (probaly foolishly) torque the bolt back to spec, just used some locktite and got it as tight as i could.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by MikaelSS
I did it. Wasn't very hard. You don't need a puller, it's keyed not pressed. I didn't (probaly foolishly) torque the bolt back to spec, just used some locktite and got it as tight as i could.
Its has a keyed crank snout?Thats good news right there.Sounds easy enough.

Do all of the manufactures have the same pulley sizes?Do they all change the same pulleys?I thought I read somewhere that some dont change all of the engines pulleys and some do.Correct or not?
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 09:38 PM
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I think everybody claim's +2psi, and if you make the crank pulley bigger you have to make the water pump smaller so it will fit.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Jakpro1
Without getting into ANY specifics.....there was a guy who tried it at home....crank key..SNNNAAPPP..right off. I believe it was a 20K fix.....20K!!

Unless you have the full Snap On Tool set and lots of experience.....have a shop do it.
Oh come on give the specifics!! Let's re-live that one again LOL!!
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 01:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Jrocket
The closest tuner too me that Im aware of would be Evosport,which seem to have a good rep on here so i might go with them doing the work.BUT I do have a rack here to put the car on along with an exstensive set of tools and some mechanical ability to do my own work.I do the majority of all of my motor work (turbo/nitrous) and mods to all of my vehicles,but this is my first Mercedes so Im doing alot of searches here on the boards and the internet as well to make sure things go smooth.Thanks for the help,its always appreciated on this end.

PTE,thanks for the link.
You should be able to handle it then with out a problem, good luck.
If i'm not mistaken the standard kleemann, renntech and evo crank pulleys are the same diameter. The asp and the hennessey are larger.

I did it. Wasn't very hard. You don't need a puller, it's keyed not pressed. I didn't (probaly foolishly) torque the bolt back to spec, just used some locktite and got it as tight as i could
I don't think you will have a problem just re-check every once in a while just to be safe. I followed the procedure and i still check it every once an while. Set the torque wrench to 150 ft-lbs and it should click instantly. I think loctite is also your safest bet. Just my two cents.

Last edited by rflow306; Jun 18, 2006 at 01:46 AM.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 01:50 AM
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The big question is,do I get the ecu done as well or just install the pulleys.If i get the ecu done and need to take it in for service work,they are going to see it has been flashed by an aftermarket company.That could cause some problems.I need to check into that more before I do the mods.More searches coming up.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 02:07 AM
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With just a pulley installed, you should be OK. Take the car to a dyno to check your A/F ratio after the install. They tend to run a little rich in open-loop mode from the factory so there should be some margin. If you go with headers in the future, the ECU update will be needed.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 02:12 AM
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Too bad these car arent capable of being tuned liked the GM ECU's are,such as LS1edit and HPtuners for example.Sure would make things alot easier.

Will these companys sell just the pulleys alone,i would assume so but havent seen any prices for just the pulleys?
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Jrocket
Too bad these car arent capable of being tuned liked the GM ECU's are,such as LS1edit and HPtuners for example.Sure would make things alot easier.
I wish that were the case i would buy any one of those piggybacks in a heartbeat.
Will these companys sell just the pulleys alone,i would assume so but havent seen any prices for just the pulleys?
I don't know about klee, renntech or evo but asp only sells the pulley. Like grummpy said check your afr's to be sure but you should not have a problem.

Last edited by rflow306; Jun 18, 2006 at 09:31 AM.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by rflow306


I don't know about klee, renntech or evo but asp only sells the pulley. Like grummpy said check your afr's to be sure but you should not have a problem.
How are they checking the afr's on these cars? Are the unplugging the o2's and tapping there with a meter or do they pick up the signal straight from a diag point for the ecu? I would think only a shop can do this? If its as simple as unplugging one of the o2 sensors and getting a reading from there then I can do that.

Any idea?
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Jrocket
Will these companys sell just the pulleys alone,i would assume so but havent seen any prices for just the pulleys?
If you plan on going further than a pulley, check out their entire packages. You could mix and match but I don’t know how they would handle support when working with other manufacturer’s stuff when you needed it. I wonder if there might be some finger pointing when hp claims aren’t met.

I’ve found the ASP pulley set for $800 plus shipping.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Jrocket
How are they checking the afr's on these cars? Are the unplugging the o2's and tapping there with a meter or do they pick up the signal straight from a diag point for the ecu? I would think only a shop can do this? If its as simple as unplugging one of the o2 sensors and getting a reading from there then I can do that.

Any idea?
They stick a wideband O2 sensor into the tailpipe.
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 08:38 AM
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I am getting ASP pullies...would any MB dealer would be able to change them for ME ???
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