Will do ASAP.

 

I absolutely agree with this statement. Let's see why. You've said:

- Water injection is effective at controlling cylinder presures,but it's not worth it because it will fail and cause your engine to blow.
- It requires daily maintenance and is not suitable for someone who has money to spend.
- It's a band-aid for improperly tuned or built engines.
- It works but it's not suitable for street cars.

With this assortment of thoughts, it's not hard to see why I couldn't discern your point. But fortunately, you cleared it up with your next statement.

After a water injection system is properly installed and set up, the only maintenance it requires is periodic replenishing of the injection mixture. So in essence, you're saying that E55 owners don't have the skillset to open their hoods and pour some water. Thanks for clearing that up.

Water injection is an established technology that works and has proven so for many decades. The current generation of kits have enough sophistication and safety features to make them easy to use and adjust, as well as safe. One has to wonder what your motivation is for dissing water injection in this thread. Perhaps your signature provides a clue.

 

I would have to agree, but for a different reason. I have the snow system on my track car, but my E55 is totally stock. While I go through the ritual of double checking all hose clamps, bushings, joints, belts, on my track car, it is really nice to just put gas in the E55 and be able to outrun 99.9% of all cars on the road without any hassle.

 

Grumpy,

I was wondering the same thing about Vadim's statement...All I **think** I need to do after proper install is to pour fluid in it. If I spent $1000 for 10rwhp I think its pretty darn good considering cams give me 15rwhp for $4500+ install.

water injection as you know has been around since WWII -- 75 years.

 

This thread is awesome....very interesting. Curious of the outcome...that is all

 

My statement about 55 owners is not about them not being able do certain things, it is all about convinience.

The main reason they bought 55 is to have MB reliability with KILLLER power, that does not require opening hood and checking fluid level of a container or looking for a green LED.

I know water/methanol injection works, my grandfather used to be a tank mechanic during WWII. I found first mention of it in his diaries. They used it on tanks with some sucess.

 

Agreed, I am learning from all the posts as well. I know about 1% what Grumpy, Victor and Vadim know. I am just in search of more power.

 

If that statement were really true, I am picturing you to be laying in your own feces and trying to jam your drool covered finger into an electrical socket.

Give yourself some credit. You obviously have made it pretty far to be owning one of these cars.

 

I hear ya...I meant 1% of auto knowledge specifically -- probably more like 10%. It seems like a lot of the folks that know the most are perhaps engineers by trade. I know nada about thermodynaics, chemistry, etc. I have 3 masters degrees but in econ, math, and a MBA...I just meant to say I am no authority on autos but a student. Its very fortuanate to have folks like Vadim, Grumppy, Ted, Victor on the forums.

 

I glossed over this comment the first time I read this post. There are two problems with injecting the water/methanol mixture at this location, since this is upstream of the S/C:

1) With the corrosive nature of methanol, you really don't want to inject it into the compressor.

2) At this point in the intake flow, the air stream is fairly cool. The cooling effect from vaporization will have minimum impact. It's better to inject after the air has been heated by the compressor. Since the Y-manifold is difficult to reach, you may have to T the injector line and inject into both intake manifolds.

 

Whats great is when both parties make perfect sense....I'll read one and say "oh yeah that makes perfect sense" then I'll read the next and say "****, the other makes perfect sense also".......Good points on both ends.

I've considered this as a future mod to my car and really appreciate whats available for info hear. Keep it up!

 

Grumpy thanks again for the comments. I am having the kit set up to enter the intake and not via the blower. Should be complete tomororw. I will post pics when complete of the stealth install location.

 

Absolutely! I missed that too. If possible, inject into both intake manifolds or each cylinder.

 

The easiest way to do it, is to remove surge tanks (aluminum manifolds with AMG logo) and simply tap into the back of them. This is what we did on C32.

 

after all this, why not just inject some nitrous and really pick up some power......

 

For sure.

 

Is nitrous really safe on those cars ???

 

I don't think it would be safe to run NOS w/ an aftermarket ECU, I could be wrong but I don't know anyone doing it.

I got my car back today....gotta do a dyno in 1-2 weeks though. I had the setup to run post S/C and had a boost and IAT gauge installed...all steath...I am using for diagnositics not for visibility or show...will post pics this weekend.

IATs are running 15F over ambient while the car is moving > 25mph (off boost, no methly/h20)...once the car comes to a stop it goes up to 20-25F above in 5 seconds...

 

Geez...I ran my buddy's 996TT -- he won't tell me what mods he has -- but he has to have ALOT. He only told me he ran lower than 11.50 and better than 125mph...he races for $$ so he keeps it top secret.

I ran him 4 times. 3 times I manged to actually drive an auto like SH*T and was in the wrong gear...unbelievable. I was too busy with f-ing with my camcorder....ok I know I am dumb to race & record simultaneously...even on empty roads...

one race from 20-100mph, I manged to start in 2nd gear...I got beat by 5-6 cars ....all upfront (got on video)....the only good run when I ran the right gear was from 60-110mph and he got me by 1.5 cars.

When i hit the methly freakin my car hesitated...check engine light came on about 2 miles later...I assume it was a misfire ...CEL light went off after 50 miles....URGGGG. not tuned correctly...HEADACHE!!!!

 

The CEL was probably short term fuel trim. If you can pull codes, it's still in there for you to see. Make sure your injection pressure is high enough (>100 psi). You might want to back off a little on percent injected until you can edit your fuel tables to account for the injection mixture. I would suggest about 10% as a starting point - IOW, 10% methanol/water and 90% fuel/air.

 

Grumpy, thanks for the info...I will pull the codes with my scanner and post...

also pics here--->

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/154058-pics-boost-iat-20lb-battery-methly-h20-kit-cut-outs-etc.html

 

So is the jury still out on the water/meth injection?

Can someone tell me if it will drop IAT's or increase octane or both?

If it will drop IAT's - how much can you typically expect?

Aquamist 2d system looks like its got plenty of +ve's...

 

The jury is still out for me, frankly I have not had the time or energy to try to get this system tuned. I ran it for the first time in about 6 months. When it sprayed I noticed the IATs when down a bit but when I came to a stop light the car was idling all rich and rough, it felt like ****. I would not recommend anyone to go this route if you are looking for HP unless you have a lot of patience and cycles to tune it properly.

 

I don't know but I am seriously thinking of tryin the Coolingmist kit, anyone care to chime in? According to my tech this will help a lot....

 

I've mentioned this a few times.. you have to look at these injection kits as a means of cooling and not for HP. Dont bother injectin methanol. Unless you want to custom tune the ECU to take advantage of it ( which I can do for you if you really want), its a waste..

Fill the reservoir with 100% distilled water. Use a small jet size. Also, because you bought a kit which is not 3D mappable like mine is, it sprays constant volume across the whole RPM band which is another problem.

The kit I put together and that is being installed in my car has an ECU which watches injector pulse and ensures a constant water to fuel ratio across the entire RPM band (the amount of water needed at 2,500RPM is vastly different than what is needed at 6,000RPM).