vrus

Ok guys.. Jig is done.. Below is a pic of the completed jig and the prototype 3" system I used as the starting point.

All of the 304 stainless material arrived from Burns Stainless this morning so the welder will get to it either tomorrow or Tuesday morning.. With the long weekend it will be hard to get any work done so the exhaust will be ready next week!!!!!! I can't wait to see it.

The 304 stainless is ligher than the 321 and once we ceramic coat it, it will be very durable!!



Thanks dude!!

newton22

Damn, those are straight!! And that would actually fit the underpanel of the E55? Should provide great flow. Why don't you just work for AMG?

vrus

Yup! My car is missing about 30rwhp and 35rwtq right now. I am running the STOCK exhaust with all 4 cats in place and just cant get the car to put the power out that it was doing before when I had the 3" exhaust shown below on the car.

Now that it will be redone in 2.75" I am dying to see how it performs.. We decided we are going to use 2 x 200cell cats and not 100cell to start with. Stock cats are 400cell count and there are 4 of them so this should greatly improve flow and not cause any "strong fuel smell out of the tail pipe issues".

Work for AMG huh??? Hmm..... Mess around with SL65 and SLR all day.. That would really be fun!!!

jparch

victor, that thing is going to flow like crazy, can't wait to see it

vrus

Hey John! Thanks buddy!

Since your car is stock, we are gonna have to get one made for you and do a before/after dyno on a stock car and see what this thing will do!!

I'll get you a really good deal on it too if we can use your car as the test mule!!

MNG

that looks HOT...

i've seen some of the products that came out of the place VRUS is getting the work done at... TOP NOTCH QUALITY is all i can say..

KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK VIC... you have a great team of guys working on these projects !!!!

MACHC5

Hi Vic,

From looks of the exhaust pictures... I'm going to need one of those to go with the 80MM T/Body.
So... with that said add me into the loop for an exhaust.

I'm just wondering about shipping a system to N.J.


MachC5

egxpimp

Vic you are insane ! I swear you have tons of mods going into your E55...This/TB/ CF intake..... does your wife on all your creations ?!

vrus

Thanks buddy!! When you get tired of your 230 and want an E55, I'll have all the go-fast goodies "recipies" sitting on a shelf waiting for you.. LOL..

hahahaha.. So true.. You can't just stop at TB or CF intake.. I mean.. You've improved the intake side, now you gotta push that air out the other end.. Nice free flowing exhaust only makes sense...

Just make sure I dont get any late night calls from your significant other giving me hell for being a "bad influence".. I've already got a few people in that category.. Their wives/GFs tell them to stay away from me... LOL..

Thanks! I'm on a mission.. Didn't you read my sig?? Looking for 700 baby!!

kaneman

Oh dear gawd, how much is THIS gonna cost???

vrus

hahahahah.. Don't worry.. Its gonna be in my favourite ballpark.. Around $2,400 shipped anywhere in the U ... S... of A...

vrus

Here it is boys.. Its almost done!!!!

BTW, my buddy is great at making exhaust, but he lacks some photography skills, so please excuse the blurry pics..

For this first one, I told him not to make the removeable cats.. I just asked for a full welded piece... I decided that once the first one is complete, whoever wants one can decide how they want the exhaust configured.. At that point I'll ask him to give me a price on that configuration and within 3 or 4 days he'll have it built!!

Isn't it pretty??

ChicagoX

It will be a shame to hide that beautiful thing under our cars.....

vrus

Well.. What will make me happy is if it works half as good as it looks.. LOL...

Install & dyno scheduled for next week..

chiromikey

are you going to do a pre and post dyno run? seems like the obvious thing to do, especially since many of us are still waiting to see what kind of results the tb made but i needed to ask.

vrus

I always try to do that.. I went on the dyno twice already trying to get the car to register peak power. Its still showing A/F below 10:1 after 4,000 RPM so I cant get a proper run. And, since my TB install, which definitely feels alot stronger and has a much harder pull on the highway, it leaned out the bottom end a little bit more.

I need to resolve my tuning issues before I can supply any dyno #'s otherwise they will be meaningless... I am hoping some of the others can jump in and provide before/after dynos for the TB unless I get this straightened out sooner.

For the exhaust, I will do a before/after dyno on my car and just see if I can register the differences for comparison. I am also trying to get it installed on a stock car and do a before/after also.

I may still be having trouble because of the recall updates.. Even though the car was reflashed, some people are telling me that they are still down 40 - 50hp on the dyno even though they had a reprogram done (which is exactly where I am at)... Too many variables right now that my numbers are all over the place and have no meaning.

Grumpy666

Have you checked boost levels across the RPM range?

vrus

The only way I can capture is using the datalogger but it isnt precise enough to be meaningful.. I ordered a boost gauge a while ago, but, Dakota Digital hasnt shipped it to me yet so I dont have a good tool right now.

I think I might know the problem. When I dumped the Evans coolant, I replaced it with water & a bottle of water wetter. It might be the water boiling over and not being an effective cooling agent while the car is stationary?? I do know that the car hasnt cut the supercharger on me, so I am puzzled by that part, but on the dyno I did see something wierd:

The reservoir tank that holds the fluid for the intercooler foamed up and shot out what looked like soapy liquid all over underside of hood... When I talked to a friend of mine he said the Watter Wetter was like a soap substance so that may have caused the foam..

I have to drain the water out again (I used regular water at the time) and put distilled water & rad coolant in 50/50 mix this time.. Hopefully that will raise the boiling point much higher and the problem will resolve itself..

What do you think?

Grumpy666

It's highly unlikely that the cooling fluid is getting hot enought to boil. This is evidenced by the S/C not disengaging. I think it's more likely that the IC pump is cavitating, which is causing the surfactant to foam. Are you sure that you bled it completely? Do you ever check the fluid level? You may have a leak, which is allowing air to enter.

BTW - my query about boost level was in reference to your upper RPM A/F ratio.

Edit - Forgot to add this: a 50/50 mixture of water/rad coolant is less effective at cooling than water only. You really only need it in winter to prevent freezing.

vrus

This whole cooling system has been such a pain in the rear.. I am not losing any fluid.. The reservoir is always at the same level and i never add fluid so it isnt leaking..

I know that water & water wetter is better for absorbing heat than rad coolant mixture, but, I was told to change it because water alone boils at a lower temperature and also because it supposedly can rust certain parts if used by itself.?????

It didnt make much sense to me either, but, I am not sure what else it could be.. Where would the air be coming from to make it do that? If there was a hole somewhere to allow air in, by logic, it should allow fluid out also.

Any ideas on what I can do to check for an air leak?

Thanks!

Grumpy666

One way is to do a leak-down test. Drain the system and pressurize it with compressed air. After the air source is removed, it should hold pressure if there are no leaks. If there is a leak, I would first look at the fittings around the pump and heat exchangers. With air pressure applied, you can squirt soapy water on them - they'll bubble if there's a leak.

Another way is to do the opposite. Hook up a vacuum pump and put the system in a partial vacuum. When the pump is closed off, the partial vacuum should hold. If it doesn't, re-apply the pump and squirt small amounts of solvent on the fittings. If the fitting is leaky, the vacuum will fluctuate. This method is more difficult and will take a lot longer since you won't get much of a vacuum until the system is done out-gassing.

I'm not very intimate with your IC system, and there have been conflicting descriptions on this forum. Is there some sort of pressure valve between the IC system and the reservoir (similar to a radiator cap)? Does the radiator still share the reservoir with the Evo upgrade? If it blows *** on the dyno, don't you think it also does it when you drive it hard? Does that lost fluid get replenished from the radiator fluid in the reservoir? Is there a way to check fluid level other than the reservoir?

Based on what you've posted, I would guess that your system is low on fluid. Have you checked IAT recently? If it's getting hotter, that could be the cause of your low A/F ratio up top. In addition to pulling timing, the ECU could aslo be adding fuel to keep exhaust gas temperatures from rising due to a leaner air/fuel mixture.

vrus

Talked to one of the shops I deal with.. They are going to do the leak test for me and make sure the system is free of air... Thanks for your input! Hoepfully that's what the problem is.. I am going to do another datalog tomorrow morning.. I havent done one for a while because SC wasnt cutting so I figured IAT was ok.

vrus

Almost done.. Just needs to finish off the H-pipe connector in the morning and then it is ready to be installed !!!!!!

Some pics of the new, and some of the old & new side by side... You can barely see the difference in pipe diameter between the old 3" and the new 2.75"..

NitrogenBalance

Ba ba ba bad-***. I wish you drove a C43. So very impressed.

If you don't mind, where did you get your high flow cats? Thats pretty much what I'm looking for in terms of 200cel cats.

Keep up the good work

pshek

Very cool pictures. I'm doing something similar to my car. Going to change the exhaust to 2.5" stainless from the 'less than 2" diameter' exhaust thats currently on my car. Why did you remove the horizontal pipe between the two downpipes (the one with the X)?

My project will be to change the exhaust to 2.5" stainless, delete primary cats, replace secondary cats with high flow cats, add an X-pipe, and remove the spare tire well for real quad tip exhausts. I already have a set of shorty headers being made for my built motor by Josh at HOP, which have larger primary tubes compared to the rest on the market. After seeing a $3500 Kleeman V8 header last week, I wasn't impressed by the size of the primary tubes. They're small and dinky looking (I could have wrapped my thumb and index finger around them easily).