Underhood cooling
#1
Underhood cooling
I can't believe how sealed up the underhood area is...short of chopping up the hood pad and plastic...has anyone come up with a clean way to eliminate underhood heat. Trying to blow it all out the underside is futile and a bad design. This car is still warm in the MORNING !!!
#2
Based on past discussions, it appears the various engine panels are designed to first direct the airflow across the heat exchangers before it is channeled to flow across the exaust manifolds while the car is in motion. If you remove or modify any of them, you'll probably disrrupt the in-motion cooling efficiency, which is on the edge of being adequate. Victor (vrus) was researching this at one time. You might want to shoot him A PM if he doesn't chime in here.
#7
I did some checking under the car but decided to leave the bottom panels alone.. They cover and protect the alternator (which is very close to the ground) and other parts of the car. If those panels are removed the components that are low mounted will be exposed to the elements..
Saying all that.. The engine temp was lower with the rearward tray removed. It allowed alot of heat to escape while the car was stationary. Didnt notice any adverse affects of highspeed stability. If it wasnt for the rain and elements I would have left the tray off.
I never had a chance to figure out if cutting out holes/perforations in the panel helped. That might be something to try.. Leave the panel in place but cutout openings in areas where there are no engine components exposed.
Saying all that.. The engine temp was lower with the rearward tray removed. It allowed alot of heat to escape while the car was stationary. Didnt notice any adverse affects of highspeed stability. If it wasnt for the rain and elements I would have left the tray off.
I never had a chance to figure out if cutting out holes/perforations in the panel helped. That might be something to try.. Leave the panel in place but cutout openings in areas where there are no engine components exposed.
Originally Posted by Grumpy666
Based on past discussions, it appears the various engine panels are designed to first direct the airflow across the heat exchangers before it is channeled to flow across the exaust manifolds while the car is in motion. If you remove or modify any of them, you'll probably disrrupt the in-motion cooling efficiency, which is on the edge of being adequate. Victor (vrus) was researching this at one time. You might want to shoot him A PM if he doesn't chime in here.
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#8
Rafal,
Ok.. Out with it.. spill... How did you do this? Can I ship you my car and have you do it to mine?
I really wanted this done to my hood but I havent found anyone who is brave enough to do it to my car yet.
Details please.
Ok.. Out with it.. spill... How did you do this? Can I ship you my car and have you do it to mine?
I really wanted this done to my hood but I havent found anyone who is brave enough to do it to my car yet.
Details please.
Originally Posted by Rafal
Great mod, I did mine with a hack saw...
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 3
From: Sydney, Australia
2017 S63 Coupe Iridium Silver
Originally Posted by vrus
Rafal,
Ok.. Out with it.. spill... How did you do this? Can I ship you my car and have you do it to mine?
I really wanted this done to my hood but I havent found anyone who is brave enough to do it to my car yet.
Details please.
Ok.. Out with it.. spill... How did you do this? Can I ship you my car and have you do it to mine?
I really wanted this done to my hood but I havent found anyone who is brave enough to do it to my car yet.
Details please.
Seeing as this seems to be the going rate among "my fellow E55 tuners" :
$5000 each, minimum group buy 15. Advice only, $4500 each
#10
Uggh.. And the details on how it was done?
Originally Posted by Rafal
Seeing as this seems to be the going rate among "my fellow E55 tuners" :
$5000 each, minimum group buy 15. Advice only, $4500 each
$5000 each, minimum group buy 15. Advice only, $4500 each
#12
Real or not it looks good ! I'm sure you west coasters can find an old school hot rod shop that has a louvering press !! I am pretty sure rule of thumb used to be 100 bucks a louver !!! AMG should have done this !
#13
Originally Posted by Rafal
Seeing as this seems to be the going rate among "my fellow E55 tuners" :
$5000 each, minimum group buy 15. Advice only, $4500 each
$5000 each, minimum group buy 15. Advice only, $4500 each
LOL!!! Dude, you kill me!!
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,224
Likes: 6
From: S.E. FLA.
05 ML-500 , 03 CLK5.5 AMG has left the Garage
Hood Louvers
About $1700.00 . includes Paint. If you would like closeups . I'll post more pic's. There is srceen in the louvers to keep the sticks & stones out. No water issues to date. Rflow has seen them in person ___PTE___
#16
Originally Posted by vader
Cloeseups please ! Which way do you have the louvers pointing ? To pull air in or let air out ?
One other consideration is you'll have to remove the hood insulation around the louvers location. This will expose that section of paint to higher temperatures. It might not be a problem, but it's something to think about.
#17
Originally Posted by Grumpy666
I would have the openings facing rearward, which should help the airflow over the hood in venting the air above the engine. Whether this helps with cooling while you're driving is questionable, but it will help when you're stationary (that hot air rises convection thing).
#18
Originally Posted by Grumpy666
When the car is in motion, that section of the hood is a low-pressure area (if you look at the front of the car in profile, it resembles an airfoil - flat on the bottom, gently curved on top). Plus, the uderhood area is in high pressure from the ramming effect of the air through the frontal openings. There won't be any appreciable air entering the louvers. But they will be effective vents, both in motion and standing still. I would have the openings facing rearward, which should help the airflow over the hood in venting the air above the engine. Whether this helps with cooling while you're driving is questionable, but it will help when you're stationary (that hot air rises convection thing).
One other consideration is you'll have to remove the hood insulation around the louvers location. This will expose that section of paint to higher temperatures. It might not be a problem, but it's something to think about.
One other consideration is you'll have to remove the hood insulation around the louvers location. This will expose that section of paint to higher temperatures. It might not be a problem, but it's something to think about.
I'd be too scared to cut metal like that, but I'd love the look and the added cooling.
#19
Originally Posted by vader
At speed I would think there is sufficient incoming air thru the grill/front opening to push quite a bit of air thru those louvers no ?
Sounds like a good project for you, Bob.
Or, if you don't want to do it, we can always put it on Victor's To-Do list.
#20
Originally Posted by Grumpy666
Yes, and coupled with the low pressure above the hood, flow is further increased. But, how much of the air flowing out the louvers comes from the air flowing into the top of the engine bay? So, are you actually removing heat from the engine, or are you providing a flow path for the incoming air? Probably the only way to find out is to place thermocouples at the front of the engine bay and at bottom of the louvers and see if there's any difference.
Sounds like a good project for you, Bob.
Or, if you don't want to do it, we can always put it on Victor's To-Do list.
Sounds like a good project for you, Bob.
Or, if you don't want to do it, we can always put it on Victor's To-Do list.
#21
Yeah I'm thinking Victor needs something to do...besides..I can't find my can opener. I would never have the stones to cut into that pretty hood anyway !! Wish there was a simpler way...MB had their mind set on sealing it off under there pretty good.
#22
There's a software program that allows one to "map" the pressure over the front of a vehicle (or anything else) at varying speeds. A bunch of diesel guys went through this excersize about a year ago and were able to narrow down the EXACT area of the hood that needed to be louvered in order to have the lowest pressure outside and draw out as much underhood heat as possible. Some other guys backed this up by taping pressure sensors onto the hood in various places and driving around. There's some name for the device they used but I can't remember it. It sounded expensive.
#23
Originally Posted by vader
Yeah I'm thinking Victor needs something to do...besides..I can't find my can opener. I would never have the stones to cut into that pretty hood anyway !! Wish there was a simpler way...MB had their mind set on sealing it off under there pretty good.
C'mon, Bob, don't be such a Girly-Man. Grow some stones. Measure twice - cut once.
I think MB realized the limitations of the cooling system and configured the engine bay to direct as much airflow across the exhaust manifolds as possible. They are the major source of heat under the hood.
#24
Originally Posted by GTA23109a
There's a software program that allows one to "map" the pressure over the front of a vehicle (or anything else) at varying speeds. A bunch of diesel guys went through this excersize about a year ago and were able to narrow down the EXACT area of the hood that needed to be louvered in order to have the lowest pressure outside and draw out as much underhood heat as possible. Some other guys backed this up by taping pressure sensors onto the hood in various places and driving around. There's some name for the device they used but I can't remember it. It sounded expensive.