Self Oil Change ??? Need Help !!!
I had already planned to change my oil today, and proceeded to do so this afternoon. Thanks to Mr. Rotary Lift in my garage, accessibility is a non-issue.
I also have the luxury of time required to let the engine oil drain completely. Here's the process I follow. First, remove the oil filler cap. Next, unscrew the oil filter cap assembly enough to let the oil drain from the filter housing back down into the block. Then remove the oil filter assembly. Once those steps are done, the car is ready to go up into the air.
Once up, you remove the two rearward engine shields, exposing both the rear and front drain plugs. I drain the rear main pan first, and I let warm oil (always change the oil after it's warmed up) drain until it stops dripping (approximately 10 - 15 minutes). Then I install a new drain plug with copper washer and torque it to the specified torque. Then I remove the front drain plug and watch as easily close to another quart drains out. That's right, it's not just a few ounces, it's alot. Next time, for grins, I might measure it to be precise about the amount, but it's way more than a few ounces. Once the front drain stops dripping, it too gets a new plug and washer torqued to specification. The drain plugs have a sealant coating on the threads; there is no risk of causing leaks by replacing drain plugs - again, bad information. You will get a leak if you strip the threads on the pan, but just changing the drain plug isn't going to cause wear that will result in a leak; that's nonsense.
Then you simply reinstall the engine shields, lower the car, install a new oil filter and replace the 4 rubber Orings on the filter holder shaft and torque oil filter cap assembly to specification. Lastly, fill the engine with 8.75 qts. of the specified Mobil 1 of the proper viscosity. Then start it up and let it idle for a minute or so, and shut it off. Wait about five minutes, and then get out the factory oil dipstick tool and add just enough oil to bring it up to the specified reading on the tool (this step usually uses up most of the remaining .25 qts. remaining out of the called for 9 qts. with a filter replacement), but the dipstick tool is more precise than the dash readout. Replace the dipstick hole cover, close the hood, and you're good to go, knowing you didn't leave nearly a quart of old oil in the forward area of the pan, that the filter, drain plugs, and other fasteners are torqued to the correct specification and that there aren't any other issues underneath the car, because you gave it the once-over while you were allowing the old oil to fully drain.
Exactly my method except i let both drain holes drain for about an hour while i'm doing other things. Also i use magnetic drain plugs, as well as this handy oil funnel that screws in like an oil cap, has a huge capacity. As far as the oil filter cap remover, you can get the B type from vatozone for $4.99 & it works perfectly.




GRAFH: Where did you get that neat funnel from?
Some after thoughts - get one of these at your local autoparts store:

It will help remove the filter housing easily. I suggest wrapping a small towel around the housing first so as to not scratch it. When you get it loose to hand loosen it, unscrew it just enough until you hear the oil draining out. Once you can't hear any more (30 seconds), then you can remove it. This way you won't spill any oil.
Also, about 1/2-3/4 qt came out of the front pan. It's a tight fit with the wrench, so have some patience.
Other than that, all the other info in this thread is good enough to get it done.
Last edited by komp55; Sep 29, 2008 at 06:51 AM.

Last edited by str8ridin; Sep 28, 2008 at 12:47 AM.
I just measured it. It's exactly 1/2 a quart or 16 oz according to the bottle that I put it back in.
At least, that is what came out of mine this morning after letting it sit for .5 an hour. Nevertheless, worth it to drain imo. Thanks for your write up... followed it again today and it helped.
And BTW, for those reading this thread and about to change the oil yourself, the prices of oil seemd to go up! Walmart had my Mobil 1 0W40 for $6.97 a quart! My total cost of oil/plugs/filter was $95+! Makes me wonder what the dealer is charging now...
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
What in the world?
MB approved oil
Last edited by Yacht Master; Apr 24, 2009 at 10:09 PM.
I do not want to clear my trip odometer this time, is there a trick (i.e. hit reset quickly, hold reset, etc)
Thanks.....
BTW, the title of this thread made me laugh out loud.
Maybe I have a twisted mind, but still...
Thank you very much for your post.
The drain plug at the front of your E 63 AMG engine is not convenient for draining the oil. Following the service instructions on the E 63 AMG, only the drain plug in the oil pan at the back of the engine is appropriate for draining the oil. Extracting through the dip stick is not possible either. A nearly complete emptying is guaranteed while your engine is at operating state temperature. A possible remaining quantity in the front area is negligible.
We hope this information finds you helpful.
Best regards,
AMG Private Lounge Team
Todd
i am planning to use mobil1 or redline trans oil and for engine the same... is that good choice? filter/cabin filters/gas filter/sparks and wires from dealer?!
I think some people had problems with Redline for the trani, do a search. I used royal purple in my gearbox and its done wonders. Not sure if they offer a product for auto transmissions. Many people use Mobil 1 engine oil on this board, BMW recommends 5W-30 synthetic.



